my69opelgt Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 IS THIS B.O.V. TOO BIG? IT IS A REALLY TIGHT SQUEEZE UNDER THE HOOD BUT IT FITS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Did some minor body work today plus washed and shined the tires plus bumpers. I did more work after i took these pictures. I scraped all the small pin stripes off both sides and took the glue off with thinner. plus the black trim right behind the front bumper is no longer there. After i get the rest of the black urethane off the body ill start prepping for paint, well after its running ofcourse lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Brandon, I love it! I had no idea you were pimping this thing out like that! Dang, dogg! If you want some help, let me know! I'm in your neck of the woods all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Well im not working all this week if you got some free time come by, im sure i could find something that needs wrenching lol On a side note has anyone tried the COPPER RTV GASKET MAKER ON THE TURBO TO DOWNPIPE SURFACE? Ive heard good and bad reviews on other sites but i trust usmb to have more knowledge of Subaru compatibility Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Well im not working all this week if you got some free time come by,im sure i could find something that needs wrenching lol On a side note has anyone tried the COPPER RTV GASKET MAKER ON THE TURBO TO DOWNPIPE SURFACE? Ive heard good and bad reviews on other sites but i trust usmb to have more knowledge of Subaru compatibility That sounds pretty ghetto to me :-\ Probably wouldnt last very long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 That sounds pretty ghetto to me :-\Probably wouldnt last very long. Ya I agree completely. You are better off getting a piece of copper plate from home depot and making your own gasket rather that the rtv type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 You only call it ghetto cus you wish you thought of it first lol jk. im just goin the route I can afford and how come the factory didn't have a gasket between the internal wastegate and turbo? any one ELSE know of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 You only call it ghetto cus you wish you thought of it first lol jk. im just goin the route I can afford and how come the factory didn't have a gasket between the internal wastegate and turbo? any one ELSE know of this? If you are talking about in between the DP and turbo, there is supposed to be one. Its a 2 layer metal sandwich type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 IS THIS B.O.V. TOO BIG? [/img] mmm.. is that a true hks super sequential, or is that a copy. I dont see the hks sticker. either way it works for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 I meant in between the internal wastegate and the turbo there was no gasket. I am using the setup Boosted balls made for a external wastegate as shown above. This pic below is of a stock internally wastgated turbo with what appears to be NO gasket. Now, i know there is a gasket on the stock downpipe but if both mating surfaces are resurfaced and completely flat a gasket should not be necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 I DIDNT PUT IN MUCH DETAIL BUT JUST NEED TO GET SECOND OPINION AND EVEN A THIRD ON MY PLAN FOR THE PVC SYSTEM. I WASNT SURE ON HOW THE CATCH CAN WORKS THOUGH. LET ME KNOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 Is this posted in the wrong forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 well it started up but it had some vacuum leaks. i fixed those. then it started getting alot of white smoke. i have a vac/boost gauge and its been reading 10vac no throttle and 20vac with lil throttle. oil pressure was good and fuel is good. can hear turbo spool. WILL NOT IDLE. if it gets below 1200 it takes alot of pedal pumps to get it up again. so i went back and double checked all lines, aav line is supposed to be drawing positive pressure from before throttle body and routing it to intake manifold. problem 1) AAV line plumbed to wrong intake pipe, is on after maf, needs to be after turbo before TB. problem 2) OIL SHOOTING OUT THE EXHAUST LIKE A HYDRENT! PROBLEM 3) wont idle. problem 4) crankcase gases are really thick and white! problem 5) the pvc is plumbed like stock but not with the stock hoses, new hoses, stock placement. ( since the aav was plumed through the same line its plausible this is the cause for no boost and the no idle) sorry for long post, its just while typing this it makes these ideas pop in my head lol well all this has to wait a week while im down in The Dalles OR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Boy, what the heck are you doin in the Dalles? I want to come see the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiekid Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 I have had the same problem with oil shooting out the back of the turbo after my catch can install with a TD04. The way you have your illustration drawn is not the stock setup, you have no ventilation when you’re on boost besides what the motor is pushing out your vented catch can. After owning 5 of these turbo cars of various modification (low compression, high compression, tdo4, 5th injector, etc.) and about 8 more non turbo, you need to run a sealed system. This is probably why it doesn't idle very well either. Technically to do it right you should run 2 catch cans, one for the valve covers and one for the vent on the back of the block. To solve this problem temporarily however, I would get rid of your vent on your catch can and tee the valve cover hoses together and run them into the "in" side of your catch can, then run a hose from the can's outlet to the pcv valve. Now you need to splice in 2 tees's on the hose to your pcv: one will go to the intake boot (post MAF, pre turbo), and the other splice will be the hose from the 3rd vent on the block. The setup above will allow crankcase gasses to be sucked through the pcv valve when your off boost, and sucked through the intake boot when your on boost. That way the motor doesn't have to work to push the crankcase gasses out (hence the poor idle). But, running it this way kind of defeats the purpose of the catch can. This is why you need 2 cans.... your still going to be sucking oil through the 3 crank vent (but in reality, its run for 20+ years just fine sucking in oil vapors, so its really not that important in my opinion). Did you clock the turbo center section so the oil drain back is straight down? It sounds to me like you have a few more things going on that just the pcv plumbing, but I think re-routing your lines will help a lot with your run ability issues... Until you boost that thing and go lean, hopefully fuel system mods are on your "to do" list. My tdo4 @9psi ran 14:1 on the wideband with an all-stock fuel system, which is too lean for me. EGT gauge would not be a bad idea either; things get hot quick 1550 degrees in about 15 seconds. Either way, I'm local (in Cd'a) and willing to help any fellow subie enthusiast. I have way too many parts as well, so if you need anything let me know... I would be happy to make a donation (you too twitch, if you need another stock turbo, I’ve got about 8 of them...LOL) Sorry for the novel... But hopefully you can get your car running better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 awesome thanx for the help. i dont have it physically plumbed this way yet. i dont have a catch can. just looking for the exact info you just gave me lol. that cool you in my neighborhood, ya i think my biggest problem is the 2inch up pipe, i was told 1 7/8 is best. welcome to come by when im not working. just call me and i can give directions. ill pm my number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 you need a little more meat on those tires! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 (edited) lol ya thats what i told les schwab too. all they would finance me is the stock sized all season. Edited June 20, 2009 by my69opelgt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 K so i found i had an exhaust leak on the d.s. head, its missing a stud thus stripped out somewhere. so it only boosts to 4-5 psi. it was running ok even with the leak but then a few days of driving to work and back it started losing coolant and warming up. i would add coolant and by the time i get home its gone! like magic! Ive drove the car with an empty radiator unknowingly but yet it did not once over heat... im sure if i had been wot all the time it would have though. it has dual electric fans so im thinking that is just barely enough to air cool it? So i made a noob mistake by putting cheap egay gaskets on it the first time around. im picking up FELPRO head gaskets and OEM intake and cam carrier seals to hope fully fix my problem. One unusual problem that is concerning me alot is when it takes all that coolant, it gets pulled into the oil, and then the oil psi is too much and it pushes out the turbo seals and sucked through the intercooler and into the motor. im pretty sure this is a bad thing to happen. will it be fixed by replacing the HG? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Here is a quick video from my phone, crappy i know, as it sits today. was able to get a longer stud but it felt like it was not gonna hold so i left it snug. I am in the process of uploading a higher quality video and will post that link when it finishes. Ok here is the new high quality vid. Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSiQka3mt4g Edited June 22, 2009 by my69opelgt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Remember... The temperature sensor needs water to surround it to give you a reading... so it may not have said it over heated but it very well could have. However, I know of a certain 92 loyale thats gauge was misallined, and we are thinking that the temp got up to, oh about another 1/2 turn past red. And it still runs fine. Also, check for bubbles in your radiator, So fill it up and of course try to bleed it, and then let it run with the cap off and just stare at the filler neck. Thats a simple, and fairly accurate test for headgasket. And have you checked your plugs? Pull them out and see if one of them looks superbly clean, "steam cleaned" is exactly what will happen if coolant is leaking into your cylinder. Hope it helps. Edited June 26, 2009 by beataru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Looking at the first pic in post #35 what is the turbo drain doing pointing up at that angle,they must go down as close to vertical as possible or you will flood the turbo with too much oil leading to excessive oil consumption and early turbo failure due to carbon buildup where you don't want it. There is a reason why the drain is much bigger than the feed side on turbo oil systems,once the oil has done it's job you do not want it hanging around. Look at the location of the drain on any factory turbo and you will see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Now that you mentioned it i think that it is very odd to get a reading on the temp gauge even when no coolant is in the rad. About the oil drain... thank you i already know it has to face down and it does now. old pic lol. I have the motor out and apart already, i must have been tired when i put it together the first time cus i found RTV on the intake gaskets oops. i think that plus the cheap gaskets were the cause for taking on coolant. I bought FELPRO TORQUE-MATIC HEAD GASKETS, But only one had the oil passage rubber o ring, the second was completely blank. i went back and they couldnt get another felpro with the ring. So i hope the ALTROM GROUP gaskets will be ok. they claim to be one of the oe suppliers for subaru in japan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beataru Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Just check the thickness on them, and you should be fine. Should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my69opelgt Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 EVER HAVE SOME ONE LIE TO YOUR FACE? I PAID 500 BUCKS FOR A 200 POUND BOAT ANCHOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LAST year i bought a " Rebuilt motor" from a fellow USMB member in portland. He claimed it ran but wouldnt idle due to stage 3 cams plus the stock ecu wouldnt work with that large of a cam. so i got a 1)"rebuilt motor", 2) t3/t4 turbo, 3) custom uppipe, custom down pipe, 4)external wastegate, 5)xt manifold, 6)and a rx awd d/r locking center dif transmission. I took the cams off and put on n/a cams. replaced h/g and oil pan gaskets. traded the turbo for a medium sized one lol, and put it in. now it started but i could not get it to stop spewing oil out the crank case vent. so i tore it all down AGAIN. found the reason.... now i know there are always a risk when buying used parts. i just cant believe he never noticed the piston slap or the gap in the rings! i took it to a certified mechanic shop and was told the cylinders were bored .30 over!!! but the crazy part is he put standard pistons back in!!! the block was ruined ofcourse cus it was bored untill the water jacket showed in the cylinder wall. so i call this guy and ofcourse he wont answer me. im upset but i just wanted to get the whole truth from him of why he did it. maybe he had some one else do the machining and didnt know? idk but now im using an old block that was pulled from another gl-10, 207k miles but it checked out ok. using the best heads of the two motors and new gaskets. I wont say it was worth it just for the custom pipes and tranny cus i could have avoided wasting two months and two sets of head gaskets on the bad block. live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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