began my LSD conversion today.....using snap-on e10 socket, and a hammer punch, it would not bust loose. sprayed penetrate oil in it, soak....try again. now the head of the axle stub bolt is broke off.

 

I suppose somehow it will have to be drilled (hardened steel here). that was on the one side.

Tryed to remove the other sides stub bolt, sprayed, used hammer punch and notta. that one is gonna bust too, I left it alone.....

 

anybody else have this and what did you do to get the crappy open diff guts out when you cant even pop out the stub shafts.....

disappointed.....:dead:

Easiest just to find another open diff. They are extremely plentiful.

 

Otherwise you will have to punch and drill the rest of the head off and the stub should slip over the broken bolt shaft. Then you can deal with getting the bolt out once the stub is off.

 

GD

also i have 2 good raw stubs ans 2 good bollts...i just need get this out to put new in.

Then cut the stubs off with a die grinder so you have better access to work in there. A sharp drill bit and some lube will cut through the heads. Just make sure you center punch them REALLY close to center. You may have to sharpen your drill bit a few times but you will prevail if you work smart.

 

GD

Easiest just to find another open diff. They are extremely plentiful.

 

GD

 

Unfortunately, not so much so in Iowa. And if you find one in Iowa, most likely the rear axles have rust-welded onto the stubs

 

Brent, I have another spare we can try if needed....

take a grinder with cutting disc,cut as close as you can to the main body on the stub.the bolt is tapered kinda so when you cut low enough the stub itself will come off.then you just have to deal with the bolt.whenever we have cut the stubs off the pressure on the bolt is released and most times came out with some vice grips.cheers, brian

 

we have also tried heat before,do not really know if it helped or not.

yeah, we've done that like 4 times now? and it always comes off easily. Sometimes the vibrations from the grinder will loosen the bolt and you can unscrew it using the stub as the grip - if you don't cut all the way through the bolt in the center. Imagine cutting a bagel or donut all the way around into the center but not cutting the "hole" in half. We've never actually had to drill.

got the stubs out both sides, had to drill one side, the other finally came loose like it is supposed to.

Question: what is the torque tightness on the ring gear bolts?

and what is the torque for the stub bolts.....

 

edit for Torque specs i found are as follows:

51-58 ft. lb ring gear bolts

6.5-8.7 ft. lb for bearing cap side bolts

23-27 ft. lb for the stub bolts E10 socket

14-19 ft. lb for the rear cover

51-58 ft. lb for the carrier bracket bushing mount.

yay lsd soon done.

goingto grind the caSE AND THROW TOGETHER SUNDAY...

Edited October 5, 200817 yr by bheinen74