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Got the 96 OBW manual(bad trans) as a project car 1 week ago( have not hear how the engine run since I got it ). While getting ready to buy the clutch kit, I look thru the engine bay and this is what I see.

Look like the spark plug crossed threaded at one time and who ever did this just put in some kind of adaptor to let the spark plug seat(instead of repair it properly with helicoil) :mad::mad:And when I remove the spark plug boot, the end of the boot is all burned out

My questions

1)Do I need a cylinder head?

2)I dont know if I can remove it, it seems in the well pretty tight. Any tip or trick to remove it?

3)Any advice?

Thanks a lot!!!

post-1047-1360276317_thumb.jpg

Edited by pearlm30
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hmm, that stinks. i would repair it.

 

are you doing the headgaskets anyway? remove the insert and repair the thread properly.

 

a machine shop can do this for you if you're not comfortable. with the previous hack job effort to it, might be good to just let pro's do it right now. high cost area (DC) this would cost me $100, around lower cost areas probably $50 (WV).

 

if you're not doing the head gaskets (which i recommend doing) a good machine shop will fix it "on the engine" so to speak if you take them the entire thing.

 

some shops familiar with aluminum heads/repairing spark plugs might even do it if you drop the entire engine off, just make a few phone calls.

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Looks to me like a spark plug antifouler. I wouldn't automatically assume that the threads in the head are damaged, although it is possible. You might be able to soak the area with PB Blaster (or your favorite "buster"), let it sit for a while, and use a properly-sized screw extractor to remove the thing. Just be careful, because you certainly don't want to make things worse. Also consider the possibility that the plug was previously fouling, and there might be other problems.

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Sounds like its better/easier just to get a used head?

The car is not ready to be driven yet, brought the car as is without trans, but once the trans/clutch is fixed, the car will be able to run on 3 or 4 cylinder to a machine shop to see if they can do redo the hack job???

 

 

 

hmm, that stinks. i would repair it.

 

are you doing the headgaskets anyway? remove the insert and repair the thread properly.

 

a machine shop can do this for you if you're not comfortable. with the previous hack job effort to it, might be good to just let pro's do it right now. high cost area (DC) this would cost me $100, around lower cost areas probably $50 (WV).

 

if you're not doing the head gaskets (which i recommend doing) a good machine shop will fix it "on the engine" so to speak if you take them the entire thing.

 

some shops familiar with aluminum heads/repairing spark plugs might even do it if you drop the entire engine off, just make a few phone calls.

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Never heard of antifouler:confused: maybe the injector is leaking into cylinder?

I will try to soak the area with PB blaster.

How is this antifouler attached to the head? Do I turn the wrench clockwise to loose it??? Can you provide more details?

I really appreciate everyones input!!!

 

Looks to me like a spark plug antifouler. I wouldn't automatically assume that the threads in the head are damaged, although it is possible. You might be able to soak the area with PB Blaster (or your favorite "buster"), let it sit for a while, and use a properly-sized screw extractor to remove the thing. Just be careful, because you certainly don't want to make things worse. Also consider the possibility that the plug was previously fouling, and there might be other problems.
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[...]How is this antifouler attached to the head? Do I turn the wrench clockwise to loose it??? Can you provide more details?[...]

Turn counterclockwise (just like you'd remove a spark plug). Since there's probably not enough clearance to get a socket on it, you could try a screw extractor, which should grip from the inside -- be sure to get one that's the right size. (Use Google if you're not familiar with what a 'screw extractor' is.)

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The real question is why was the non-fouler in there?

[...] Maybe it wasn't the spark plug hole threads.

Agreed, as I suggested in my post #3 in this thread when I said 'Also consider the possibility that the plug was previously fouling, and there might be other problems'.

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Thanks for everyones suggestion!!! Got the antifouler out:banana:using screw extractor #5 I got from Harbor Freight. Came out easier than I thought:lol:. The thread seems to be OK. I didnt see any sign of cross threaded spark plug hole.

I will get new NGK plugs and see what happen once I finish install the trans.

So what can make a spark plug foul? Leaking injector, worn piston ring/oil control ring?:confused::confused::confused:

Any suggestion?

Edited by pearlm30
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Thanks for everyones suggestion!!! Got the antifouler out [...]

Good work. If the engine can be cranked, I'd suggest checking dry compression on all the cylinders. If any cylinders are low, do a wet test as well. That will give you a basic idea of condition. You might also consider cylinder leak-down testing.

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Thanks for everyones suggestion!!! Got the antifouler out:banana:using screw extractor #5 I got from Harbor Freight. Came out easier than I thought:lol:. The thread seems to be OK. I didnt see any sign of cross threaded spark plug hole.

I will get new NGK plugs and see what happen once I finish install the trans.

So what can make a spark plug foul? Leaking injector, worn piston ring/oil control ring?:confused::confused::confused:

Any suggestion?

 

 

 

Maybe PO installed spark plugs with too low of a heat range, so plugs fouled. This seems far fetched. I have been around cars for a long time, and have never heard of an antifowler. I am curious to learn more about this product, what it is, how it works, and why someone would want to use it.

 

Install new plugs, and see what happens. Subaru doesn't build and sell junk, so leaky injectors, worn piston rings/oil control rings don't seem like a reasonable possibility.

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The trans is currently out of the car, so I cant really crank the engine for compression test. Will do after hook everything up.:banana:

Thanks again

 

 

Good work. If the engine can be cranked, I'd suggest checking dry compression on all the cylinders. If any cylinders are low, do a wet test as well. That will give you a basic idea of condition. You might also consider cylinder leak-down testing.
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I also took the rest of spark plugs of the engine. They are autolit platium except one is NGK. I hate this kind of maintenance hack job:mad: But again, I got the car cheap so:grin:

I will keep everyone updated on this issue. hopefully nothing major

 

 

 

Maybe PO installed spark plugs with too low of a heat range, so plugs fouled. This seems far fetched. I have been around cars for a long time, and have never heard of an antifowler. I am curious to learn more about this product, what it is, how it works, and why someone would want to use it.

 

Install new plugs, and see what happens. Subaru doesn't build and sell junk, so leaky injectors, worn piston rings/oil control rings don't seem like a reasonable possibility.

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Maybe PO installed spark plugs with too low of a heat range, so plugs fouled. This seems far fetched. I have been around cars for a long time, and have never heard of an antifowler. I am curious to learn more about this product, what it is, how it works, and why someone would want to use it.

 

One use of an anti fouler is so that you can remove or render the second o2 sensor obsolete, by adding it in between the o2 sensor and the exhaust, without throwing a CEL. Im not exactly sure how it works, but this is the reason i have gotten from several different people. It seems to me like it is just a band-aid fix for people who are either too cheap or too lazy to do it the right way. The reason for using it in one or more plug holes seems to be so that you can run the exhaust without the cat, and not throw the CEL. And dont shoot the messenger, this is what i got from a couple of the boy toy honda drivers around here.

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I read about something like that, but the installation of the spark plug antifouler was at O2 sensor location. Not in the spark plug well.

But again, I never hear of antifouler before this and I am open for any suggestion and advice:lol:. Maybe the antifouler is used by old style engine with carb engines???

 

 

Maybe PO installed spark plugs with too low of a heat range, so plugs fouled. This seems far fetched. I have been around cars for a long time, and have never heard of an antifowler. I am curious to learn more about this product, what it is, how it works, and why someone would want to use it.

 

One use of an anti fouler is so that you can remove or render the second o2 sensor obsolete, by adding it in between the o2 sensor and the exhaust, without throwing a CEL. Im not exactly sure how it works, but this is the reason i have gotten from several different people. It seems to me like it is just a band-aid fix for people who are either too cheap or too lazy to do it the right way. The reason for using it in one or more plug holes seems to be so that you can run the exhaust without the cat, and not throw the CEL. And dont shoot the messenger, this is what i got from a couple of the boy toy honda drivers around here.

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