So the shop tells me that it is my distributer is the reason it wont start. It aint sending out the spark signal(but it recieves it). So who/what will work in a 93 Loyale 5spd. pushbutton 4wd? I need a distributer ASAP. What you got?

i might could have what you need, have a few around i think, and ive even got a hand polished ditsy for the ea82. ith any of the ditsies i have, you will need to swap over the seal at the top, cap, rotor, and plug at the bottom. i think there are like three different plug types, but they are all the same at the distributor end, so that is why youll need to swap those out.

 

let me know what you need and what not, obviously, if you want the polished ditsy, its a bit more than the others cause it took a while to shine up, lol.

 

i just want a cheap one that will work for another 100K. haha

 

i have cap and rotor etc. your sure it will work on my car? My car has been in the shop for like 2-3 weeks.

as long as what you have is an electronic distributor and not vac advance, it should be fine. i think, ive only ever played with te turbo engines, perhapse we should find a second opinion though. but if its what you need, i got a regular one floating around somewhere in my parts stash.

So the shop tells me that it is my distributer is the reason it wont start. It aint sending out the spark signal(but it recieves it). So who/what will work in a 93 Loyale 5spd. pushbutton 4wd? I need a distributer ASAP. What you got?

 

That makes no sense.

 

The distributor doesn't receive anything - it's an optical crank angle sensor. It tells the ECU what posistion the cam is in.

 

The ECU then sends a signal to the transistorized ignitor, which fires the coil, sending spark through the coil lead, through the distributor cap, through the rotor, and down the proper lead to the proper spark plug.

 

Chances are they have no idea what's wrong with your car if that's the explanation you got from them.

 

GD

All 87+ FI, and 86 SPFI distributors are the same. Some have different plugs but they are all 100% interchangable.

 

GD

well when i tested it myself before the shop did, it had power going to the cap but not to the plugs, so its definately disty related from what i could tell.

well when i tested it myself before the shop did, it had power going to the cap but not to the plugs, so its definately disty related from what i could tell.

 

If it's got spark to the cap, but not to the plugs then you need a cap, rotor, and new plugs/wires AT THE MOST. The distributor itself has nothing to do with the transmission of spark from the coil to the plugs - only in that it turns the rotor and directs spark at the appropriate tower on the cap.

 

GD

If it's got spark to the cap, but not to the plugs then you need a cap, rotor, and new plugs/wires AT THE MOST. The distributor itself has nothing to do with the transmission of spark from the coil to the plugs - only in that it turns the rotor and directs spark at the appropriate tower on the cap.

 

GD

 

i have to agree with that, as much as id like to sell you one of my spares cause i could use some $, i dont want to make you spend money you dont have to. if you are getting spark at the cap but not the plugs, then its most likely the cap, rotor and wires.

 

try giving it a good tune up and see if that fixes it, just from what you said, i think that should be all you need.

i already HAVE done all of that. after reading posts about ditzys failing i am 80% sure that it is the cause. I also experienced the jumping tach before hand. is there any way i could buy the ditzy from you, and trade it back for my money if that is not the problem?

i already HAVE done all of that. after reading posts about ditzys failing i am 80% sure that it is the cause. I also experienced the jumping tach before hand. is there any way i could buy the ditzy from you, and trade it back for my money if that is not the problem?

 

 

possibly. ill send you a pm or send me one, but for now, i am going to bed before i pass out.

12345

These guys above know a lot more than me, and I just want to add a +1 to what they are telling you - what they are saying is absolutely right on the mark. The spark comes out the coil wire, into the cap, then is directed through the rotor to the correct plug wire.

 

So if you've got spark going into the disty (coming out of disty end of the coil wire), and no plugs at all receiving spark, then all you've got are the cap and rotor. Buying the rest of the distributor isn't going to help that.

he said that the computer sends out the signal but the distriuter is not recieving it or something along those lines.

I bet he does not know about the ignition amplifier

(so called in my 89 FSM)

 

This power transistor is mounted on the coil bracket

(see below).

 

It amplifies the signal from the ECU and sends

the amplified signal to the coil.

 

See if the bracket is well grounded (a must)

 

If it is the problem they can be had for around 25 USD here.

 

he said that the computer sends out the signal but the distriuter is not recieving it or something along those lines.

 

The distributor does not receive any signals. The ECU doesn't send it any. So their statement makes no sense. The distributor is nothing more than a sensor - like the MAF, or the TPS, or any of those. It tells the ECU the location of the crank. It cannot receive anything.

 

The ignition amplifier on the other hand has been known to fail as Skip pointed out. Those do receive a signal from the ECU.

 

GD

another thing i was thinking, if you are getting spark at the disty, but its not leaving, have you checked to make sure the rotor is turning?

 

like i said, i can help you out with a distributor, but it really doesnt sound like its the problem. have you checked the driver side timing belt? sorry to sound like a broken record, but it really doenst sound like the disty is bad. but if you really want, i can sell you the one i have, not sure if i will buy it back cause i really needs the money right now, butthats another story.

 

before you go through the effort of buying the disty, check a few more things first. and listen to GD, he is rarely ever wrong.

he said that the computer sends

out the signal but the distriuter is not recieving it

or something along those lines.

 

I'm buying into the

" or something along those lines"

 

If the ECU is sending a signal, the distributor must

be turning.

The signal is so small it needs amplified before

being sent to the coil.

 

BUT

The loose screw is a real possibility,

if Newold means

spark when he says "power"

e.g.

"it had power going to the cap but not to the plugs,"

 

 

As a side line, even the Subaru stealer failed

to find my bad ig amp when it went bad.

all of the connections and basic things have been checked and re-checked. I will mention the ig. amp. to him. how can he check it?

Here is the original thread with the full story.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78794

all of the connections and basic things have been checked and re-checked. I will mention the ig. amp. to him. how can he check it?

 

You try another one because they are a dime a dozen at the junk yard, and rarely fail (but it does happen).

 

GD

As far as the ECU sending a signal to the disty, like others have stated, the disty provides position pulses to the ECU, though the ECU does provide power and ground to the disty for the opto sensor inside it. If the ECU doesn't see ignition pulses coming from the CAS in the disty then the CEL light should be ON and there should be a trouble code like 11 or 13 present. If there is a problem in this area there will be no spark from the coil.

 

A fairly common trouble for this kind of problem is due to a lack of power due to a blown fuse. The horn is on this circuit also so be sure the horn works and if it doesn't, check fuse #5 under the dash.

all of the connections and basic things have been checked and re-checked. I will mention the ig. amp. to him. how can he check it?

 

By looking for ignition pulses at the input and output.

In addition,Multimeter diode check function will show the transistor to be open or shorted if it is faulty.

Could it as simple as the gear at the bottom of the dist. not turning the rotor?

take the cap off crank the motor and see if the rotor turns.

screw, this was covered back on post #18

 

but

reading the old thread (linked to in #20),

there may be more going on here

than meets the eye.