John needed a little help on lifting and getting his Subaru running right. So I let him bring his rig over and stuffed it in the Shop, My buddy Rick also helped out, and this is what happened.

 

Before

 

And now with 3/4's of a lift

 

 

The rear is sitting on a jack still, one strut hated all of us and did want to be on this car anymore so we got to get one more strut and then She is GTG......(good to go)

 

 

Maybe tomorrow I we can get a shot of it outside the shop, there aint enough room to get back far enough to get a good shot.

 

Jeff

I dont like the idea of the tube to lift the struts.it looks like they would punch though,especially the way I drive-which may include some air time:grin:

I dont like the idea of the tube to lift the struts.it looks like they would punch though

 

How many lifted ones have you had?

 

I've seen you have a lot of stock ones with the fenders cut, but once you have one that's lifted with the Square tube then I may take some of what you say and think about it, till then...................

 

Mike, Rick, Me, Chad, And Cody all have the 2" tube lifts and none, have ever had an issue with the blocks....ever, Mike even jumped his and no problem, his wheel bearing went but not the lift blocks.

 

Jeff

Edited January 10, 200917 yr by one eye

its funny, because i was just about to ask how the performance of those blocks was.........guess i know now:lol:....cheers, brian

You're always hookin' someone up with help, way cool!

 

There's three tubes per front strut, right?

Seems plenty strong, and the simplicity is a +

 

I'm diggin' on the 2ft+ screwdriver laying on the floor. I need one of those.

so with the tubes hows the camber?

so with the tubes hows the camber?

 

Not to bad, 3eyedwagon cut some at 15deg and there is no camber issue. These ones are straigh so they will kinda ware funny but for the most part it's not a problem.

 

Jeff

This is what he drew up if you can read it you'll get the idea

 

Jeff

Another Soob gettin' more clearance.

 

One day I'll do it to mine. The $$ I was thinking of spending on it got applied to a 100 amp alt for the Soob, and new tires for the daily driver, which were needed really bad.

 

So you guys just used sections of tube? Looks like about 1/4" wall thickness?

 

I keep wanting to just do a homegrown 2" for a tad more clearance. Not to interested in huge tires as I don't want to loss too much low end. And I like the stance my Soob has being all compact with the suspension arms being all that really sticks down, but a little more space between my rockers and the rocks would be nice.

But I really like Scott's lifts, they just look so nice.

 

Though for an EA81 it's only two support points at the struts....

 

Now I'm just thinking out loud.

Another Soob gettin' more clearance.

 

One day I'll do it to mine. The $$ I was thinking of spending on it got applied to a 100 amp alt for the Soob, and new tires for the daily driver, which were needed really bad.

 

So you guys just used sections of tube? Looks like about 1/4" wall thickness?

 

I keep wanting to just do a homegrown 2" for a tad more clearance. Not to interested in huge tires as I don't want to loss too much low end. And I like the stance my Soob has being all compact with the suspension arms being all that really sticks down, but a little more space between my rockers and the rocks would be nice.

But I really like Scott's lifts, they just look so nice.

 

Though for an EA81 it's only two support points at the struts....

 

Now I'm just thinking out loud.

 

Under your rear seat in your car there should be a little plug in the middle, if you pull that off there is a 19mm bolt if you tighten that all the way it will pick up the back of your car, I don't know if you've done this before or not, but I'll keep going with this. anyways, If you put 2" blocks in the front and your torsion bars up all the way up in the rear, it will sit flat and about 2" higher, we did this with my buddy mikes rig and this is what it looks like

 

Again there is no lift in the rear just the torsion bars and 2 2" blocks on each side in the front.

 

That's a nice easy way to lift it and not put any extra stress on the rear axles of the EA81's

 

Hope that might give you a bit of an Idea for a little lift!!

 

Jeff

Oh and he is running 195/75/14 on it too

 

Jeff

Oh yeah I did the cranking of the bolt about 10 minutes after getting it home when I bought it and discovered it in the owners manual. (have adjusters on the front too)

 

I'm also running 195/75/14 on mine. Rubs a hair when the inside front wheel is fully compressed on a cranked turn, but only a tad. I could run one size up on it with only slight body mod in the front wheelwells. (Had some on but went down one size to simplify things for the time being)

Little bit of, BFH?

 

Reality is it's as big as I really want to go to keep some low end. So I could get away with no lift, but think it would just be smart to do some lift to it.

Though I would like to throw on some "entry level sized" Swampers.

 

Hope you guys get that stubborn strut taken care of and we get some action shots.

So this lifting technique if diff from like the sjr kits? What parts does it require and how hard is it?

So this lifting technique if diff from like the sjr kits? What parts does it require and how hard is it?

 

6 2x2x2 blocks for the front and 2 2x2x2 blocks in the rear, you should drop the rear diff one inch too, but there has only been one issue with the rigs that don't have the rear diff dropped, later today We'll get some pics of how we do the rear, other wise they are close to what Scotts are. There arn't really to many differences in a 2" lift.

 

Jeff

Actually the blocks are 1 inch wide. I tried to have them 2 inches but they don't fit.

 

And for TeamCF: This lift is incredibly cheap, unless your struts are crap (like mine). The amount of $$$ I have invested into it is about 5 dollars for nuts and bolts. I picked up the 2x2 tubing for free and borrowed a chop saw. Then just drill the holes and you are done.

Edited January 10, 200917 yr by Markus56

From what I've seen the cars with the straight cut blocks don't really have horrible camber once their suspension settles from the initial tampering with. The angle cut blocks like in that drawing are just as simple to make, but are a bit harder to install. I would reccomend cutting angled blocks if you are planning to use the car on roads alot, they'll save a little wear on your tires.

 

As for these "pulling through"; you are dealing with 2x2 steel square tubing to drop the 3 mounting positions of the struts a whopping 2 inches. Compare this to the numerous cars with 2, 4, and even 6 inches of lift using the same material, but, instead lifting vital engine, and transmission crossmembers. Each time you double the length of the lift block; you effectively quadruple the force being exherted on the bolting point. In short, I wouldn't worry much about dropping the struts using square tubing. Everyone out there with their entire drivetrain dropped x ammount of inches has alot more to worry about.

 

I think we'll all be ok.

Actually the blocks are 1 inch wide. I tried to have them 2 inches but they don't fit.

 

And for TeamCF: This lift is incredibly cheap, unless your struts are crap (like mine). The amount of $$$ I have invested into it is about 5 dollars for nuts and bolts. I picked up the 2x2 tubing for free and borrowed a chop saw. Then just drill the holes and you are done.

 

hehe

Meaning: I just have to get off my butt and do it.

Even buying the steel I could do this cheap, I know a steel yard thats just perfect near me. They have "used" meaning small pieces left over from cutting a 20' length in half or whatever. And they sell it cheap.

Bought the 8 feet of 2"x3" I used in my front bumper for like $14. (thinner wall though than I would use for a lift)

Hey CF,

 

aren't you a 2nd gen guy? I thought I'd seen you always sporting the gen 2s. Just wondering, because if so; I wouldn't try this style suspension lift on a gen 2. The shorter axles just get too stressed at such angles, in my opinion anyways. You'd really need to do a full lift to get much life out of your axles.

 

Go for it on a 3rd gen, you know how plentiful they are.

 

Save the gen 2s for picking up the ladies!

Hey CF,

 

aren't you a 2nd gen guy? I thought I'd seen you always sporting the gen 2s. Just wondering, because if so; I wouldn't try this style suspension lift on a gen 2. The shorter axles just get too stressed at such angles, in my opinion anyways. You'd really need to do a full lift to get much life out of your axles.

 

Go for it on a 3rd gen, you know how plentiful they are.

 

Save the gen 2s for picking up the ladies!

 

hehe, my EA81 is far from being able to pick up the ladies (title says it all). Besides my Fiancee might not like that.

 

I'd drop the diff and the engine as well. Didn't know they only did a suspension lift on his one. Thought it was a full body lift.

My only concern with mine would be the struts up front only have two points of mounting. So I'd still have to build up strut spacers with more support.

I'd just have to use a bit more steel.

The lift is done!

 

pics later

 

 

:banana::banana:

 

are those 14inch pugs in this 1st picture.

Not to talk for him, but I think he told me that those are 14" six lugs off of a Dodge D50.

yeah. 14's of a Dodge D50

 

 

yeah. 14's of a Dodge D50

 

Very nice! I think this is exactly the route I'm going with mine. Looks like you didn't have to do any trimming/bashing with those 185 14's on the front: how 'bout the rear? Those rear pics of the lift will be great. Do you guys usually have the struts cranked up or down with that lift? :-\

Here are the pics!!

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff