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EGR Question grrr


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I have just finished my first spfi swap on my ea81, she runs but doesnt run right seems like bogging down when you drive it. i checked and am getting code 34 which is the "EGR solenoid valve" i have an 86 GL 4x4 hatchback. the donor car was an 89 GL wagon 4x4. i pulled one off a subaru i just bought that is FI same year and everything as the donor car she has bad head gaskets so i dont know if that one worked in the first place but neither worked. any body know whats going on??

 

 

Much Thanks

SS

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might not matter, but i couldn't figure this out:

. i pulled one off a subaru i just bought that is FI same year and everything as the donor car she has bad head gaskets so i dont know if that one worked in the first place but neither worked.

 

in general you can try to clean out an EGR and make sure it's not sticking. make sure it seems to operate properly and any solenoid associated with it does as wel (clicking).

 

having it and all the other lines/hoses hooked up in the rights spots would be a good thing to check as well.

 

do you have an FSM? it would have a good run down of what steps to go through with that code.

 

can you remove and forget about it?

Edited by grossgary
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so i unplugged and took out the egr solenoid valve but the ecs light on my dash stays on and i still get a code, is that going to put my car in like limp mode? is there a way to by pass is so the computer thinks it is still there and i wont have the code??

 

 

 

Just wondering

Thanks

SS

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so i unplugged and took out the egr solenoid valve but the ecs light on my dash stays on and i still get a code, is that going to put my car in like limp mode? is there a way to by pass is so the computer thinks it is still there and i wont have the code??

 

 

 

Just wondering

Thanks

SS

 

Why would you think taking out hte solenoid would make the light go out? If there isn't a load device on the end of the circuit, the computer knows something is wrong.

 

Either wire in a resistor, or find a good solenoid to plug in there, at least electrically. It doesn't need to be actually hooked intot he vac lines, just the electrical unit needs to be present on the end of the circuit.

 

At any rate it shouldn't really effect driveability. No worries about *limp mode* with this particular code.

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EGR solenoid does nothing but generate a code 34. You can wire in a 5 watt, 33 Ohm resistor to simulate the solenoid.

 

Either way - code or not - your bogging problem is not related and will not be fixed by replaceing the solenoid or tricking the computer. You have other issues. Run a D-Check.

 

GD

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