torxxx Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 when u say u flushed it did u use the prestone junk or did u use high pressure water? One other thing, do u have a laser temperature gun? I've learned to NEVER trust subaru gauges they never read right. According to my temp gauge, 3/4 temp is supposedly when my 185F thermostat opens, but when the car was 10 years younger same degree thermo opened at 1/2 temp.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 been a week or 2 and it seems to be doing pretty good. but.. been losing a slight amount of coolant so crawled under the car with a flashlight tonight and finally found where it seems to be coming from. it looks as though its coming from where the waterpump bolts up. its not coming from the weepholes. since my timing belt covers are off, i can see pretty good and it appears to be coming from the very bottom of the waterpump against the motor. would a little leak here cause the slight fluctuation in my temperature? i guess i need to change the waterpump or is this a case where i may just need to put a new gasket on my old waterpump? thanks, Bill .... i did not get a chance to stop by Subarus R US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 I'd replace the waterpump if it's pretty old. If it's under 30K-40K I think you can get away with just a gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted August 19, 2008 Author Share Posted August 19, 2008 yeah, might as well replace it as long as i'm in there. i just hate replacing what appears to be OEM parts with aftermarket stuff. oh well, 1 more old spare part to put in the back. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Check the o-ring that seals the inlet pipe on the water pump. Lots cheaper and easier to replace than the pump or gasket. Chances are it is old and hard, and the seal got broken when you replaced the radiator. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Check the o-ring that seals the inlet pipe on the water pump. Lots cheaper and easier to replace than the pump or gasket. Chances are it is old and hard, and the seal got broken when you replaced the radiator. Good luck. i believe that may be the source of the leak. the small amount it loses pools in a small recess below the waterpump and drips out underneath behind the inner timing belt cover. the inlet pipe is right against the top of the inner timing belt cover so no room to get my fingers in there but i noticed the pipe had a little play in it where the o ring would be. anybody have the part number or size for the o ring? i know the one i take off will be too out of sorts to compare and would be nice to get it first try. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 They are a shocking price at the dealer, but $5.00 might just be worth spending to save the time and hassle of trying to find the right one elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Just take the pipe with you and find one that fits on the end. You're gonna have to take it off anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted September 5, 2008 Author Share Posted September 5, 2008 finally had time to change the o ring. the Napa part # is BK 727-2216(i had them take one out of a waterpump box that had one included and match it) also reflushed everything and re-installed a 180^ thermostat.(thats what had been in it the first few years i had the car) test drove it and it seemed to do real good . nothing left unchanged but the waterpump so if it dont act right now i'll change it. it had still been running within limits the last few weeks {never got above 1/2) just didnt like the way the temp would jump under slight loads. thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Good to know it's doing real well!! I'm about to do the water pump, coolant hoses, and timing belt in my Impreza. Always feels good to put mechanical knowledge to practical use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 ...No need to get a double row radiator unless you have a turbo which runs hotter than non aspirated... . ...or you Live at the Caribbean Tropics... My White Wagon was OverHeatin` Untill I Installed there a "Made in Honduras" Double Row Metallic Radiator, I Run it Without Thermostat and Without the Heather (I used a 5/8" U-Turn Hose to Bypass that) so the Temp Gauge Usually remains at ¼ and just in Hot Weather and Under Load or Heavy Traffic, Barely Reaches ½ ...and the mileage on this car is unknown. was stopped at about 170k and may not have been working for years before i got it 3 or 4 years ago... Well... When any Car wich have Coolant in the Radiator, is Stopped for more tan six months without starting the Engine to get Fluids to move and Warm it, the First thing to get Damage is the Radiator, `cos the Coolant sat makes some sort of Clogging, becomes like Crystal in some Cases... The Question is: When you did the many Cooling System Flushes, did you leave Opened the Heather Control? ... I Mean to Slide the Control to the Hotter Position. Doing that, the Water flush will go Thru the Heather core too, if not, some dirt will remain trapped there... :-\ ... If you Already did that, then I have an Answer to you: The Fan Clutch is Failing. Let me Explain: My White Wagon was Overheating too Much (Long Time Ago, around 1994) then after many Head Gaskets Changed, my Dad Discovered that the Main Fan`s Clutch was too Loose... He did Removed That and Fixed it, by Twisting a Piece of Metal, attached to one Side of the Fan Clutch, to the Plastic Fan itself. And Voilá! ... Problem Solved! It is a Very Cheap Fixing Idea, Woth Try! Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 Really, Your Subie has the Temp Behaviour of a Failing Fan Clutch... I Suggest to Fix it making it Solid (Without Clutch) and You`ll Notice the Difference... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokebill Posted September 14, 2008 Author Share Posted September 14, 2008 thanks, i probably will end up making the fan solid.(cant seem to find a listing for an aftermarket fan clutch anyhow) it seems to be holding solid now since i replaced the o ring and reinstalled a 180^ thermostat. i think my latest cooling problems were probably due to the leaking o ring . the leaking caused the pressure to drop (kinda like a bad radiator cap) which changed the boiling point. i think. sound logical? its been a couple weeks now and it holds steady even under hard heavy loads so..... thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Well... To Make a Fan Solid (Without Clutch) is Something to Consider... Remember that the Fan Clutch might feel Solid when Engine is Off and Cool, and when it comes Hot and Working, the Fan Clutch might Fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.