hooziewhatsit Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I have an 85 EA82, carbed, automatic, with wayyy too much play in the distributor shaft. Got another disty from the junkyard that felt fine until it drove for a while. Now it has slop in it also. GD has mentioned the Philbin Group in portland can rebuild them for ~$50. I just called them, and they quoted me $245 Anyone know of somewhere else to get it rebuilt? Thanks, -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 What's it take to rebuild yourself? I've never taken one apart before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I think the ~$50 price might have been for a re-bush versus a rebuild, but I'm sure GD will give you the full low-down later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 since you have an extra i'd try and source the bushings/bearings in it. something tells me this has come up before, did you try a search? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Yeah - ~$50 to $75 is for a rebush. You send them the disty dissasembled. It's around $35 to rebuild vac advance cans. $100 plus shipping should cover both those jobs easily. The rest of the stuff usually just needs a good cleaning and a few dabs of grease. Total rebuild probably includes a new pickup, rebuilt advance, complete dissasembly, and complete reassembly. Still a deal at $245 for all you would be getting. And replacement rebuilt assembly's are generally twice that at least. Best bet if you want cheap is to get a used one. Any good machine shop could rebush the shaft - that's a no-brainer to a machinist. Philbin is just nice because they do things like the vacuum advance pots. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Got another disty from the junkyard that felt fine until it drove for a while. Now it has slop in it also. GREASE! You can't run these things dry forever:dead: Pull the drive gear off and yank the shaft out - the grease in them gets old, dry and crusty. It probably wouldn't have failed if you had R&R'd it before you stuck it in the car GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 Thanks for the replies. I found a thread from Russ about replacing the bushing. If I can get it apart I'll see if I can go that route. Not much else to lose at this point. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54746 <cue 'The more you know' music> Good to know I can remove the drive gear and pull the shaft out. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 He's talking about the FI distributors - that won't work on the carbed units. The BUSHING is pressed in, and must be machined out and a new one installed. The FI's used pin bearings which are replaceable. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Huh. My Soob is not moving another inch till I regrease those bushings. Proly should have done that when I put my new JY disty in... Guess that's what I get for not owning cars with proper distributors or carbs on them the past several years. Got all rusty on proper procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 He's talking about the FI distributors - that won't work on the carbed units. The BUSHING is pressed in, and must be machined out and a new one installed. The FI's used pin bearings which are replaceable. GD ahh, ok. Didn't know there was that much difference between FI & carb. Guess I'll call them again tomorrow and get a new quote. Thanks, -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginger48 Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 NAPA has two different distributor bushings listed on their website for carbed 1985 EA82's. Part numbers DP107, and DP108. $6.69, and $5.49. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Is there a way to grease the EA-81? I will be working on the EA-82 this fall... will remember to grease the distributor. Don't mean to jump this thread but good info... After I read this post I pulled my ditzy from my 84 Brat as it died 2+ years ago, and found the ditzy shaft moved up and down. I did a search at Schucks auto, and looking at $164. ... so what do you think for an EA-81? any good? By the time a machine shop tears into my used distributor I would be in it at least $50, then bearings and if it is no good then.... I am about 1/2 way into the one I found on line at Schucks..... Cardone Distributor: Remanufactured; ImportIgnition Distributor: Remanufactured; With Module; With Hitachi DistributorWarranty: LTD LIFETIME REPL $164.99 $25.00 core I dug in my parts box, found an old Distributor and put it in and it started right up, smoked for about 5 minutes. but would like something a bit fresher... so not sure if I will send it in for rebushing or just get a new one... your thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 NAPA has two different distributor bushings listed on their website for carbed 1985 EA82's. Part numbers DP107, and DP108. $6.69, and $5.49. buy one of each of the bushings..most likely the smaller size will fit..but if it still "wobbles" from end to end, then generally speaking there is nothing that the home mechanic can do...the top bearing is a "roller or ball" bearing, same type and size used for the clutch pilot bearing is what I think they call it.($5)...about $10-$15 for parts, if you can do the job yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 buy one of each of the bushings..most likely the smaller size will fit..but if it still "wobbles" from end to end, then generally speaking there is nothing that the home mechanic can do...the top bearing is a "roller or ball" bearing, same type and size used for the clutch pilot bearing is what I think they call it.($5)...about $10-$15 for parts, if you can do the job yourself There are NO BEARINGS on carbed distributors. The bushing must be BORED out. It's not something you can do without machine tools. Don't make me post pictures.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 There are NO BEARINGS on carbed distributors. The bushing must be BORED out. It's not something you can do without machine tools. Don't make me post pictures.... GD No need to post pictures...But..Interesting what you said about the bearings.. all I know is from my own experiences from my 85/86 ea82 carbed, bought near new and still going strong..severals years ago I pulled the distributor and the top was a "bearing" and bottom was a bushing that had to be pressed out and replaced with another one with an inside diameter being slightly smaller...anyway this was on a Canadian car, maybe the US cars were different..I also wrote about my experiences when I did the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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