I have the SJR 6" weld-in kit. I've got a pretty good idea of what it'll take to make it up to road worthy again but, I've never installed a 6incher on a Subaru before. If you guys know of what I need to supply, find or get before I take my daily driver apart that'll help me out tremendously. I will also take many pictures of what modifications are needed to be done as I do them.

I'm gonna do an EJ22 swap shortly after the lift, maybe during the lift, don't know yet. I've gotta find the motor first.

nice to see another lifted ru in Kitsap! i personally say start with the rear. it tends to be easer and gives you motivation to complete the rest. send me a pm. i could probably hook up and lend a hand. Ru's stick together

I have no idea what you have. The "pesky" things for a 6" lift are:

Rear brake hoses, front brake lines (the extensions and couplers), you will have to mess with the exhaust, mess with the shift linkage (the rear shifter mount becomes critical, if yours is bad get another/new), extend the steering shaft 5 1/2", the E brake cables just make it (so be careful), disconnect the speedometer cable (rather than pull it apart), rad hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines (feed and return), vacuum hoses (charcoal canister and engine to firewall).

 

That's all I can think of.

i would recommend putting a 5 speed in it while your at it, sounds like you already will with the ej, but the 4 speed has a shift linkage for the 4x4 that makes it pretty hard to do with any more than 2 inch spacers on the tranny xmember.

the 5 speed has a different kind of shift linkage all together, and is alot easier to work with once you put big spacers on the tranny xmember.

most 3 or 4 inch lifts put shorter blocks (2 inch instead of 3 or 4)between the tranny xmember so you dont have to mess with shifters, but once you go big, its an issue.

just a little thing to think about/prepare for.

er... you already got a 5 speed, ug i need to read, heheh:Flame:

When I did mine, I made a bracket that re-located the shifter stay bar up 6" (on the transmission), then I just lengthened the shifter shaft. The rear shifter body mount literally fell apart when I went to remove it, the rubber had "un-bonded" itself from the two plates, I could not shift it without the mount (it was $30 from the dealer, I had no choice, the one on my other car was in the same condition).

When I did mine, I made a bracket that re-located the shifter stay bar up 6" (on the transmission), then I just lengthened the shifter shaft. The rear shifter body mount literally fell apart when I went to remove it, the rubber had "un-bonded" itself from the two plates, I could not shift it without the mount (it was $30 from the dealer, I had no choice, the one on my other car was in the same condition).

 

if you're relying that heavily on the rear mount...something else is wrong. I've been driving my car for a year+ without it.....it's only to hold up the back of the linkage.

seems like once theres a lift with more than 2 inch spacers on the tranny, and everything is at such a steep angle, that rear rubber block becomes much more important

 

Mcbrat told me about the hole with the screw and nyloc nut trick. works with stock mounts when they fall apart.

Thanks for all the input, I'm shootin on doin it during X-mas break so I can have a few days to figure things out and take my time. How difficult is it to scoot the drivetrain foreward a few inches? That will lessen my shifter/steering joint angles and I can have a bit more clearance for my 31x12.50 Boggers. I'll have to extend the rear shaft of coarse, I'll see what happens when I'm in there. I'll post up pics and a quick description of everything I do with the SJR 6" weld in kit. Next summer It'll be T-cased and full width IFS and IRS. I'll put the EJ22 up where it belongs also. This is just a temp lift.

. Next summer It'll be T-cased and full width IFS and IRS. I'll put the EJ22 up where it belongs also. This is just a temp lift.

 

on the shifters alls Ive done is make a smalltab bent 3/4 flatbar, hooked to the 1 mounting bolt this will bring the linkage rear mt down and forward a inch or so, you may be able to lengthen the front radius rods a inch or so to give more clearance, to move everything forward temparary seems like alot of work,

Mcbrat told me about the hole with the screw and nyloc nut trick. works with stock mounts when they fall apart.

 

I was going to make something, but figured WTF, with a new mount I know that is no longer a problem.

 

If you move everything forward a couple of inches you will be into the rad. I have 31" tires here and they just clear the structure, I cut away the fender bottoms (everything below the mounting tab on the hinge pillar) and am running fender flares.