Subipilot, has it been actually dripping? leaving a mark? And has there been any noticable oil loss?

 

Well in 1000 miles it prolly needed 1/3 qt. I didn't notice any stains in the road or anything, just the small drips you can see in the photos and where it's dripping on the frame.

 

Found this pic where you can see how it's dripping on the frame.

 

http://pilotcar.tv/1k_service/1K_09centerfront.jpg

 

The skidplate was wet with oil...can't really see with the light reflecting off it.

 

Mal

 

p.s. just wanted to add that the frame and engine compartment where cleaned before the engine install.

Edited March 29, 200917 yr by SubiPilot
additional comments

update?

So, you are more concerned with *losing value* on a slabe of artificial rock you PARK on, than for the environment.

 

You'd rather park a known leaky car in the street (which is illegal) and pollute streams and storms drains than dirty your expensive status symbol concrete.

 

Thanks.

 

Well, that really doesn't make a difference, does it? Whether it's on the privately-maintained driveway or the town/state maintained street. it doesn't change the effect an oil leak will have on the environment. Just saying.

 

Anyway, any updates from the "company"? A 1/3 quart oil loss at 1,000 miles isn't very good. These aren't Saturns.

UPDATE!

 

The company was great...very helpful and I now have an additional 1000 miles on her and all seems to be oil-tight.

 

Replaced the valve cover bolt seals and the right side rear camshaft cover O-ring. So far so good...however...

 

Today I was waiting at the state line for my customer, idling... nose pointed down slightly... when he came in I took off to get out up ahead of him and left blue smoke behind me... wasn't a huge cloud or anything...and after a couple of minutes the smoke was gone.

 

It was about a 400 mile day and I didn't see any more smoke.

 

Is this (hopefully) still part of break-in?

Mal

I talked to CCR about an engine, and they said they do NOT bench test them. That bothered me a bit until I thought about it and it keeps costs down. They know what they are doing and they have a good track record.

 

From my experience, new rings need to be run HARD intemittantly to seat properly.

 

Maybe others should pipe in here.

,

UPDATE!

 

The company was great...very helpful and I now have an additional 1000 miles on her and all seems to be oil-tight.

 

Replaced the valve cover bolt seals and the right side rear camshaft cover O-ring. So far so good...however...

 

Today I was waiting at the state line for my customer, idling... nose pointed down slightly... when he came in I took off to get out up ahead of him and left blue smoke behind me... wasn't a huge cloud or anything...and after a couple of minutes the smoke was gone.

 

It was about a 400 mile day and I didn't see any more smoke.

 

Is this (hopefully) still part of break-in?

Mal

I talked to CCR about an engine, and they said they do NOT bench test them. That bothered me a bit until I thought about it and it keeps costs down. They know what they are doing and they have a good track record.

 

From my experience, new rings need to be run HARD intemittantly to seat properly.

 

Maybe others should pipe in here.

,

 

Do the engines in factory new Subarus blow blue smoke? Not that I've seen. I could be wrong, but I don't think blue smoke (oil in the cylinders) is a real good sign.

 

Another thing, even with an ethical engine rebuilder the buyer can still potentially take a real hosing. Pay for the rebuilt engine, pay for the shipping, and pay for the install. Holy crap!!!!! A bad engine !!!!!

Pay for a de-install, pay for the shipping back to the factory. Lucky you, you bought a rebuilt from a honest rebuilder, they will get you a good engine. Ok, pay for shipping the second engine, and pay for another install. The honest rebuilder may, or may not, participate in covering some of the additional expenses. A less than ethical rebuilder might be tempted to just send out another questionable engine, after all, it isn't costing him a thing. It's all on you.

 

I tried a rebuilt engine one time and got burnt badly. Never again for me.

The only thing that saved me was that I used an in-state installer and bought the engine through him. I was able to file in small claims court.

 

Another worst case scenario. Bad engine? Rebuilder says the engine was OK, but the jerk installer screwed it up. The installer says he did a great job, but the jerks at the rebuilder sent him a bum engine. Try straightening that mess out. You'll feel like a ping-pong ball.

Edited April 10, 200916 yr by The Dude

Let's see... you had to install new gaskets in the rebuilt engine to stop oil leaks.

 

Now the engine is puffin' the blues?!

 

I dunno... doesn't sound real promising to me. :-\

How did you break the engine in? You're supposed to drive it pretty hard in the first 20 miles or so to properly seat the rings. If you went pretty easy on it (aka highway cruising, low throttle action) then you'll have some short lived piston rings.

Well, that really doesn't make a difference, does it? Whether it's on the privately-maintained driveway or the town/state maintained street. it doesn't change the effect an oil leak will have on the environment. Just saying.

 

Oil in my driveway stays in my driveway or on the ground around it. There isn't much wildlife or anyone growing food in my driveway. True, some amount may end up washing into the road, but not really, it ussually soaks into the pours of the concrete, keeping it isolasted to a certain extent.

 

Oil in the gutter with a car parked at the curb get's washed directly into the city storm water system, which feeds into the river, affecting fish and down stream farmers and communities more directly.

How did you break the engine in? You're supposed to drive it pretty hard in the first 20 miles or so to properly seat the rings. If you went pretty easy on it (aka highway cruising, low throttle action) then you'll have some short lived piston rings.

 

I broke the engine in per warranty instructions. Drive it normally. Nothing was said about driving it hard for the first 20 miles but it did say to not baby the motor...so I drove it normally making sure to vary the engine speed and not drive at any set speed for prolonged periods of time.

I replaced the valve cover bolt seals and an O-ring... no gaskets.

 

I've driven it another 300 miles or so since it blew a little smoke... and I've pushed it occasionally since it's now past the 1000 mile break-in....no more smoke.

 

The motor seems to be running better every time I drive it.

 

This motor has hydraulic valves which seem to be a bit louder than any of my other 3 Subis but aside from this it seems to be fine.

Edited April 10, 200916 yr by SubiPilot
additional info

The motor seems to be running better every time I drive it.

 

Good, I'm glad at least it is running well.

 

Hopefully the grommets you repalced will stop the leaking too.

Oil in my driveway stays in my driveway or on the ground around it. There isn't much wildlife or anyone growing food in my driveway. True, some amount may end up washing into the road, but not really, it ussually soaks into the pours of the concrete, keeping it isolasted to a certain extent.

 

Oil in the gutter with a car parked at the curb get's washed directly into the city storm water system, which feeds into the river, affecting fish and down stream farmers and communities more directly.

 

Actually, that does make sense now that you put it that way. I always like it when people voice their opinion regarding a disagreement with facts, rather than insults. It's a rare thing. Cheers!

 

OP: Glad to hear your car is running well.

If that is truly an oil leak, I would find it unexceptable.

 

New engines do not leak, period.

 

 

You may want to wash the engine, be anal retentive about filling the car with liruids, and see what happens in another 1000 miles. Also tripe check to make sure your PS pump is not the source of the leak.

 

Also it is Easter weekend so I wouldnt be upset about not getting a call back.

 

Use the car in the meantime. No need to be without a car for the weekend.

 

nipper

after all that arguing about if an engine should leak oil, I hate to bring it up again...but.....I was doing my annual engine washdown today..

 

my 96 OB with a CCR rebuilt block with 4k on it,,,,NO oil leaks

moms 2006 forester...34k...NO oil leaks (I hate the shape of that new Y pipe BTW-blocks what used to be a nice view)

my nieces 03 impreza 112k (cam/crank seals done at 103k).....NO oil leaks

 

the man should NOT have any leaks on an engine that new.....

his engine story is starting to scare me

the man should NOT have any leaks on an engine that new.....

his engine story is starting to scare me

 

 

It shouldnt. rebuilt engines are assembled by hand. It happens. Thats why there are warrentes and why you should only buy these things from reputable companies.

 

 

nipper

nip

 

do you have an opinion on this rebuilder?

Only if it is the one from the square state with a lot of big pointy mountains....

 

 

I have seen only three issues with them over the years, and each time they rectified the problem. You can't really ask for anything more. My best freind used a Nationwide rebuilder for a non-subaru vehical, and he got screwed. I used subaru for my rebuilt engine and never had a problem.

 

I think you are in good hands.

 

nipper

Only if it is the one from the square state with a lot of big pointy mountains....

 

 

I have seen only three issues with them over the years, and each time they rectified the problem. You can't really ask for anything more. My best freind used a Nationwide rebuilder for a non-subaru vehical, and he got screwed. I used subaru for my rebuilt engine and never had a problem.

 

I think you are in good hands.

 

nipper

you bought a subaru remanufactured? exactly what did you get and how much was it?

I was on one of my infamous "i hate life i am running away from people" road trips. Blu threw a rod in a rather spectacular way in CA. I was so relaxed I really didnt care (thats what Mastercard is for).

 

I had a choice of getting towed back to Ca or Reno. I chose CA. I was in such a centered place in my Id, I told them if I was going to do it I did not want to open my hood untill the next timing belt change (aside from fluid changes). Blu had 191,000 miles on him.

 

I probably got some things I did not need, or could have gone till later, but I was one with the universe.

 

I would have to look at the bill but it was a hair under 7,000 including towing and 10 day rental. I also had to pay for a new block as my old one had a rather spectacular hole in it. I got reinbursed on towing and rental, but i felt it was a fair bill. When the connecting rod went it spread shrapmetal through the radiator and oil runied the altenator. The dealer said that Blu was in excellant shape, so he flet it was a good investment to put a engine in him, as opposed to selling me a new car.

 

See there are honest dealers.

 

Yes I could have gone the independent shop route, but since I was someplace in the middle of nowhere, I decided to trust subaru and pay for the peace of mind.

 

Also the dealer was located at the bottom of a long pass and siad he usually rebuilds 6-8 engines a year that blow on that pass (so he knew what he was doing). The tow truck said that he gets 2-3 vehicals a month that blow engines on that pass of various makes.

 

I now have 50,000 miles on the sooby engine. Aside from a battery I have had zero issues with the Factory rebuild. It could have been done for about 5-5500 bucks or less if done in my own neighboorhood.

 

nipper

I was on one of my infamous "i hate life i am running away from people" road trips. Blu threw a rod in a rather spectacular way in CA. I was so relaxed I really didnt care (thats what Mastercard is for).

 

I had a choice of getting towed back to Ca or Reno. I chose CA. I was in such a centered place in my Id, I told them if I was going to do it I did not want to open my hood untill the next timing belt change (aside from fluid changes). Blu had 191,000 miles on him.

 

I probably got some things I did not need, or could have gone till later, but I was one with the universe.

 

I would have to look at the bill but it was a hair under 7,000 including towing and 10 day rental. I also had to pay for a new block as my old one had a rather spectacular hole in it. I got reinbursed on towing and rental, but i felt it was a fair bill. When the connecting rod went it spread shrapmetal through the radiator and oil runied the altenator. The dealer said that Blu was in excellant shape, so he flet it was a good investment to put a engine in him, as opposed to selling me a new car.

 

See there are honest dealers.

 

Yes I could have gone the independent shop route, but since I was someplace in the middle of nowhere, I decided to trust subaru and pay for the peace of mind.

 

Also the dealer was located at the bottom of a long pass and siad he usually rebuilds 6-8 engines a year that blow on that pass (so he knew what he was doing). The tow truck said that he gets 2-3 vehicals a month that blow engines on that pass of various makes.

 

I now have 50,000 miles on the sooby engine. Aside from a battery I have had zero issues with the Factory rebuild. It could have been done for about 5-5500 bucks or less if done in my own neighboorhood.

 

nipper

 

ugghhh...

sounds like a trip from hell! Blowing a motor 3000 miles from home...a true nightmare

a true mastercard moment---priceless

Edited April 11, 200916 yr by bgambino
correction

Only if it is the one from the square state with a lot of big pointy mountains....

 

 

I have seen only three issues with them over the years, and each time they rectified the problem. You can't really ask for anything more. My best freind used a Nationwide rebuilder for a non-subaru vehical, and he got screwed. I used subaru for my rebuilt engine and never had a problem.

 

I think you are in good hands.

 

nipper

 

 

If we're talking about the same company, I believe I remember one poster who claimed that not only was the original rebuilt engine bad, but the replacement engine was bad as well.

 

In any event, I have a real problem when the customer gets hosed big time for the rebuilder screwing up. Get a bad rebuilt engine, and the customer pays for the de-install, and the freight back to the rebuilder. The customer then has the privilege of paying for freight a THIRD time and SECOND install. The rebuilder ships a bad engine, and the CUSTOMER is out hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. I got to say, that's one hell of a good deal-for the rebuilder. With almost all of the "screw up" expense on the customer, the rebuilder would seem to have little economic incentive to clean up his act. I don't care how honest a rebuilder may be, I think that's a raw deal for the customer.

It's hard for me to think of another situation were the customer can get screwed so badly. Maybe if when a new car broke, the dealer charged you for transporting the car back and forth to the factory so that they could do the warranty repair. "Free" warranty repair, you just pay for shipping the car back and forth to the factory. Of course, if you own a Forester that would be Guma, Japan.

If we're talking about the same company, I believe I remember one poster who claimed that not only was the original rebuilt engine bad, but the replacement engine was bad as well.

 

In any event, I have a real problem when the customer gets hosed big time for the rebuilder screwing up. Get a bad rebuilt engine, and the customer pays for the de-install, and the freight back to the rebuilder. The customer then has the privilege of paying for freight a THIRD time and SECOND install. The rebuilder ships a bad engine, and the CUSTOMER is out hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. I got to say, that's one hell of a good deal-for the rebuilder. With almost all of the "screw up" expense on the customer, the rebuilder would seem to have little economic incentive to clean up his act. I don't care how honest a rebuilder may be, I think that's a raw deal for the customer.

It's hard for me to think of another situation were the customer can get screwed so badly. Maybe if when a new car broke, the dealer charged you for transporting the car back and forth to the factory so that they could do the warranty repair. "Free" warranty repair, you just pay for shipping the car back and forth to the factory. Of course, if you own a Forester that would be Guma, Japan.

 

That is one of the risks you take whne you bring your own parts to a shop. It can be a altenator, a washer machine part, or a OE dealer part that you pay someone else to install.

 

nipper

OK... 4k mile update

 

After the valve cover bolt seals were replaced and the O-ring for the camshaft cover... no leaks!!!!!

 

However the blue smoke is still an occasional issue after idling for awhile. Just blows blue smoke for 20 or 30 seconds and then clears up.

 

Someone suggested that it could possibly be valve guides leaking some oil after the pressure builds while idling?

 

I've contacted the supplier and they will get back to me on this.

 

The valves on this motor seem louder than any of my other Subs and several people have asked me why they sound so loud... beats me LOL.

 

I've been told they are hydraulic valves on this motor. Is there any adjustment that can be made on these?

 

Other than occasional blue smoke after idling and the noisy valves the motor is running like a champ.

I've been told they are hydraulic valves on this motor. Is there any adjustment that can be made on these?

no.