on my 95 legacy L wagon ,a/t 2.2 , 165,000mi , no codes, mpg is only 19 , new oem plugs, /wires, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned maf, cleaned egr, new cooplant temp, different tps, new crank sensor, new pvc, could i have the tps not adjusted right or needing 02 front sensor, or needing a new cat,

decided to change 02 sensor, can't seem to get wrench from top side 22 mm ,whats the best way to change it,

finally got it out , it was a aftermarket 02 sensor ,and really bad looking , put a used 02 oem with 25,000mi on sensor, will see how it runs now, and mpg,

put a used 02 oem with 25,000mi on sensor, will see how it runs now, and mpg,

 

Rootin' for you here! Let us know how it goes after a few tanks of gas.

 

Good luck!

also adjusted tps alittle , still thinking that it is out of adjustment,

adjusted tps no affect, newer 02 , still getting gas smell out exhaust

maybe pull a plug and see what it looks like......

plugs are new and look good, ngk also oem wires,

Leaking injector(s)? Or very poor pattern?

 

You could try E85. At least then your exhaust would smell like a still or a bottle of vodka rather than gasoline!

first, please cease putting your nose in front of the tailpipe:slobber:

 

no codes? you would think you would be throwing one. how about resetting the ECU? if you don't have a wet plug then the cat is maybe suspect. maybe injectors are clogged? how does it run, idle?

idles fine starts good, the smell is pretty strong just standing behind the car a few feet,

on my 95 legacy L wagon ,a/t 2.2 , 165,000mi , no codes, mpg is only 19 , new oem plugs, /wires, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned maf, cleaned egr, new cooplant temp, different tps, new crank sensor, new pvc, could i have the tps not adjusted right or needing 02 front sensor, or needing a new cat,

 

check the mileage on a 300 mile hiway drive. that will tell you how well it is working. if your mileGE IS ONLY 19, MAYBE IT'S BECAUSE YOU ONLY DRIVE 2 MILES TO WORK EACH WAY EVERY DAY. i don't really know, but it all depends on how you drive, where you drive and ......

your CEL does function, right? it maybe running rich b/c of an exhaust leak before the cat?

 

"I could be wrong-but that's just my opinion"-Dennis Miller

there is no way i could get 300 miles out of a tank of gas, we drove it all over this weekend 225 and had to fill up 14gal all small towns, no hills, driving the speed limit, i have code reader and showing no codes,

please explain , long term short term fuel bank, according to my code reader , the numbers are way off from each other,

since the injector;s bad pluged or bad, wal-mart has a machine that they hook up and run injector cleaner though it like 20 bucks, not sure where they hook it up at, and maybe the quick lube place also does it, would this maybe clean them out ,thanks,

please explain , long term short term fuel bank,

I'm assuming you're referring to "fuel trim". That's the way the ECU compensates for a rich or lean condition, by changing the injector pulse width (how long the injectors are open). The short term trim is quite immediate. Long term trims are developed and stored based on what the ECU has "learned" about the short term changes.

 

 

according to my code reader , the numbers are way off from each other,

How about telling us of any codes, and what the LTFT and STFT readings are? Make sure you include any (+) or (-) signs.

ok, here she goes, p0106 map sensor, short trim fuel, bank 1 - 000% , bank3 - short trim, -029% long trim fuel, bank 1- 006% , bank 3 long trim -021% , , 02 support , cat support, heated cat not support, fuel system monitor complete, misfire support, timing 20 degree at idle,

ok, here she goes, p0106 map sensor, short trim fuel, bank 1 - 000% , bank3 - short trim, -029% long trim fuel, bank 1- 006% , bank 3 long trim -021% [...]

I'd start with the P0106. The following thread shows where the sensor is located, and talks about how vacuum hose problems can lead to the code.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813

 

I can't be certain, since I'm not sure if some of the " - " in your post are dashes or negative signs. Assuming I'm reading it right, the large negative percentages for "bank 3" short term (-29%) and long term (-21%) fuel trims indicate the ECU is trying to lean down a rich condition (by narrowing the injector pulse). Make sure that the vacuum hose(s) connected to the fuel pressure regulator (also covered in the above-linked thread) are okay. Excessive fuel pressure or leaky injectors can cause similar symptoms.

ok, i have replaced the map sensor 3 times and still getting the code, yes they are - not dashes,mine has no in line filter connected to the hose coming from the map sensor,so what your saying is that the map sensor is causing all the problems,

ok, i have replaced the map sensor 3 times and still getting the code, [...]so what your saying is that the map sensor is causing all the problems,

No, I suggested that you deal with the cause of the P0106 first -- that isn't the same as saying that the MAP sensor is causing all your problems. I provided the link to a thread that talked about vacuum hose issues causing the code (not the MAP sensor itself), and certainly replacing the sensor three times without improvement would seem to verify that isn't the cause.

 

I'd again suggest that you determine the vacuum hoses are properly connected, intact, and not restricted -- that goes in particular for the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator, but look elsewhere as well. Low vacuum, or the MAP reporting that incorrectly, will cause the ECU to enrich the mixture. TPS problems, especially if the ECU senses that the throttle position and MAP sensor output don't seem to agree, can also sometimes trigger P0106.

ok,i could have the vacuum hoses mixed up , do you have a pic of how the vacuum hoses should be connected , from the map sensor,

ok,i could have the vacuum hoses mixed up , do you have a pic of how the vacuum hoses should be connected , from the map sensor,

Vacuum hose info was sent via email.

 

If the problem hasn't been resolved yet, it may be time to use the scan tool to read the fuel trims again. You can often find a leaky injector by checking balance. Let the engine warm, and get short term and long term trim readings. Then electrically disconnect one injector; the fuel trim readings should change, going more positive -- when they stabilize, make note of the readings. Reconnect the injector, then pull the connector on the next one. Again note the STFT and LTFT readings once they're stable. Do the same for the remaining two injectors.

 

Compare the trim percentages for each injector when disconnected. If disconnecting one in particular caused the trims to go noticably less towards the positive, it's likely leaking. If two are leaky, there will still be a change with each, but it will be less noticable. If the change is about the same on all the injectors, the test isn't definitive; they could all be somewhat leaky (but that's unlikely), or fine and the problem is probably due to something else.

ok will do , i also have a 97 legacy L awd a/t wagon 2.2 motor , that i could compare to , if the injectors are leaking can i put a good cleaned used injectors in it,, or repair mine

ok will do , i also have a 97 legacy L awd a/t wagon 2.2 motor , that i could compare to , if the injectors are leaking can i put a good cleaned used injectors in it,, or repair mine

Sure, injectors could be replaced with known good or repaired ones, but lets try to diagnose the problem before substituting parts and maybe confusing the issue. The scan tool you have should make that possible.

 

If you take the readings as I described above, let us know what you get for STFT and LTFT with all injectors connected, and then when one at a time is disconnected. Make sure to note whether the percentages are negative or positive in each case. Once we have that info, it should be possible to determine what the next step is.