86 GL station wagon. 1.8 carb 2wd

 

car suddenly got louder.

one of the studs and nut was loose on the exhaust manifold. it wouldnt tighten up.

its stripped where it screws into the manifold(not the stud, the manifold)

 

any way to fix it without getting the hole tapped out?

maybe some self tapping screws or something?

 

thanks in advance,

Bill

Sounds like the threads in the head are stripped (nothing screws into the manifold- it's just held on by the stud and nut). You will have to put in a Heli-coil or drill it out and retap to a larger size. It can be done on the car.

Andy

yeah the hole in the head is stripped, it needs retapped or heli-coiled.

would jb weld hold?

would jb weld hold?

this seems to be a good example of "what do you have to loose". so even i, the known JB Weld cynic, give an approving nod to the idea.

 

i think 7/16" threaded stock will thread into the hole as well. that's probably the easiest non-JB Weld solution. cut to length, thread through, and use a nut. or i suppose you could try a 7/16" bolt.

thanks a lot for the info.

 

on a different note, good to see WV in here. i was born & bred in southern WV.

 

thanks again,

 

Bill

I used some "weldit" (generic JB type crap)on a log manifold in a mitsubishi.......

worked fine.

would jb weld hold?

 

If there are some threads left in the hole it might have a pretty good chance of holding. If it's totally hogged out, might not do so well. I would try it.

 

Andy

would jb weld hold?

NO IT WILL NOT, I was the person who did this and it did not hold up to the heat, it and the stud came out in one big fat clump when I went to tighten the header up. I let it cure and harden and I even told it I loved it

NO IT WILL NOT, I was the person who did this and it did not hold up to the heat, it and the stud came out in one big fat clump when I went to tighten the header up. I let it cure and harden and I even told it I loved it

 

love it all you want but never tell it. that's where you ************ed up.

Just run a 7/16 x 18 tap into the existing hole and replace the stud with a peice of all-thread cut to the size you need.

 

JB weld will not do it. Something like Devcon would do it, but to do it right it would require more work than tapping it so it's not a viable option.

 

GD

jb welded a bolt in there yesterday and let it cure ovenight, tightened the nut up this morning and its held for a couple hours of driving so far.

 

probably wont hold long so its good to know the tap sizes.

thanks yall,

Bill

jb welded a bolt in there yesterday and let it cure ovenight, tightened the nut up this morning and its held for a couple hours of driving so far.

 

probably wont hold long so its good to know the tap sizes.

thanks yall,

Bill

 

Tap the hole for 7/16 course thread. You don't evven need ot drop the exhaust or drill the hole. Just run the tap right in with some oil. Then buy a $2.00 chevy/dodge/ford exhaust stud and nut. (better than threaded rod stock).

 

You're done and it will never pop out like you're JB weld will. The threads may strip eventally if you take you're exhaust off often. But this fix still leaves you enough meat to helicoil in the future if it does.

Then buy a $2.00 chevy/dodge/ford exhaust stud and nut. (better than threaded rod stock).

 

Depends on the all-thread you buy. You can buy grade 8 all-thread (hell - you can get left-handed tool steel if you wanted it). Most is grade 5 though which should work just fine. I make studs from metric all-thread all the time since it's difficult to source them in the US.

 

GD

Depends on the all-thread you buy. You can buy grade 8 all-thread (hell - you can get left-handed tool steel if you wanted it). Most is grade 5 though which should work just fine. I make studs from metric all-thread all the time since it's difficult to source them in the US.

 

GD

 

Ah, but you probably source your bar stock from Fastenal or somewhere industrial. The threaded stock at Autozone, Home Depot, or the local hardware store is crap.

 

Plus If it isn't cut and beveled properly at the end that threads into the head, it can booger you're brand new threads. Best advice for home mechanics is to buy a stud, rather than try to make them.

I've found that 7/16x14 works the best I have those studs threaded into 3 of my EA82 engines and they hold very well

Ah, but you probably source your bar stock from Fastenal or somewhere industrial. The threaded stock at Autozone, Home Depot, or the local hardware store is crap.

 

Plus If it isn't cut and beveled properly at the end that threads into the head, it can booger you're brand new threads. Best advice for home mechanics is to buy a stud, rather than try to make them.

 

All true. I just grab the size I need, cut a chunk off in the band-saw, and bevel the ends on the belt sander..... Takes me 2 minutes. But you do need access to the tools to make it happen the right way and make it quick and simple. I could do it with a hacksaw and a dremel but it would probably be quicker to buy them for most folks.

 

GD

jb weld held almost 2 weeks, but time to tap .

 

is 7/16 the next size up or is that the same size it is now?

 

just making sure i get the right tap & stud the first time since its probably stripped out prettty good.

 

thanks,Bill

No - 7/16 is the next size up from the stock threads.

 

7/16 (coarse) works well as there is no drilling required.

 

Get two taps - cut the taper off one of them and use it as a bottoming tap to get the last few threads cut.

 

Then use all-thread or buy studs to finish the job right.

 

GD