2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Well, it was Tuesday morning (20 Jan 09), put the kids in the car, started off, noticed the windows were unusually foggy this morning... It never cleared, It started to smell, Cleaned the windows while dropping kids at school, Popped radiator cap to keep system from building pressure, Still foggy, Foggier, Ah, crap, I gotta do a heater core!!! I have the camera at work, anybody need pics of stuff I may come across? Let me know...soon. I am going out to drain the coolant now. Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Try adding some stop leak like Barr's or the clear liquid kind,(can't remember the name). I have stopped heater core leaks this way. I had the same problem as you, interior fogging of the windows, plus the smell of antifreeze. The stop leak actually became a permanent fix of the heater core. It is a lot less expensive and time consuming to try this cheap fix first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Dash almost out, just have the airbag 'puter and dash bolts/wire harnesses to remove/unfasten. I won't use stop leak, it is made to plug small holes in which the heater core and more importantly the radiator are comprised of. Heater stops working, you get cold. Radiator stops working, you might get to do HGs at least or replace an engine... If you aren't to keen on watching your gauges and/or in-tune to your cars behavior. More to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 As long as you don't use too much stop leak you will not see those results! But it sounds like your doing it the right way anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I've managed to clog a heater core with that stop leak stuff. Good luck man, lets hope your right about the core. Sounds like it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Man I guess I'm just lucky! I use it in my RS because of the leaky HG's and I added a little to my Brat because of a slight leak in my heater core. Both blow heat great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Dash out, after 25 min of effing with the stupid alarm wiring (freakin' car toys put wires going everywhere, some going nowhere, others right back to where the came from, or close to it...) Now for the dash support/side impact bar, evap, and heater boxes!!! .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Man I guess I'm just lucky! I use it in my RS because of the leaky HG's and I added a little to my Brat because of a slight leak in my heater core. Both blow heat great In over 20 years the only time a heater core clogged on me from stopleak was because the heatercore was clogged. I swear by the stuff. Its what the sooby additive is, and a few others use it too. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Its out, and wet, just can find the origin of the leak... stay tuned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Well, here it is... going to install the one from a 19,000 mile forester donor. yeah, the plastic pipe is busted, I did that on the removal good thing I'm not re-using it. (make sure your pipes are well lubed prior to removing box from car, try to get a long pick device through from the engine side with WD-40 or similar.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 Ahhhh, 12:30 and I'm finished... Cooling system burped, A/C evacuated and recharged, alarm re-installed, and everything works! yay! Now, just have to be back to work in less than 8 hours. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Nice WRB '98 RS. Way to knock that thing out quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Dash almost out, just have the airbag 'puter and dash bolts/wire harnesses to remove/unfasten. I won't use stop leak, it is made to plug small holes in which the heater core and more importantly the radiator are comprised of. Heater stops working, you get cold. Radiator stops working, you might get to do HGs at least or replace an engine... If you aren't to keen on watching your gauges and/or in-tune to your cars behavior. More to follow... someone that knows their stuff, never use stop leak unless you want to replace everything in your cooling system when it dislodges it self and clogs a hose. i can pull a dash in 10 minutes, then about another hour to swap cores and toss the dash back in. should be able to do it in a afternoon. good luck how come you discharged your a/c, no need, just pull the dash, pull the middle box out, then pull out the heater box, no need to pull the a/c box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 someone that knows their stuff, never use stop leak unless you want to replace everything in your cooling system when it dislodges it self and clogs a hose. i can pull a dash in 10 minutes, then about another hour to swap cores and toss the dash back in. should be able to do it in a afternoon. good luck I agree but it's hard when you have no where to work on your vehicle. It seems like whenever I have to work on my car, there's 2 feet of snow on the ground or its raining etc. If I had a place I could take my car apart I would. But where I live I can only do oil changes or small projects. I don't like to use it but I have used it quite a few times and never had a problem and its made it so I could put off working on my car until I had a place and time to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 I agree but it's hard when you have no where to work on your vehicle. It seems like whenever I have to work on my car, there's 2 feet of snow on the ground or its raining etc. If I had a place I could take my car apart I would. But where I live I can only do oil changes or small projects. I don't like to use it but I have used it quite a few times and never had a problem and its made it so I could put off working on my car until I had a place and time to do it. I am a big fan of stop leak also, I have used it with good results on oil and water leaks. These products have been around many years, and have not been sued out of bussiness, but I realize some people will not use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 someone that knows their stuff, never use stop leak unless you want to replace everything in your cooling system when it dislodges it self and clogs a hose. i can pull a dash in 10 minutes, then about another hour to swap cores and toss the dash back in. should be able to do it in a afternoon. good luck how come you discharged your a/c, no need, just pull the dash, pull the middle box out, then pull out the heater box, no need to pull the a/c box. 10 min? I'd like to come over and watch!!! Maybe on an early Legacy... My Imp has the slot load box, no need to take the box apart, however, the Evap/fan box over laps the heater box about 3/4 inch, I was not willing to fight it in the name of not letting the AC go. Besides, when I got the evap box back in I started the evacuation process. When the dash was in, I turned it off and let stand to check for leaks. When I finished the interior I started the fill process, by the time I was done filling and burping the cooling system, the A/C was done. And yes, to have a place to work on it (with the right tools too) is paramount. I, too, lived in Montana for a few winters and you simply didn't touch the car unless you were "dead in the water". Particularly when you live in a 4-plex, downtown, parked on the street, behind the snowpile left by the snowplow. Man, I miss those days sometimes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 i do everything out side in the elements, i work at a subaru wrecking yard, and pull dashes almost 1 per week, so it takes me no time at all. you get used to it, memorize the locations for the connectors and what HAS to be removed, and what doesn't. but ya i know they overlap, but if you unbolt it and push it to the right on the A/C box you can slip out the middle box without any problems, that way it gives you alot more room to work on the heater box. just how i do it, but whatever works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Yeah and that's where I work on my car as well, but, I live in a place where I'm not allowed to tear your car apart or I could get kicked out! So that prevents me! I have spent countless hours in the mud, rain, snow etc. working on my car and it sucks but I gotta do it, but I just can't now, so I have to wait for someone to have space available for me to work on my car at there place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfacinghere Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 I am also replacing my heater core on 95 Legacy. Been using stop leak for about a year as a "temp fix- procrastinate- not looking forward to pulling my dash out" reason. And the smell is coming back, so I need to do this. Quick question from you folks with experience in the dash. Am I just unplugging an electrical lead to disable the airbags? The Haynes manual I am looking at is kind of ambiguous and the drawings don't help that much. i assume there is a bright yellow line going to each airbag controller that I can just unhook. Can you give me some pointers so that I disconnect the right thing? Much thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Why not disconnect the battery and discharge residual power in the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 4. Main Harness A: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1) Turn ignition switch off. 2) Disconnect ground cable from battery and wait for at least 20 seconds before starting work. i can meail you the SRS section. This is for a 1998 but they are all the same I checked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfacinghere Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Yeah, I did disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, and thus far removed glove box, center console, center trim, knee bolster under steering column, hood latch, and stereo. But from the Haynes I am using, it also states that I need to disable the airbags by unplugging a yellow plug, I assume this will be necessary to pull entire dash off? Or can I just unbolt the dash after dropping the steering column and pull the dash off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Yeah, I did disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, and thus far removed glove box, center console, center trim, knee bolster under steering column, hood latch, and stereo. But from the Haynes I am using, it also states that I need to disable the airbags by unplugging a yellow plug, I assume this will be necessary to pull entire dash off? Or can I just unbolt the dash after dropping the steering column and pull the dash off? the yellow harness and plugs are the air bag wires. If it is in your way unplug it. if in doubt unplug it. The only nthing I would do because I am paranoid is cover the connector with electrical tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Remember to be super careful not to damage the clockspring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted December 30, 2010 Author Share Posted December 30, 2010 No need to remove steering wheel. ("Clockspring" allows steering wheel to turn and have electrical connection with horn, cruise, air bag.) Only need to drop column onto drivers seat to get dash away from firewall. I would, however, unplug both air bags prior to moving anything. They tend to leave a mark when they go off near you. And yes, cover connectors right after unplugging. Connections are very sensitive in the air bag system. Furthermore, don't unplug every non-airbag connector you see, there are only a handful going to the dash itself. Why create more work for yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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