yzerman19 Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 90 Loyale Sedan, SOHC 1.7L, non-turbo I've been getting a "35" code (Purge Canistor solenoid or circuit) forever now. I'm ready to banish the engine light. I have no clue what the heck this is telling me. I realize some codes may steer the owner off in the wrong direction, but I'm not even sure which direction to start with this code. Any hints? Suggestions? Past experiances? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 The Purge solenoid is bad or the circuit is not complete.... how is this not clear? The solenoid is located on the left (passenger) side of the manifold. Trace the vacuum lines from the carbon cannister back to the manifold. One will lead to one of the two solenoids (EVAP purge, and EGR). Whichever one it leads to is the purge solenoid, and either the connector is bad or the solenoid has failed. Replace it, or R&R the connector. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzerman19 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 I apologize for posting a question. Please forgive me. I must have lost my head and forgot what forums are for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 A simple search for "code 35" would have yielded many, many threads on this subject. You did enough research to find out what the code meant.... then just stopped?? That seemed strange to me. One would think you would try to figure out what a "purge solenoid" is and where it's located. You claimed you didn't know where to start but stated EXACTLY where to start.... it's right there in the description of the code GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzerman19 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 I did a search. I'm not here to argue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66619&highlight=purge+control+insanity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RONAN Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 I`ve tried most everything to get rid of my code 35 problem. If the light is annoying, just cover it over with black electrical tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msteel Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 GD can be abrasive (and he knows it:lol:), but he is usually right. Look for the solenoid he described. It is likely bad, or else the wiring to it is bad. If the solenoid is bad, here are your options: * Buy new Subaru solenoid - about $90 at the dealer. * Buy new non-subaru solenoid - may be difficult to find a cheap one that will swap easily * Get one from a junkyard. This is difficult in my area since there aren't many old gen subes around here, and most have not rusted enough to be in yards. I once bought an entire Loyale in an other state to get the two solenoids it had, for less than the dealer price for 2 solenoids (I then used and/or sold other parts from it). * Fake out the ECU using a resistor. The engine will perform acceptably without the purge solenoid. While waiting to get to my parts car I bypassed the solenoid and the car did fine for at least 1000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misledxcracker Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 Some Toyota solenoids work as well... I'd say just throw a resistor in the mix... I ran a code 35 with my old '88 sedan for who knows how long... Never really caused a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 The purge solenoid valve is usually mounted near the throttle body, on top of the engine. Its job is to purge out gas vapors from the charcoal canister back to the tank. It is a small device about 2 inches long that has electrical connections and hose connections tied to it. The plastic hose connections are very fragle and break very easily if they are torqued on. They also cost over 100 dollars for a new one (ask me how I know this :-\ ). The error code is set when the ECU doesn't see the correct current flowing in the solemoid circuit. The problem with these is usually caused by one of two things. One, the circuit that ties to it from the ECU is open or shorted. The other thing could be the solenoid coil is open. Very simple problems to fix. I would first check to see if voltage is getting to the solenoid. If so then check to see if the coil is open by measuring the resistance of the coil. The valve isn't on all the time so voltage isn't always there. There are two of these similair solenoids mounted close together and I think the other is for the EGR valve so don't confuse them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 8, 2007 Share Posted November 8, 2007 The code 35 will not cause the ECU to enter "limp mode" or "open loop" operation. It is PURELY an emissions control device (and a rather unimportant one at that). It CANNOT in any way affect other engine parameters so ignition and fuel maps are not changed. As far as the ECU is concerned there is nothing at all wrong with the engine or it's control circuitry. It's just noticing that it can't purge the vapor canistor properly, and letting you know about it..... I can't think of any code I would rather see if I had to see one :-p I like to get rid of all codes as otherwise important codes might go unoticed. I use a $0.50 resistor to eliminate my Purge and EGR solenoids. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squatty Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 I had the same code and the CEL. I just got one from a junkyard for $15. I'll be putting it in soon and hope this takes care of the CEL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 i'm getting a code 35 in my 1987.5 XT MPFI. sounds like this doesn't cause any running issues then? the engine is not running properly but i think that's due to a bad head leak, but want to make sure this couldn't cause any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 i'm getting a code 35 in my 1987.5 XT MPFI. sounds like this doesn't cause any running issues then? the engine is not running properly but i think that's due to a bad head leak, but want to make sure this couldn't cause any problems. You might want to pinch off the vacuum lines leading to the canister purge one at a time with the engine running. A change in rpms would indicate a vacuum leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 You might want to pinch off the vacuum lines leading to the canister purge one at a time with the engine running. A change in rpms would indicate a vacuum leak.thanks - i'll hit it with starting fluid too, forgot to try that. car won't idle right now...runs and drives okay, i was at 80mph on the highway today though with some bogging up steep grades and ocassional backfiring/injectors cutting off (or it feels like that), but it won't idle. probably the bad head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 but it won't idle. In that case it may be easier to disconnect all those hoses and plug them temporarily, then start it and see if it will idle. A vacuum gauge will quickly tell you if the head or valvetrain is causing the driveability problems, just like the combustion tester will tell you if the bubbles in the coolant are a problem (assuming the same car). PS I know I sound like a broken record, but those two tools should be in every mechanic's toolbox. They're cheap, easy to use, and great time savers when diagnosing problems. Honest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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