I haven't come accross this in any of my reading...

 

My FSM says, after you install new head gaskets, you need to start the engine, let it warm up fully, then shut it down, let it cool, and re-torque the head bolts.

 

The packaging from the new (Fel-Pro) head gaskets says they never need to be re-torqued.

 

Do I really need to do this re-torque procedure? It's really a pain in the a$$. I've done it once already, and had to tear the engine down again.

 

Thanks!

RedLance

Huh? Aren't all the head bolts accessible once the cam covers are off??

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5057&highlight=head+and+retorque

 

I'm not a fan of tearing it all apart again either.

Setright: They are, but not easily at all. I ended up using a 3/8 drive socket, with a built in u-joint , an extension, then another u-joint, and another extension, and I still had to loosen the engine mounts, and jack it up, to clear the frame rail.

 

Plus, a couple of them are partially covered by the cam shaft supports, so you can't use a regular socket.

 

This is all on an EA82...EJ22's might be different.

 

Thanks again!

RedLance

I've done many HG on many different vehicles. If the Gasket Maker says not to re-torque, I don't. No one has returned their car, or complained of faulty workmanship.

 

When I did the HGs on my EA-82 engine, stated right on the gaskets, "Do not re-torque". So I didn't.

I've done EA82 head gaskets without re-torquing with no problems. It's important that everything is clean, including the threads on the head bolts. The a drop of oil on the threads and on the washer before you torque. I've used the copper gasket sealant with good results, it's suposed to allow the head and gasket a minute amount of movement for thermal action. Check the head surface to be sure it's flat, I think they allow 15 thou. I purchased a CCR engine and they didn't reccomend re-torqueing, not sure what they do to the gaskets/heads.

no re- torqueing neccessary with the new fel-pro gaskets,,,make sure every thing is clean and the torque wrench is accurate...3 0r 4 lbs.of extra torque wouldn't hurt either

XSNRG: I haven't looked up any torquing procedures in the FSM yet, but about the oil on the threads. Unless is specifically calls for oil on the threads, DON'T put oil there when you are torquing bolts. It will result in an incorrect torque spec because it is easier to turn the bolt, so it will be tighter than w/o oil.