The idler pulley seized on my EA82 Loyale and the belt jumped. I replaced the belts, idler, tensioners, etc, but It won't start. I'm definitely getting fuel and spark.

 

Last time a belt jumped, I replaced what I needed, did the rotation thing and it started fine.

 

Did I just get lucky the 1st time? It's too late and cold outside to do a compression check.... I'm clueless.

 

-Todd

It's not interference, so you're safe there. Are you sure you put the belts on right? That is something that commonly get's mixed up

99% sure....

 

Did the driver side, lined up the middle hash mark on the flywheel with pointer. Small hole on cam pulley is at 12:00, lining up with mark on inner cover.

 

Rotate engine 1 turn clockwise, and did the same with the passenger side belt.

 

Rotated the engine with #1 sparkplug out until airflow stopped, then matched 0* with the pointer.

 

Pulled dizzy and lined rotor up with small dimple and mark on dizzy.

 

Crank, crank, crank......

 

Thanks for the reply and reassurance.... I thought the valves were safe. I'll just have to take everything apart and verify my set up.

 

Thanks!

-Todd

 

-Todd

Does it sound "right" when it turns over? If the belts are one right and you have fuel and spark, what about disty? Did you touch that for any reason?

It sounds right, but it's a new starter, so that may be throwing me off. It sounds way different than the starter that it replaced.

 

I pulled the dizzy out because the belts were thrown. Lined up that small dimple on the gear part, with the mark on the dizzy's body, then reinstalled. The rotor is pointing at #1.

 

Maybe I screwed something up. It was snowing, I was cold and it was getting late.

 

Thanks Again,

Todd

I pulled the dizzy out because the belts were thrown.

 

For future reference, you don't need to pull the dizzy. just do the timing belt sequence.

never pull the distributor out unless you absolutely have to. there's almost never a need to remove the distributor. the timing belt slipping doesn't have anything to do with it. the distributor is referenced against the cam, so unless you remove the cam or distributor there's no reason to reset that.

 

most likely the distributor isn't lined up right, they're really annoying.

 

plug wires in the right order?

 

timing belts aren't off a tooth?

When I resealed my motor I pulled the disty to put the new o-ring on. I ended up getting it 180 off. But I just switched the plug wires around and solved it.

For future reference, you don't need to pull the dizzy. just do the timing belt sequence.

 

never pull the distributor out unless you absolutely have to. there's almost never a need to remove the distributor. the timing belt slipping doesn't have anything to do with it.

 

Thanks for the info; never knew that.

 

 

most likely the distributor isn't lined up right, they're really annoying.

 

You're telling me, lol.

 

 

plug wires in the right order?

 

timing belts aren't off a tooth?

 

I have to double check everything.

 

Thanks,

-Todd

Update.... the car is running and should have been done last night. Problem is that I'm an idiot.

 

The d/s belt moved slightly, but I think it would have been ok. The real issue was that I was working from memory and I don't know this car too well.

 

I was using #2 cylinder as #1 to find TDC. I was about 180* out. I was really frustrated, after taking the car apart 3 times after it still not starting. I finally decided to get the manual out and as soon as I looked at the firing order I realized my mistake.... I wanted to shoot myself!

 

Wasted about 3.5 hours tonight and I skipped lunch today, too.

 

-Todd

BTW, anybody know an easy way to get to 20* BTDC? The way the dizzy is mounted, doesn't allow enough rotation. I can only get to 15*.

 

I imagine it's just fudging the rotor and timing marks on the flywheel, but any tips are appreciated. After this fiasco, I may just leave it alone.

 

-Todd

After MY first six tries doing the timing belts, right from the manual, I finally got it right. One tooth off. Now I can do a belt on the side of the road in less than four hours with water runs and keeping the covers on.

I have only done it once. I never touched the distributor. I pulled the engine too because it coincided with my need to replace the clutch. Having the engine out made it much easier to work on. I was also very anal about marking and tagging every hose or connector with a number in the order I disconnected them and keeping that in a list so I could just do the reverse when I put the engine back in.

 

I was under pressure because my dad was sure I would screw it up. But it started right up after the first turn of the key.

Getting ready to do the belts on my 88 GL that I just picked up. Is there a good write up on the proper way to do this anywhere ?

 

Thanks