September 1, 200817 yr I am planning on buying a subaru: Currently looking at a 1996 Legacy wagon L AWD 2.2l 13x,xxx miles Any suggestions on things I need to pay special attention to when inspecting the car before purchase?
September 1, 200817 yr do a search here...you will find tons....but the notable things are maintaince items first of all....timing belt, flushes, oil changes etc...also not that the 2.2 is prone to it but check the headgaskets over...have they ever been changed? also check for torque bind....get the car up to operating temp. and go to an open parking lot and do a series of figure eights and see if you feel any binding......also check to see if you hear the wheel bearings howling at all...
September 2, 200817 yr If you are looking around the 10 year old mark, follow these guidelines. They have served me well. 1. Stay away from the first generation 2.5's. They have head gasket issues and although they can be fixed and many have, I wouldn't trust one that I didn't do myself. 2. Stick with the AWD 5 speed manual transmissions. No risk of torque bind, and they are near bulletproof. A little better mileage but the difference isn't much. Sportier as well with the 2.2 only putting out about 135 HP. 3. The 2.2 (EJ22) is an excellent engine. Of these the best are the 96 and older models, and of those the 90 through 94 are arguably simpler due to their OBD-I ECU. If you can find an EJ22 Turbo they are a lot more fun than the non turbo - a bit more complex, but no less reliable. Other than that, take a look at what models were available and search accordingly. Don't be hasty with your purchase - there are lots of good deals out there and you definitely don't want to pay too much. When I look for an AWD 5MT 90 to 94 Legacy in the NW I look to pay no more than $1000. Last one I got was $750 and needed a water pump. It was immaculate and low mileage. Here's a site with a lot of info on models over the 90's years. http://www.cars101.com/ GD
September 2, 200817 yr [...]2. Stick with the AWD 5 speed manual transmissions. No risk of torque bind, and they are near bulletproof.[...]No clutch pack or "C" duty solenoid, but what about the viscous coupler?
September 2, 200817 yr No clutch pack or "C" duty solenoid, but what about the viscous coupler? What about it? It's a trade-off either way. Are you saying he should get a 2WD? The VC's are VERY reliable. I've heard of a LOT more cases of duty C and clutch pack failure. Anything *can* break - it's just that in the vast preponderance of cases they don't. GD
September 2, 200817 yr What about it? It's a trade-off either way. Are you saying he should get a 2WD? The VC's are VERY reliable. I've heard of a LOT more cases of duty C and clutch pack failure. Anything *can* break - it's just that in the vast preponderance of cases they don't.No, I'm not suggesting 2WD, just questioning whether "No risk of torque bind" is a reasonable statement. It may be a low risk with a manual, but it still isn't a bad idea to check for it, and a potential buyer should be aware of that. A '96 car with about 130k miles on has had less than average use. Anyone considering a 13 year old model might be looking at ones with yet higher mileage, and shouldn't assume that even parts at low-risk haven't failed.
September 2, 200817 yr I'll throw my .2 in here. My 97 OB MT 5spd has 260K on it No torque bind. Got a 96 AT Imp with 180K has torque bind. My wife's 99 AT Imp 160K no torque bind. So far the MT has it!
September 2, 200817 yr If I were looking at that car, I would check/look for.... oil leaks exhaust leaks strut condition wheel bearing noise CV joint and CV boot condition clutch shudder (if manual trans) torque bind (if auto trans) engine noise (ticking) "check engine" light rust Also, make sure all the tires are the same size and brand.
September 6, 200817 yr If you are looking around the 10 year old mark, follow these guidelines. They have served me well. 1. Stay away from the first generation 2.5's. They have head gasket issues and although they can be fixed and many have, I wouldn't trust one that I didn't do myself. ALL of the 2.5 even the phase 2 are junk and the head gaskets leak believe me I have one!!:-\
September 6, 200817 yr ALL of the 2.5 even the phase 2 are junk and the head gaskets leak believe me I have one!!:-\ Yes - but those are newer than the original poster was looking at. GD
September 6, 200817 yr No, I'm not suggesting 2WD, just questioning whether "No risk of torque bind" is a reasonable statement. It may be a low risk with a manual, but it still isn't a bad idea to check for it, and a potential buyer should be aware of that. A '96 car with about 130k miles on has had less than average use. Anyone considering a 13 year old model might be looking at ones with yet higher mileage, and shouldn't assume that even parts at low-risk haven't failed. Well, I would recomend a 2WD Soob if you are not in a area that sees a lot of bad winter weather. They get better MPG and less moving parts. However the AWD makes the Soob what it is a bad wetaher which is GREAT!!
September 6, 200817 yr Well, I would recomend a 2WD Soob if you are not in a area that sees a lot of bad winter weather. They get better MPG and less moving parts. However the AWD makes the Soob what it is a bad wetaher which is GREAT!!If the Woodinville that JustinUtherChris is at is in the state of Washington, they definitely get snow there.
September 6, 200817 yr If the Woodinville that JustinUtherChris is at is in the state of Washington, they definitely get snow there. Yes, interior Washington state would have winter weather. If he has to drive in it AWD would be a definite plus!
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