After a few months of sitting and a few attempts at getting the car to start. i put new plugs and wires on the car(all other tune up items had previously been done, and yes by me).

 

Hooked the battery back up, turned the key and what do ya know the car finally turned over and ran, for about 2 seconds. then it died. Did no spit and sputter miss or anything, it just turned off like you would turn the key off.

 

would not do anything more han crank over which was wat it was doing before, i had spark and fuel before today. after the car died, it cranks but I have no spark and no fuel. I checked my fusible links and the ignition and fuel fuses under the dash and they are both still fine.

 

I'm kinda thinking bad ECM. but before I jump to conclusions, any one else have any ideas?

h mm, just thought of this, but i hadthe same issue with my rx a few years back, i had checked the fuses and they were all good, but the ignition fuse, i believe the third from the left on the second row of fuses, wasnt hitting the contacts in the fuse box, double check the fuses and check the connctions for em as well.

Check rotor. Make sure the screw didn't fall out, which would cause no spark.

If you still don't have any spark, I would check to see if you have spark from the coil. If you do, then you can narrow it down to the cap/rotor/plug wires/plugs. If you don't then I would check else where. Since I just had the same issue for the most part, make sure when you turn the key to the run position, that the check engine light is on. After testing everything, I had finally noticed that mine wasn't on. After checking the 4 power wires going to the ecu, i discovered two were unpowered and traced them back to the ignition relay, located above the ecu. You won't find it at any auto parts store, but it is on Rock Auto for $15. It could be other things, but I thought I'd share that since it just happened to me. For more great advice too, check out the thread for my problem! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82508 If you need any help, just let me know, I picked up quite a bit of knowledge from my no spark issue.

I'm sorry, I hadn't noticed that you didn't have fuel either, its around quarter to 4 a.m. here,haha. This could possibly be an ECU problem. But before I'd go dropping money on a new ECU, check your power going to the ECU. For a great wiring diagram to use, check this link,http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html at the very bottom of the page is a service manual from Subaru. I couldn't have figured out my problem without the wiring diagrams in it. But it may be worth checking before dropping money on a new ECU. I would check that out,since you said you checked all the fusible links and fuses. Like I said in my last post though, definitely check whether the check engine light is on or not. That should tell you if its properly powered.

Not entirely sure what the deal was with the spark, only thing I changed was tighten up the screw on the back of the rotor button and I had spark at the plugs again. I guess it was just a hair to loose.

 

now for problem number 2. No fuel. spray carb cleaner down the intake, and she fires right up and runs as long as you spray carb cleaner.

 

Anyone have any helpful hints on quarks with the MPFI fuel injection that I don't know?

 

Thanks for all your help so far guys. sometimes I guess I need some one to point out the obvious:-\

The problem with the fuel pump may be due to a problem within the ECU. The exact same thing you described happened to me once on my '88 GL-10. The problem turned out to be a bad transistor in the ECU for the pump circuit. To see if that is correct you should be able to listen and hear the pump run for a brief period when you turn the key to the RUN position. If you don't hear it try cranking the engine for a couple of seconds and then try again. If you still don't hear the pump then most likely the transistor is bad.

 

You can verify that by checking the voltage at the wire connector under the rear seat that goes through the floor, to the pump. There should be a silver wire that ties to the ECU and that wire is tied to a controlled ground inside the ECU. If you have 12 volts on that wire when the pump should be on then the ground side of the circuit has a problem. You can fix this yourself if you are pretty good with a soldering iron. I think the transistor number on the board was Q701 if I remember correctly. If you would like me to fix it for you I would be glad to help you out but you may be able get a used one at a salvage yard also.

 

EDIT:

Here is a link that talks about what happened to another poster with the same problem. It includes some good pictures.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76466&page=3

Can easily hear the pump for a second or 2 when you turn the key over to on.

 

Is ther a relay or the injectors i'm not aware of?

Just a couple of lame comments

 

1) how much gas is in the tank?

 

2) if you loosen the line from the fuel filter

does gas spue out?

 

3) I (maybe others) would like to know what

fuel system this "GL 10" has?

Might help the trouble shoot.

 

4) as far as the injectors

if it's MPFI

There is a silver rectangular

box on the pass side strut tower

This is the resistor block for the injectors.

Test to see if it has battery voltage when the key is on.

 

The ECU grounds the other side of the injector to open it.

 

Hope this helps if it is just "phooey" I will delete it.

Since the pump is working have you checked the fuel filter to see if that is ok? If fuel is coming out of the filter then I would check the injector circuit next. The ECU makes a ground connection for those also. Be sure to check the fusible links and fuses for a problem there.

Has anyone suggested that he read codes?

 

Also thi is MPFI, buit is it turbo or non?

 

Also make sure you're intake tube (rubber tube from Air filter box to Turbo or throttle body) is secured to the air cleaner and engine, and has no big cracks in it or loose hoses

Its got a half a tank of gas in it, I replaced the fuel filter last summer. gas does spue out when you take the line off, at the intake manifold and the filter.

 

I'm gonna get over there today and check the relay and amke sure its getting voltage like its supposed to

You should see 12 volts on pin 2 of the dropping resistor (a red wire, but there are two of them so don't confuse them). This comes from the red fusible link. If you don't have voltage there then check the link for a loose connection.

got 12 volts on the red wire. got power to the injectors. I checked ALL fuses and link with a test light, they are all good.

 

tried unplugging the maf and had no effect. was a shot in the dark but I thought I'd try it.

 

I'm stumped. the gas has been in ther around a year, so i want to try running a hose from a gas can with fresh gas from the fuel pump and see what happens then. Doesn't really make sense if the gas is stale why it would run for a couple seconds then die, but i guess anything is possible.

 

Sound like it might be worth triyin or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Check out the ignition switch.

Since the engine did run at first I doubt that new gas will make a difference. I recommend you check the return side of the injectors to see if the ECU is making the ground to turn them on. The injectors tie to the ECU in pairs and 1 and 2 tie to ECU pins 49 and 50. Injectors 3 and 4 tie to ECU pins 51 and 52. You should see the voltage pulsing at those pins if the ECU is working as it should be.

 

As Gloyle previously mentioned, you should check the ECU for any error codes if you haven't done that already.

not sure why it hasnt come up yet, but have you checked the fuel lines to make sure they are in the right places? the fuel line from the filter goes to the line in the top center, the return goes to the left of that and the vapor line goes to the right of the fuel line.i just thought about that and remembered that i did that once when i wasnt paying attention. it had simular results.

subyrally nailed it. I could have sworn i had them right... yeach me to be sure of something like that.

 

new problem, MASS amounts of white smoke. doesn't smell sweet like antifreeze burning, doesn't smell like oil at all. just ALOT of white smoke.

 

Any idea? last time the car was driven enough to get to full boost is spooled fine, havn't drove the car yet, I don't want to risk messing anything up.

 

no smoke anywhere else but out the exhaust.

no tranny type mentioned but if it is an auto

 

the vacuum modulator (pass side low) will do this when

 

the diaphram ruptures.

 

Pull the line to it off -> ATF is seen thats the problem.

(sugg you start a new post if this isn't the answer)

its an 5 psd push button 4wd. Itss goin up for sale I don;t have the time to deal with it any more.

 

thanks for all the help guys!!

A stuck PCV valve will do that also. Causes enough smoke to be eligible as the car for the next James Bond movie.

 

Good call by Subyrally.