killshot_kustom Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 throwing my heads back on the block. I searched but cannot find info on this: Do I put any form of silicone on their along with the gaskets? my Haynes manual is really vague. Is it ok to use a wire wheel (on a die grinder) on the block and carefully remove the old gasket material? This is my first aluminum engine I have rebuilt...... used to big cast iron V-8's thanks, Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 When you Put back together the Parts, I Suggest you to Avoid the Use of Silicone or other kinds of Gasket Maker Stuff there... Just use the Better Head Gaskets you can Obtain in a Clean Surfaces. Also some Silicones can Damage Aluminium... the Cooper Type seems to be the Better Choice but in Other Places than Head Gaskets. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 The last HG job I did on my RX (EA82T) I used the spray on copper sealant. When I grenaded the engine, the HG's held up. It was the ring landings that didnt :-p Its all personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killshot_kustom Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Ok. just found an old thread that said to put them on dry. thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Ok. just found an old thread that said to put them on dry. thanks, Dan Yup. Don't get anywhere near the mating surfaces with a wire wheel. Use a yellow roloc bristle disk, as they are made for cleaning aluminum without damaging it. (There are different grades, differentiated by color, intended for use on different metals). Takes a while, but the results are fantastic. They look like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 +1 snowman, try to keep the block and head gasket surfaces as mirror like as possible. Avoid anything that will scratch the surface. Always put Head gaskets on dry, and torque in proper sequence and steps. Make sure that you thoroughly clean the head bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killshot_kustom Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 ok. so lets just say, hypatheticly that I did use the wire wheel on the block carfully (before I asked earlier), short of seperating the case and having the surface machined, what could I do to fix my tard moment..... hypatheticly of course. guess thats what I get for working on my engine when I'm on painkillers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Ok, lets say that did happen, how bad is it? Any pics? :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 I'd get a darn good straightedge and a flashlight, hold the straightedge against each surface with the flashlight behind it, and check for surface irregularities. If you were careful and lucky, it's very likely still flat and okay. If the heads were damaged, those can be milled easily enough. If the block was damaged, it's probably more cost effective to get another running engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 ooops generally, you want to avoid using steel wire wheels on any aluminum, microscopic bits of steel get left behind and set up dissimilar metal corrosion in the aluminum unless you made cereal bowls in the deck, I'm sure you're fine, did you bring enough pain killers to share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 ok. so lets just say, hypatheticly that's awesome did you mispell that on purpose? i can speak from experience here. i've used a wire brush...a long time ago, i don't do it now and don't recommend it. but i can also say the head gaskets held up just fine. of course it's going to make a difference how it was done, if it was brutally attacked and has lots of high/low spots, that's not good. but i would bet you have a good chance of being fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 When I put Subie engines together, First I scrape all the old HG junk off with a nylon/phenolic scraper... these things are awesome, they wont gouge the aluminum and not very expensive... Next I use a flat-board sander with about 120grit paper, HANDHELD not one of those reciprocating air powered ones.. and carefully plane the surfaces down until all HG materiel and wear is gone. The steel rings in some head gaskets (notably the 2.5l's...) will actually imprint a ring in the aluminum Cyl Head... I sand until that is gone or so small you cant feel it when you scrape with your fingernail. Then check it for flatness with a straightedge and feeler gauges, making sure you check it along the length of the head, across the head, and diagonally as well. I've had so much success with this that sometimes I've touched up the machine shop's crappy surface LOL!!! ***Make Sure you clean the block and heads thoroughly after sanding, such as steam cleaning or dunking on the hot tank... Make sure the coolant passageways dont have crap in them before you assemble the engine!*** Apply and install your head gaskets dry, they are designed so they do not need additional sealant, and in many cases using sealant can actually weaken the head gasket joint. I've used the above mentioned "CopperCoat" stuff, whether it helped or not, I dont know... I try not to use anything unless there's obvious flaws in the metal surfaces that need to be filled... and if you've prepped the block and heads correctly, this should not happen. Try and avoid using wire brushes, they gouge aluminum and leave deposits behind. Likewise, avoid the "Abrasive 3M" type Roloc wheels, they can leave abrasive material in places very hard to clean, like cylinder walls ,between the piston rings, in the cyl head behind the valves, etc.. which eventually can get into your engine and cause wear/ failure. +1 on the nylon Bristle Wheels... I use these all the time, they are great. Hope this helps!! 88RxTuner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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