So my old 83 GL is dying whenever I stop in traffic.

It's got a manual trans.

A recent valve adjustment.

Starts up just when you touch the key in the morning.

The previous owner put plugs, wires, cap and rotor in to sell it. (though I'm not liking the missmatched wires)

I'm thinking of replacing the crusty looking coil (and the wires). It always seems to miss and the tach is constantly jumpimg around,...and it's just all rusted and crusty, time for a new one.

And definitely the fuel filter/s this weekend.

I'm thinking the fuel filter is the main problem, causing too much restriction at idle. The car sat for a long time and now I'm pounding it around in the dirt so there is proly alot of crud getting stirred up in the tank.

 

But anyway, are there any things that I'm missing?

Maybe something that is the most common cause on these cars for this?

It just started doing this this past weekend on the way home from the RallyCross.

Other than that it runs like it always did.

But is sometimes hard to restart.

 

I'm gonna go ahead with the normal obvious stuff.

Any words of wisdom would rock.

The tach jumping around is a sure sign of worn distributer. I would suggest finding a good j/y unit to install and rebuild/have yours rebuilt.

 

And for the crud in the tank, run it low on fuel and drain the tank. There is a 12mm bolt in the tank for draining, you could also get a smallish can of fuel and fluch it out while doing this. Then replace both fuel filters, one front one in back.

I had the same problem with my Brat a few months ago where it would die as soon as I pushed the clutch in. First thing I did was run to walmart and buy the biggest can of Carb cleaner they had and gave it a good long bath. Had my dad run it outside by the throttle and I just kept it running inside. Turns out some trash had gotten stuck down in it and it ran fine after that.

Drain the tank, clean it out with some fresh gas and then drain it again, then put some more gas in it (brand new) and drive it like your being chased by satan dressed as a drag queen... (i made that one up) and then see how she does!

Thanks!

 

I'll look into the disributor.

 

And clean out the tank.

 

Ran a bunch of cleaner through the carb when I bought it but it could need it again if anything got in.

drive it like your being chased by satan dressed as a drag queen...

 

 

Quote of the day!!

could be a sticky choke, would explain it starting fine when cold then dieing at idle when hot, either way enough carb cleaner should do the trick.

 

croak

Also if carb has an "anti diesel solenoid", basicly a solenoid that raised the idle speed while key is "on" and then allows it to drop when engine is turned off to prevent "run on"or "diesling" vey common on early 70's on up carbs, i thnk my 80 wagon had on. If it fails(can check with ohmemter) your car will die at "idle" becasue the idle is too low. Made obsolete by FI in later years.

could be a sticky choke, would explain it starting fine when cold then dieing at idle when hot, either way enough carb cleaner should do the trick.

 

croak

 

I'll check that.

It does seem to be more of a problem once its warmed up a bit.

I noticed it also will not do it if I can let of the gas and coast for a few seconds before pushing in the clutch. Then it's fine.

Guess I just need to really look into an underhood overhaul and freshen everything up. 305,000+ miles, it's about time.

Also if carb has an "anti diesel solenoid", basicly a solenoid that raised the idle speed while key is "on" and then allows it to drop when engine is turned off to prevent "run on"or "diesling" vey common on early 70's on up carbs, i thnk my 80 wagon had on. If it fails(can check with ohmemter) your car will die at "idle" becasue the idle is too low. Made obsolete by FI in later years.

 

Thanks.

I'll look into that as well.

 

Looks like I have a busy night ahead of me.

Instead of Carb cleaner, use Marvels Mystery Oil.

 

Keep the can of carb cleaner and use it to look for vacuum leaks.

 

-Brian

Instead of Carb cleaner, use Marvels Mystery Oil.

 

Keep the can of carb cleaner and use it to look for vacuum leaks.

 

-Brian

 

Always hear about the stuff but never tried it.

Maybe I'll have to give it a go.

Theres a trick to it.

 

Start the car and let it warm up. Then when your under the hood, use the throttle linkage on the carburator and rev the motor to about 2000-2500 rpm and pour the MMO straight into the carb.

 

DONT DO THIS IN THE GARAGE!! You may not even want to do it in your own neigborhood as HUGE PLUMES OF WHITE/BLUE SMOKE will billow out your tailpipe. I have smokescreened entire blocks with this stuff... but its for the good of the car, so dont let that bother you.

 

Anyhow, as soon as you pour it into the carb, the car will start to choke itself out, keep it running using the throttle linkage. You pour until the car starts to choke and then stop the pour. Let the car burn through all the crap and then repeat.

 

If the carburator is REALLY bad, use a piece of cardboard or a rag and with the motor revved, stuff the cardboard over the throttle body and attempt to kill the car... but dont let it die. As soon as its about to die, remove the cardboard and rev the car back to life. This will create a huge ammount of vacuum in the carburator itself and suck most of anything thats clogging the jets through.

 

I used to do this to every EA81 i had right after purchase, and its always a night & day difference afterwards.

 

-Brian

 

p.s.

Seafoam is also good stuff, but not as easy to find as the MMO

 

 

If the carburator is REALLY bad, use a piece of cardboard or a rag and with the motor revved, stuff the cardboard over the throttle body and attempt to kill the car... but dont let it die. As soon as its about to die, remove the cardboard and rev the car back to life. This will create a huge ammount of vacuum in the carburator itself and suck most of anything thats clogging the jets through.

 

 

-Brian

 

 

I have had to do this with my hand before in a parking lot. Believe me it sucks alot of crap through this way and I had a perfect outline of a Weber on my hand for about an hour.

Yeah, ive done it with my hand too, but i forgot to warn in my previous post. Be careful cause it's a possibility the enigne will backfire, and if it backfires through the carb you just lost an eyebrow (at the least).

 

So keep your head clear, and protect your hand with a glove or at least a rag of some sort.

 

-Brian

Yeah, ive done it with my hand too, but i forgot to warn in my previous post. Be careful cause it's a possibility the enigne will backfire, and if it backfires through the carb you just lost an eyebrow (at the least).

 

So keep your head clear, and protect your hand with a glove or at least a rag of some sort.

 

-Brian

+ a billion, I know a guy who almost got killed doing just this.

 

NOT that his scenario is a likely one, but it is a DISTINCT possiblity... at LEAST as real as the chances of pulling out onto the freeway and getting killed. In other words, don't be scared; but be aware.

Theres a trick to it.

 

Start the car and let it warm up. Then when your under the hood, use the throttle linkage on the carburator and rev the motor to about 2000-2500 rpm and pour the MMO straight into the carb.

 

DONT DO THIS IN THE GARAGE!! You may not even want to do it in your own neigborhood as HUGE PLUMES OF WHITE/BLUE SMOKE will billow out your tailpipe. I have smokescreened entire blocks with this stuff... but its for the good of the car, so dont let that bother you.

 

Anyhow, as soon as you pour it into the carb, the car will start to choke itself out, keep it running using the throttle linkage. You pour until the car starts to choke and then stop the pour. Let the car burn through all the crap and then repeat.

 

If the carburator is REALLY bad, use a piece of cardboard or a rag and with the motor revved, stuff the cardboard over the throttle body and attempt to kill the car... but dont let it die. As soon as its about to die, remove the cardboard and rev the car back to life. This will create a huge ammount of vacuum in the carburator itself and suck most of anything thats clogging the jets through.

 

I used to do this to every EA81 i had right after purchase, and its always a night & day difference afterwards.

 

-Brian

 

p.s.

Seafoam is also good stuff, but not as easy to find as the MMO

 

 

Huge plumes of smoke?! Sounds like my old RX7 (which I still need to rebuild but thats another forum).

My neighbours are used to it. And I live out in the country so they are far enough away.

 

I'll try that. (both methods)

I found my idle screw was backed out as well, the spring is not good or something and it's super easy to wiggle/turn. So I'll look for a better spring. Just readjusting the idle has already helped, it was seeming like it was lowering itself over time. (always the thing you least suspect)

Everything else on the carb checked out good. (choke, anti diesel, ect.)

 

And yeah I'll stick with the cardboard. I know all about backfires and I'm not about to get in ones way.

 

The parts store in sandy has the Seafoam, but not MMO (out of stock). So I guess I'll give that a try, heard good stuff about it too.

I just need to really look into an underhood overhaul and freshen everything up. 305,000+ miles, it's about time.

Its just getting broken in!!! oh and the carb backfires can be flaming!!! just dont stare down through your carb, and wear saftey glasses, not regular glasses but actual saftey glasses!!! if it somehow burns your hare, your eyes will be safe.

Yep

Jumpy Tach = worn distributor bushings - easy fix take to auto electrician

Stalling at idle = usually junk in idle fuel circuit on carby. Either try the MMO as suggested or pull carby apart clean and rebuild. Check the vacuum operation of al components and check the throttle shaft on the carby is not loose this can contribute to a changing idle.

 

We all been here before - oh an probably not the coil either

Yep

Jumpy Tach = worn distributor bushings - easy fix take to auto electrician

Stalling at idle = usually junk in idle fuel circuit on carby. Either try the MMO as suggested or pull carby apart clean and rebuild. Check the vacuum operation of al components and check the throttle shaft on the carby is not loose this can contribute to a changing idle.

 

We all been here before - oh an probably not the coil either

 

 

Yeah the coil is fine, I was just going over anything that could be it.

My tach and misses were caused by the dist, about 1/8 inch play.

I picked one up from a u-pull it that has good bushings and used it and my old one to build a good one. Gonna get the old one rebushed and build it as a spare.

Also put new cap, rotor, wires on (the plugs were already new) and no more missing ignition! Runs quieter too.

 

Did the reving and blocking the carb thing (I used the bottom of a pop can, seals the carb off nicely) and some Seafoam.

That seems to have helped a ton.

In the process of replacing old dried up vacuum lines. No leaks have been discovered yet though.

Took it out off-road tonight and it acted up once, didn't stall, just idled low and rough. But after a minute it was fine.

 

I'm thinking the carb just may still have a chunk of something in it. Guess it's rebuild time.

And I'm being lazy and still neglecting to put the new fuel filters on that I bought. Gonna do that this week.