Id like some opinions on the best carb for Ea81 1800 engine?

JDM Dual Hitachi's

 

GD

easy as

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8473

use the word weber

or

DGEV32/36

Bow Wow Auto Parts in Lake City has been a good source for the Weber 32/36. Ask for Dave, tell him you're building one of those Subarus.

 

 

As for a dual carb set up, good luck going out and finding one.

do you mean between the 32/36 and the 38?

in that case the search wouldnt help. the 32/36 is a stock replacement upgrade, and the 38 is for more lowend torque, with a loss in gas mileage.

i say 32/36.

i like my 32/36

i use the dgv which is a manual choke. the next one i'm going to use is the dgev which is the electric choke.

He asked for "some opinions" on the "best carb". Hehe.

 

The Weber is nice - use the seach function as skip sugested. Technically the Dual Hitachi's flow better, but no one that I know of has found a consistent source for them or the manifold they require.... too bad.

 

GD

Originally posted by GeneralDisorder

Technically the Dual Hitachi's flow better

 

How much better? Where can I find specs? I have a JDM dual-carb long block and I plan to put a DGES 38 and custom intake manifold on it. Knowing how the dual Hitachis and dual-carb manifold flows might help me get things set up right.

Not sure how much - but I know that a dual carb engine car will have more power than a weber 32/36 car. Have a look at someone's dual carb manifold. There's several people on the board that have them - ask around.

 

GD

I bet some dual weber 40 IDF's on some reworked VW manifolds would rock the pavement.

The problem with going with anything bigger than the 32/36 is that the heads just don't flow that much. The JDM race engines, and the dual carb motors had dual port heads, and without buying them from the aircraft guys, you really can't get the flow. All you'll do with huge carbs like that is blow your mileage to sh!t without getting anything from them. The carb is not the bottleneck - your cam and your heads are the bottleneck. The VW community have access to aftermarket heads that really flow - thus they can use the 40's with not problems.

 

The Weber 32/36 is good up to 125 HP or more on the EA81 with a regular hitachi manifold..... Ask Qman - he will tell you.

 

GD

I understand I may have to rejet my DGES 38 to avoid an over-rich mixture. The reason I got it instead of the DGEV 32/36 is (1) I have the JDM dual carb long block, which is supposed to breath better than the US spec. EA81 due to head and cam differences and (2) the synchronous carbs are supposed to offer more low-end grunt. Hopefully, I can get everything worked out.

the 32/36 is already over carbing the engine, but tuned right it is great for drivability economy and acceleration, most guys are running the 32/36 and we know what works and what has to be done there may be a better one but a lot of us are going with what works, i havn't heard anyone complain about a properly tuned weber 32/36.

i agree. with a carb thats too big. all you are doing is WASHING PARTS. the 32/36 is too big, or just right for these little low hp beasts. they use it on v6s for gods sake. 32/36 should be great for single ports.

GD, I'm glad you know my car better than me. I'm actaully quite happy with my 38 on stock EA81 heads. If you'd like to pay to dyno it to prove that it sucks, hey you're most welcome to do so. Oh yeah and it likes 2.5 psi but I guess that's impossible so maybe my guage needs re-calibration.

hey mike, i hear ya. the calibration, might be good though. i have one of those 9 dollar 15 psi guages from generic parts store, and i checked against a vac/pressure pump at work, ant mine is 1 lb off. 6is actually 5. the bowl is big enough to let a subaru run on prolly .5 lbs of pressure. my car will run for a couple minutes with the fuel line dis connected.

 

and when you use one of these on a harley, they dont use a pump, just gravity feed to keep the bowl full.

I was joking but I see how right you are. Guess I'll bring the guage to work and compare it to the certified aerospace gauge. My guage was expensive in it's day therefor I assumed...and I should know by now that's a dirty word in the QC dept. Sorry I didn't mean to get this off topic so bad.

I'm not saying the 38 won't work - just that a properly tuned 32/36 ought to be just as good. Perhaps better for gas mileage since you can run on just the one smaller barrel. Your torque curve on the 38 might be a bit different.

 

I was also mostly refering to snotrocket's comment about dual 40's..... WAY too big. A single 38 is still reasonable..... just a lot more work for diminishing returns I think. But hey - if you find one cheap why not?

 

I still say that on a stock EA81 even with an opened up exhaust, the 32/36 is already more than you can use. Remember - this carb is an UPGRADE for many V6's. On our little engines, it should be more than you need.

 

Also - as for the psi thing - I am only refering to what I have read - I haven't done any modification to my car as far as fuel pumps go, so we'll see when I do.

 

Dante - since you have the dual carb heads - you might make use of the 38 - I'm not sure.

 

GD

Originally posted by GeneralDisorder

A single 38 is still reasonable..... just a lot more work for diminishing returns I think. But hey - if you find one cheap why not?

 

Dante - since you have the dual carb heads - you might make use of the 38 - I'm not sure.

 

I got my new DGES 38 for the same price as a new DGEV 32/36.

Sure - but you have to figure the cost of the manifold - the 32/36 bolts to our existing manifolds..... making it a much cheaper option since they come with the adaptor plate (if you buy the kit). It's also a well documented upgrade, and time is money.

 

GD

Good point! I only decided to buy the DGES instead of the DGEV after I decided to spring for a custom intake.

 

Sorry if I inadvertently hijacked the thread. The DGEV 32/36 is the carb for a US Spec. EA81 and that was djbroadus' question.

hey all,

 

recently finished rebuilding a 32/36 DGAV (converted to EV) and am getting ready for install but have a plumbing question.

 

is there a H20 line to the Weber that needs to be tapped/threaded to complete installation? If so, from where to where?

 

does anyone have a FOTO of a proper finished install that I could take a peek at? I have read Cameron's page and still have some Qs identifiying some bits......

 

muchas gracias!!

 

shanonsf

There is no H20 line to the weber if you have removed the aqua choke.

 

GD

There's a couple write-ups of the proceedure on the Ultimate Repair Manual. Here's one of them: http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f35c591bdc2e0.78531895/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c648969ca18.53856943.art

right on people!!

 

pics are worth 1000 words!!

 

USMB rocks!

 

shanonsf

82 GLW (manipulated)