Alaska Style

Cool cool, I've got I think 6? Aluminium Manifolds, along with a wall of Performance SBC stuff... cams, heads, distributers, 3 Superchargers, High Rev Kit, a few sets of tall welded aluminium valve covers, valve girdles, and lots of goodies and EFI leftovers from my 6.7L S-10. My buddy found a trashed upside down and ran over Subaru grown over in bushes way out in the mountains. I'll try to pull the keepers off before the snow gets to it. Swing by some time and I'll help you weld the rear, Twin Stick it, pull your swaybars and throw in a 2nd E-Brake Handle. (One for each front tire) Welded rear, full controll of each front tire slippage and lots more flex = you go places you used to wish you could go

Wanna buy my 6" SJR EA82 Lift? still new in the box.......... It's the older generation lift with Aluminium componets. It's also posted on the Alaska4x4Network.com You should twin stick it if it's not done already. I did that along with MANY other mods to mine and it was one of the very best mods I've ever done. Oh yeah, and did you ever run that alternator I sold'ya...

A looong looong time ago I saw a YouTube video of a crappy GL with a junkyard 351 2wd setup and it looked stock until it started and sputtered out a 2wd burnout... There also a few LS powered STI videos on there... Subaru's are cool because of their flat wide motors so width really isn't a problem. A Big Block would have the most potential and would have the most power if you built it up a little... The FWD setup with the welded diff has the best gear ratio for of road if you wanna do well with big tires and not re-gear or add a T-case . I've driven 2 of those before and it was so much fun, they felt extremely powerfull and spun 'm up to the top speed of close to 50.. but they got there in a few short heart beats... also, those were mid engine... I'm not sure how much front CV/Drive shaft your gonna have if you run it up front... maybe if you just ran one CV to a divorced T-case from a Nissan or samurai or something... I just got done putting a 409ci (6.7L) SBC in my 88 S-10. I figured putting a v8 in an S truck was easy... nope. Its a nice street truck so the rules are waaay different than if it was a mud toy. But the steering, cooling, shift linkage, and headers were a pain in the a$$!!!!!. It's a super duper tight fit. I've also put loots of though into beef in up my old GL. My dream swap was a Vortec 4.3/4L60E and dual Toyota cases... I was thinking of keeping it road leagleish and very functional off road with my FZJ80 axles and 40's. But that was a dream.... along with many...

Her's how it looked when I ran it.. It's not really a "bolt in" thing. You'll have to put some time permanently modifying your 2 Alt brackets to run this. Easy stuff. If your Engine isn't dropped it'll rub on a support rib on the hood. Quick fix because it's a rib that easily hammers up with something heavy and you'll have to get new longer belts which I forgot the length. The Pivot side bracket will have to be drilled to fit that 1/2" bolt and that tube to keep the ears from bending will have to be cut out. You'll also have to drill/file out the slot in the J-Bracket to fit that 1/2" bolt. That'll take a D shaped file and a few Mt. Dews... Ther's an extra threaded hole to the right of where the J-Bracket originally bolted to. I put it there and it worked. I did all of it in a parking lot in NAVY uniform, drove to NAPA on the battery and test fitted untill I found belts that got tight. The belt size it very tricky. The Alternator is so HUGE it'll only go half way down the adjustment slot when it hits the head so ther's not much room to tighten a belt. Good luck...

Also, I'll like to Know how you fitted the 9004 Halogen Bulbs onto the Reverse lights... Kind Regards.[/color][/size] I cut the round 9004 socket from an old set of broken plastic headlights from an unknown car the junkyard let me have and I dremmel'd the tail light socket bigger and JB welded the 9004 Twist lock socket part to the back of my tail lights. I bought 9004 pigtails from Napa for like a dollar each and wired it up to high only. Stepped up to a bigger fuse and it worked for years. It eventually half melted the reverse section of tail light because it got to hot one night but I got over it.

I think about it everyday. I've got a full blown home shop and I'm a lot smarter now and with lots more tools parts and money. It's gonna be a Yellow Baja with Grey plastics. Before I cut and bumper it. I've got pretty much good ideas on the big stuff. It's gonna be my round 2 Suby. Faster, newer, smarter, stronger, bigger you get the point... Long Travel Toyota IFS front and back, maybe a Ford 8.8 IRS, 38" TSL SX's, Dual Toyota Cases, not sure about the motor/tranny yet. Maybe a Supercharged Toyota 3.4 setup... I'll get there when I get there... My 2wd Gofast 409ci EFI S-1O and my Crew cab on 44's will get very jealous if I'm in the garage with another project. I'll take lots of pictures and start a very cool build up thread when I do..

What's up dude... funny, I haven't been on this forum since early 2009ish before your alternator question on the Alaska4x4Network 88' Battle Wagon. SPFI 1.8L .020 Shaved Fully Ported Turbo Heads. Circle Track Cams advanced 2*. Solid Lifters. 140 AMP Alternator, Removed Sway Bars. Twin Stick'd.. "Hi or Lo Shifter and a Front or all 4 Shifter." Welded 3.9 Rear Diff, Open Front 3.9 Diff but Individual Front E-Brakes "Two E-Brake Handles"******1.75" Lift. I've still got a New 6" lift in the box.... Turbo Rear Disk Brakes. Drilled and Slotted front and Rear Disks. CNC 6 Lug Hubs, NEW 31x12.50 BOGGERS on NEW 15x10 White Spokes with Steel Valve Stems... 50Watt 43K HID Dual Beam Lights. I put the stock High Beams in the Reverse Lights. Dual Core Atomatic-Turbo Radiator with the Automatic Heat Exchanger Removed. Heavily Tested by Bodey Lee Winningham Jr. Front Bumper. 5/16 thick Steel door protecters. Hehe, That black line and shiny Carraige bolts aint rubber anymore! hinged front license Plate... It swings.... Rampage Casette Deck... It will NEVER skip, I've tried HARD... ouch******And LOTS more... But thats all that comes to mind right meow

88' Battle Wagon. SPFI 1.8L .020 Shaved Fully Ported Turbo Heads. Circle Track Cams advanced 2*. Solid Lifters. 140 AMP Alternator, Removed Sway Bars. Twin Stick'd.. "Hi or Lo Shifter and a Front or all 4 Shifter." Welded 3.9 Rear Diff, Open Front 3.9 Diff but Individual Front E-Brakes "Two E-Brake Handles"******1.75" Lift. I've still got a New 6" lift in the box.... Turbo Rear Disk Brakes. Drilled and Slotted front and Rear Disks. CNC 6 Lug Hubs, NEW 31x12.50 BOGGERS on NEW 15x10 White Spokes with Steel Valve Stems... 50Watt 43K HID Dual Beam Lights. I put the stock High Beams in the Reverse Lights. Dual Core Atomatic-Turbo Radiator with the Automatic Heat Exchanger Removed. Heavily Tested by Bodey Lee Winningham Jr. Front Bumper. 5/16 thick Steel door protecters. Hehe, That black line and shiny Carraige bolts aint rubber anymore! hinged front license Plate... It swings.... Rampage Casette Deck... It will NEVER skip, I've tried HARD... ouch******And LOTS more... But thats all that comes to mind right meow

That 4th and 6th picture is mine. I took those in Tahuya WA. Great memories. I now rock a Chevy on 44's hard but I will never forget my Battle Wagon days.... soon I'll build a Baja on 38's.

A Chevy adapter would be relly cool, If I did that I'd run the NV-3500. "A lightweight 5sp" I don't wanna go auto, and the Power glide is a simple 2 speed tranny which I've been throught and broke and build and ran lots and know very well but I would never run one again because, well it's a 2sp and ther'e only happy on the track. The 87-92 700-R4 would be the only auto I'd run, if I went auto. A locking diff for the newer EJ tranny is kinda what I'm in the mood for. If I can bolt a tuff 5sp RWD Subaru tranny to that flat 6 I'll be happy. I know my current EA82 4wd tranny won't hold up to that 6, It's about to pop anyway. I'm running an aluminium 8.8 IRS diff from a T-Bird so gears/locker is no problem. I'm gonna search up that PPG site and see what they have.. I just have no experience on Subaru tranny's and I don't know what to look for...... I had a 93 Legacy for a while and that 5sp was relly nice, but I don't know if it will hold up if the diff was welded/spool'd... rear shaft strength... or what model of tranny has a good reputation of holdin up.... This build is comming from a slow angry 4X4 off roader on Boggers that was very well built for WA woods and going towards a go-fast highway friendly RWD daily driver on 33" AT's I can beat up on the hard stuff and run with other RWD toys down here in so-cal every other month or so.

I've got an EG33 in my RWD 89' GL and the tranny is the last part... I'm just not shure on what the perferred transmission is to "lock up" and run the rear drive only. You guy's know what tranny to look for? and if some website sells spools for'm, or is welding the diff what usually happens....

So, my EA82 gave me some blown head gasket symptoms the other day. overheating and loosing coolant, but no white smoke, ran like a$$. I had to hit town and grab Mt. Dew so when it was cold I pulled the radiator cap, topped it off and started it and it started pumpin coolant out the radiator cap hole.?. I ran it for a minute and shure enough, exhaust started pumpin out throught the hole. Ever see that before? I pulled the heads today and cly 1 had a pretty fat crack, the others are normal little ones. I've done lots of theese head gaskets before and every head I'ever pulled had cracks, but none as big as this one. Ever have exhaust blow from the radiator? not me, till now anyway, but I've never ran one like that either...... A blown head gasket is the only thing that'll cause that, right? What other thing can cause that?

Haha no:grin: Thanks for all the reply's and stuff. I'm forcing myself to be stuborn here and stay Subaru with the motor. I know other drive trains will be more practicle and cheeper and easier and simpler and take less modification and wiring and Mt.Dew but I'm tryn to do somethin relly sweet and cool here that I havn't done before. I've thought at mating it straight to a NV-3500 and a NP241C. Pretty much a 1/2 ton Chevy tranny/T-case with this Subaru motor, but I think I'll just run a Legacy 5-speed and divorced T-case. I won't start till I finish gatherin the rest of the big parts.

The thing is, I've done all that..... I havn't ran the 54" Boggers yet but I've stuck the biggest of everything else, LTB's, I-Roks, Big Apples. I've played the heavy high power big block 40+ tires 16" lift game sence forever. I'm kickin myself in the rump roast with this swap right now because I can easily put together another carb'd 300+hp GM 4.3L and bolt it to an NV-3500 and a NP241C T-case and be done. But I've done that, and beet that game lots of times.... Time for a new game. Her's what the end goal will be. Think Baja style Subaru if you will. The motor/tranny will be at stock height, just slid aft as far as I can get'm. I'm gonna run a Divorced T-case and run rear independant diffs from a 1989-1997 T-bird "Aluminum 8.8" front and rear with 8-lug knuckles/outers from a solid Dana 44 front and back with U-joints, not CV's and I'm gonna built a super tuff Buggy style Suspension that will clear 34/9-16 Narrow TSL's at full stuff. I've got everything but the Subaru stuff taken care of. I know very little about their tranny swaps and what fits what and stuff about that 3.3. I'll figure it out as I do it and find out what I can't but I'm just lettin the smarter guys know what I'm gonna do before I do it. Can I remove all the stock SPFI componets in such a way that I can install the EG33 stuff in it's place so I can have a SPFI/EA82 swap kit left over? I'm thinkin I can, If it ties to all my dash stuff can I get the harness from a carbed wagon and put that into my car along with the EG stuff? I've never done this before.......... Oh, is there a way to make my stock 4cly tach read correctly with that 6cly? Will an XT6 tach fit? I'm a big fan of clean interiors/dashes that look factory and everything works and stuff......

Hello all. I've got an excellant running SPFI Wagon and an EG33. Her's my plans. Mate the 33 to a 5 (or 6) speed and install it as far back in the engine compartment as possible. I'm gonna run a Samurai T-case so I can sliding the motor-tranny back enough to run a custom radiator up front "hopfully". Those are my current plans for the powertrain. I've got the bulletproof long travel 8-lug IFS/IRS taken care of, that's my territory, I've got lots of background with that stuff. I'm fairly new to Soobs though, I've got the EA's covered pretty well but I'm still foggy on the newer stuff. Question 1. What's would you guys recomend on a manual tranny I should look for that can be worked to support 1OO% RWD 2. What mild performance options do I have, cams, rockers, headers.......... 3. I know I need the ECU and harness, but what else? SVX Fuel Pump, MAF sensor.... 4. How much can I strip from this engine, EGR, Vacume stuff, A/C, You know, stuff my project don't need. Any and all suggustions/tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bodey.

I've got a set of 896 "Power Pack" Heads for that 283. It's been awhile since I've played with V8's but I think they had a 59cc Combustion chamber and 1.72" intake and 1.50" exhausts valves? They are the ones they put on Vette's in the early 60's. Also..... a 283 block with a 327 crank is a 307!!! I've built one of those in my old truck and it had LOTS of low torque and a bullet proof idle. Great for a 4x4. The best thing for a heavy car with a small C.I. motor is a deep stroke, skinny bore with small fast flowing heads, and with the original 283 block you and your chief will be the only ones that knows it's relly a stump pullin 307 on the inside. Oh, and it'll be very wise of you to gasket match all the runners between the manifold/head/exhaust. I built a 307 combo in my old 71' 4x4 with 40's and 5.13 gears, 10.5:1 pistons, Torquer II cam/manifold and a 1.7 rockers and a few others was faster than my buddys 04 V6 mustang from O to about 60..... and I got very good milage for a truck on 40's

Sorry guys, I can't make it this time. I have to standby for somebody on the boat so I don't get this weekend anymore. Take lots of pics and goodluck.

I can make it.... maybe.... I may have to pick up a motor that day, but if you wanna go for it I'll be there. I should have real meaty 14" tires on by than also....

I've searched and I havn't found anything so I'm gonna ask. The rear of EA82 Wagon sits at about 80% compression. That's all the time with pretty much no load. If I have my 190lb buddy sit on the rear bumper, it will ride on the rubber bumpstops, both sides. I'm not lookin for a lift, well I am, but not directly. Her's my question. Is there something somewhat commonly done or parts off a different car "stiffer springs" that'll keep it's ride height closer to 30-50ish% compression? or atleast half down/half up. 1 inch down & 4 inches up ain't cool anymore. Jackin that car up to change a tire takes forever!!!! I'm thinkin along the lines of a perfect fit 2inch tall round pipe above the lower spring plate and coil so It'll sit higher up on the shock. I'm open to what's already been done before I start experimenting. Or do I have a simple case of bad spring sag and I ned new ones? Bodey.

Take that sucker off. Subaru's ride like a shopping kart too much as it is anyway. They need all the help they can get. I've taken the Sway Bars off evrything I've ever owned within hours of gettin home, Lots and lots of lifted trucks, 96' Land Rover Disco II, 96' TRD Tacoma, 91' SHO, 03' Kia Rio, 86' Dodge Raider..... and many many many more. I have zero regrets with any vehicles and after a few hours I don't even notice it's gone unless I think about it and swerve real hard. I'm also a huge off roader so my opinion is somewhat bias to off road performance. My daily driver 89' Wagon has a welded rear, no swaybars, big 14's and ther's always stuff on the roofrack. It's got a fair amount of body roll hittin off-ramps and stuff but oh'well, I'm over it, It's not bad, just a side affect. Like the bigger tires, I gain more clearance, but I have less low end grunt and the big spare don't fit under the hood, Oh'well, I got over it. It'll pretty much go anywhere as long as one back tire's touchin and the floor isn't. It'll also take bumps and hits to one side softer with out it because it won't impact on the vehicle as hard while the sway bar tries to yank the other tire up or down. The sway bar mounts on Soobs also make for a great rear mount for a custom skid plate. That's my personal opinion on Sway Bars and I would rather have them off than on. A quick disconnect is a great idea, I've even built and installed a few on customer rigs as well as super beefy thick swaybars on my dad's Porsche 928. "I" personally don't gain anything with them in other than more tire spin, tire slippage, traction loss and one more thing to squeek, clunk or bend. That's my very narrow perception on'm. Bodey.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PRESTOLITE-160-AMP-LEECE-NEVILLE-110555-ALTERNATOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ008QQitemZ180260459346QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW I've got one of those in my 89'. 16O amps, Large case, big bearings, super duper heavy duty, excellant cooing fan, and it sounds like a turbo, "serious, it does". I think it was like 85 bucks shipped, Two 1O dollar belts and a hand full of quarters for some bolts and $1.35 big a$$ lugnut to center/fasten the stock pulley. It took me about an hour with a D-shape file and a 1/2" drill bit to make it bolt up to the modified/stock brackets. Oh yeah, and the front fan rubbed on the support rib that runs on the underside of the hood when I loaded the motor down real hard, 2 hits with a 1/2 drive Craftsman Ratchet fixed that.

I installed HID's on my 89' GL last week. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-CONVERSION-KIT-Bi-XENON-H4-9007-9004-Dual-Hi-Lo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36476QQihZ002QQitemZ120277767566QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Well, They are amazing off road and in the woods;) But the drive there on the open dark Highway was kinda dissapointing. My Headlights are in like new condition with a very clear class and a spotless reflector. I pulled out that round black thing in front of the bulb a long time ago and I did noticed an improvement in light output with my stock bulbs. I installed the HID's and they have a GREAT wide flood pattern, highly reccomended for off road, they also light up EVERY road sign, reflector and shiny thing on the guard rails and the lines on the road like no other. I had to squint a little when I passed a Semi Trailer with all those red/white markers strips down the side. Ther's somethin about HID light that makes those suckers and those green road signs with white letters 5 miles down the road glow and glare like how black light lights up white T-shirts in a dark room. Oh yeah, I also got flashed by EVERYBODY. I pointed them way way down and still got flashed. I knew by removing that black bulb guard thing along time ago will make my lights a bit less friendly to on-comming traffic before I did it, I've done it before on lots of different vehicles and never got flashed. I ran without'm for months and never got flashed till the day I ran 4,300k HID's. Their long range beam sucked relly relly bad compared to the stock bulbs. That's all I have to say about that.

I should be able to make it. My 89' Wagon has a welded rear, smashed up rockers and grabby tires. I'm gettin to know evey trail in Tahuya pretty well and I've got lots of recovery gear. But I won't know if I can make it till a few days before it happens. Dammit!!! nevermind, I was thinking about another place.

Would you guys rather have the 4 head light style that's on the DL's, I'm just curious? If you could pick from the either style for better night driving, which would it be? You'd think that having 2 more brights up there would be great and you'd have the opportunity to aim 4 lights to 4 different spots of the road instead of the Single headlight style where you only have a left and right to point. Not to mention the availability and aftermarket options of 4x6's..... vs replacing/upgrading the bulb and wiping off the old lense.....