Alaska Style

I'm with this dude, It's easier than it seams. An idiot proof method I've used it to pull a front hub off the rotor/cv, remove 2 studs and bolt it to the back of the wheel and face the wheel down, You've got a perfect jig. Zap it with a a dril bit or center punch it to center the holes, remove the hub and go to town with smaller bits first. Steel 15'' 6-lugger spokes are almost a dime a dozen. steel 14'' 6-lugger spokes are pretty much free if you can find'm. You can also flip the wheel right side up and drill the hub to a ~perfect~ 6-lugger that way. It's a bit more work to make the studs fit right, and you've gotta dig up more studs and nuts, but it looks way cooler and after you do it once you'll be set on cheep and extremely easy to find 6-lug wheels for life. They're everywhere.

You mean one of theese?

Bright headlights in older cars are a game of voltage. Relay or not. If your system is pushin 12+ volts to the Brights than you won't gain much. But with 13+ volts at the battery and 10ish at the bulb, lots of room for improvement. There are other ways of fixing it. But adding a relay between battery and bulb don't take much time and will throw a few more volts to your brights. Volt meters can be less than 20 bucks and they can tell if your 80's wires and contacts and switches are slowing you down or not by measuring voltage drop. I've also seen poor voltage at the heator blower motor, ?. I've added a relay between the battery and the high terminal on the motor to give it more volts and it spun faster and blew more air, not much, but noticable You may also see pi$$ poor volts at the wiper motor, I have. It's kinda fun to turn stuff on high and see what it runs at. Also, stab stuff with it turned on high with a fat jumper wire from the battery + and see if it's performance increases or not. It most likely will, heater's spins faster, lights burn brighter, wipers spin faster, and so on.

Check the voltage at your high beams. It's easy, flick on your brights and stick a volt-meter on the back of the bulb. My old 88' GL was pushin low 10ish volts to the brighs with it running and high 13 volts at the battery, WTF I say. Buy those cheep off road light relays at NAPA and mount it between the battery and the light. Use the old Bright "high beam" signal will energize the relay, and the relay will energize the bulb using battery voltage. Run the bright wire from the bulb to #85 on the relay and ground #86 Run fat wire with a fuse from the battery into #87 and run more fat wire from #30 on the relay to the Bright post on the bulb. Bam, high 13volts at the bulb = brightness. I usually don't care about brighter low beams so I fix the brights and call it good. I believe those numbers are correct, it's been years sence I've thought about'm. Double check, I may be wrong. Going from a dozen+ feet of stiff 80's wire and it's many links and splices and old switch and possible corrosion will make any light burn dim. This'll turn that to a few feet of healthy wire straight from battery/charging voltage. I highly recommend it if you have more than 1 volt differance between battery and bright.

I highly recommend one of theese ones, Their EXTREMELY tuff, and pretty darn easy to drop in an EA82. cheep 14O or 16Oamps, Large case, big bearing never worry last forever kinda thing. 85 bucks!!!! LEECE NEVILLE has ALOT of output options gettin in the hundreds of amps and are easily rebuildable/up-gradeable. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PRESTOLITE-140-AMP-LEECE-NEVILLE-110555-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ180217291992QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 http://www.prestolite.com/literature/alts/PP1131_110-555.pdf "ps. I have 2 belts now"

My 89' SPFI Wagon started fluctuating from 10~18 volts and I had to constantly monitor and switch on/off high beams, rear defrost and heater fan to maintain 12ish volts. Also, my Brake light, Charge light, and E-brake light has been on sence this started a month ago. It's had good days where it's fine and some days where it'll max out the volt guage even with all loads on high. I removed and inspected and cleaned and reinstalled the cables/wires and still no change. 3 Red dash lights on full time, even on a nice 12V day. I put in a new 140 AMP alternator and the dash lights never came on again. I still don't know why the brake light came on. They also glowed and flickered, the new alternator fix it. Weird.....

I know It's short notice but my rear shaft u-joins are clankin harder each day, One might break on this run, I'll trade 40 bucks and my old shaft If one of you guys are able to bring one that's tight with'ya tomorrow mornin, I'm pullin an all nighter so call anytime. Thanks.

I'll be there in my really cool stock red Wagon that tries relly relly hard. My number's 907-252-8489, Bo. It'll be close, and a very long night, but it'll be 4-WD.

So I was puttin through town yesterday, not fast, just commin home. I was holdin steady 35ish, it jerked back, popped real hard out the tail pipe and the engine died. Dammit!!!! cranks over fine, just crankin dead. So I assume the driver side timing belt let go or slipped a copuple teeth which would throw the Distributer way off or not even turn it. The guy behind me herd the backfire and pulled over with me and helped push it to the back of a carwash parkin lot. I removed the timing belt covers to find out that the belts are tight, in perfect time, and look suprisingly new and fresh. I crank it a bunch and nothing happens. The distributer's tight and didn't spin. I'm thinkin WTF?. It pulses evenly and like it should by the starter so a rockers didn't fall off. "The exhaust rocker on my last Sub fell off". But it did run, so that wasn't it. I pulled the Cap and put my finger on the rotor and it easily spun around and I pulled it right off the shaft, YES!! FREE FIX!!!!! The weird thing is, There was no screw or anything under the cap that held the rotor to the shaft. I had a center consol full of options so I wasn't worried, I found an allen head that fit the shaft's threads so I enlarged the hole in the rotor with my pocket knife to make room for the fat allen's head. Put it on and it runs like a Subaru. I also found that one of my covers is cracked and who ever put the center cover on last rolled the rubber gasket around. I cleaned'm up real nice and put everything I didn't need to pull back on and learned another Subaru fix 1st hand

Nice, That's just what I'm lookin for. A high clearance simple tuff bumper with a little Stinger and healthy yanker pionts. Can't wait

One time I picked up an 86' GL for 50 bucks that ran like a$$, had little power and had a strange rpm related rattle/clunk/knock and threw mad flames out the intake. The owner said a the motor's shot and a rod is about to go so he sold it for the price of the D/R 5-speed. I slowly drove it home and drank a root beer and started thinkin about the flames from the intake thing. That just doesn't fit the loose rod idea. I pulled the valve covers and saw that the exhaust rocker on #3 somehow twisted off the lifter and cam and was floppin around on the rocker stud:banana: The exhaust valve was never lifting. I forcfully forced it back on the cam-lifter and it had full power, no weird noises and ran like a Subaru I eventually blew a head gasked to where it wasn't road worthy and gave the car away......

Dammit!!!! I would soooo go witchya and tear it up but my Sub's one CV short of Tahuya this weekend. It gave up on life last time I was up there. I'm rockin RWD right now My seats are also a little damp from a recent Mud Lake incident. http://alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=33274 SlideShow86, Sorry about your old tire, it was an accident........ 3 are still good;)

Thanks, What do you know about turbo EJ22's? I've got the EA motors all figured out and I'm running outta questions on N/A EJ's but now I'm curious about turbo EJ's now. So is there a power gain goin to an interference motor? So far I'm planin on a turbo 95' 2.2 with an OBD 1 harness in my 89' off roader. I hope to build up a bullet proof 150~170hp and I'm wanna get the best platform to build up. Delta has EJ22 cams right? what'll those do with a healthy turbo motor?

Alright, What about for the most power, Including Turbos. Besides the super expensive new motors, Are the EJ25's worth the extra few bucks? Is there a power differance between interference/non interferance engines?

Idle Air Control. I donno about a better one, but I do know they're easy to take apart and clean. I've fixed a bunch on everything but Subaru's "I'm new" and the only problem I've ever seen is they stick and don't open/close properly causing a rough, high or no idle. Her's a link with a cool picture. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h60.pdf

Is it loose and sloppy? If you have acess to a welder/cutoff wheel, you can easily do it. The shifter in my 89' GL project had LOTS of side slop, so I took a good look into it and found out that where the female side of shift rod from the shifter slides over the male shaft rod from the tranny "just like a tiny cv setup" was very loose and sloppy and was contributing to mega amounts of side slop. There is a roll pin that keeps it on "just like cv's" I put a bolt/locknut in there and cranked'r down and I now have almost NO side slop, just rod flex. I also took the bushings apart on the shifter handle and cut up a tin can and used pieces of that as sleeve inserts to make the bushings tighter to further stiffen the feel and take up bushing slack. You can use chapstick for a cheep bushing/sleeve lube, I did. But if you want a shorter throw, you can easily remove the handel from inside the car, there are 2 welds that hold the bracket that the shift rod bolts through, you can cut that bracket off and move it up a few inches and bam!!! shorter throw. The stroke from 1-2 will be alot shorter/quicker and possible harsher, depends on driving habbits. But side to side will remain the same and the shifter height will remain the same unless remove rod from under that bracket which the knob will interfear with the shiftboot. You can take the easy fast way around and drill a hole on the very top of the bracket. It will feel a bit shorter, but there won't ba a huge difference. Run Valvoline 75w90 Synthetic with Slick 50 gear addiditive.

So, I've gotta find a 95' motor and run OBD 1 stuff from a 94' and earlier EJ22. Gotcha:rolleyes: Still thinkin about the craigslist post:confused: he said no 90'-91 but he'll only take 92 or later.......hmmmm.....

I've got a question about the EJ22 that relates to this thread's title. Isn't every year of the Gen 1 EJ22 the same? any variance from one to the other? Why did this dude say he needs one after 92? I just wanna know cause I'm also lookin for one. Knowledge is Power.Thanks. http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/wan/525788984.html

Buy 15x1O's with 3.75 back spacing, I did. Don't turn and you'll be just fine

I'm gatherin parts for my 89' Wagon build and have read many articles about this but I havn't found any good pictures of how they have been hung and how the are driven. I have a front diff and T-case back home from an 88' Raider, I might run, depending on adaptability. I've got a good idea, but pictures are better. I just wanna see what has been done before and what works before I build my own setup. Thanks.

It rubs the fender when I turn far right and it pulls a little to the right, but it's not bad enough to cause premature tire wear. It'll be fixed soon anyways.

I lost the spare in the Tahuya ORV park, I was floppin up a nasty hill in 4-lo with 2nd gear pinned and it geal real skinny at the top with trees on both sides with tall roots stickin out all over. If I had stopped when I noticed it, I would have slid into and bounced off lots of stuff with no hope of stopping till I hit the bottom so I kept on it and jumped the ~7"~ tall tree roots. That sucker bent my Radious arm back a bunch and twisted my lower arm real bad. My CV shaft now rubs on the part of the body that hangs down behind it. I'll take a picture of a twisted stuff the next time I'm in the shop. I killed the 13incher the night before and put on the spare for "tomorrow's" run. I put the flat 13incher back on and drove home till it was nothin left and finished off on the clampin 15 spare rim:headbang:

That was the 3rd tire I had on that corner sence last weekend This was my spare, The guy who invented tree roots is retarded!!!!

Thanks for all the input, I'm shootin on doin it during X-mas break so I can have a few days to figure things out and take my time. How difficult is it to scoot the drivetrain foreward a few inches? That will lessen my shifter/steering joint angles and I can have a bit more clearance for my 31x12.50 Boggers. I'll have to extend the rear shaft of coarse, I'll see what happens when I'm in there. I'll post up pics and a quick description of everything I do with the SJR 6" weld in kit. Next summer It'll be T-cased and full width IFS and IRS. I'll put the EJ22 up where it belongs also. This is just a temp lift.