Here's the scoop. I have a 99 outback 2.5 DOHC with a manual tranny. This morning I went outside to start the car and she started up just fine. I realized that I had left something in the house and I shut it off to go back in. When I restarted the car it ran like crap and did so all the way to work. I stopped at my mechanics during lunch and he found a code for the 1 and 3 cylinder misfire. He said it is acting like the valves are not right. I am going to do a compression test in the morning, then check the plugs for fouling and maybe even test the fuel injectors. It is so weird that the car would have a failure in both cylinders at once.

 

Any other suggestions? I'm open to all advice. I need my car back. Right now I am driving my 90 loyale and boy I already miss the cmforts of the outback.

 

 

Thanks Guys

 

Mike

Hopefully the belt for that side didn't break.

This car only has one belt. I hope it didn't jump timing, but I will check that too.

Mike, save yourself the effort and just swap in another coil pack and you're done in 10 minutes.

 

On EJ engines plugs should be NGK stock and Subaru wires. The only good alternative is Magnecor, avoiding any and all store bought stuff otherwise is good medicine for non turbo EJ engines.

GG - I know it's a simple swap. But 1&3 on a coil pack (rather than 1&2 or 3&4?)

 

 

I haven't witnessed this yet.

I'm open to all options.

 

Thanks guys, I'm off to tame the beast. I'll let you know what I find.

I've experienced a knock with misfire upon restarting, after having moved the car a short distance. The restart was hours (not minutes) later.

 

This thread might be interesting: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91822

 

I now try to avoid very short runs.

Edited May 7, 200916 yr by OB99W

i wouldn't be surprised to see spark plug wire problems either, how old are they? are they Subaur or aftermarket?

 

it doesn't add up but misfires are wires or coil packs a high percentage of the time. i was under the impression mike would have one he could swap, so it's not like he would have to order or go find one, it would just take a couple minutes.

Running like crap after shutting the car off is 99% of the time a timing belt/chain jump. The sudden unloading of the belt causes the jump.

 

How many miles are on this car.

 

Its not a coil pack, as it would be 1/2 or 3/4 and it wouldnt be suddenly.

 

 

nipper

Nipper wins the kewpie doll. The exhaust cam jumped three teeth. i pulled the cover and it was obvious. Reset the belt and all is well now.

 

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

Gary: You are right, I do have one on a shelf, but my mechanic suggested the belt check, so i did that first.

 

Just glad to have the car back up and running

Nipper wins the kewpie doll. The exhaust cam jumped three teeth. i pulled the cover and it was obvious. Reset the belt and all is well now.

 

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

Gary: You are right, I do have one on a shelf, but my mechanic suggested the belt check, so i did that first.

 

Just glad to have the car back up and running

 

 

Er um , you know

 

 

i hate to tell ya this

 

 

They dont do that unless the timing belt is stretched or the tension and idlers are tired or bad.

 

If you have over 106,000 miles or 106 months on this car you need a timing belt.

 

 

 

 

Heck it jumped, you need a timing belt.

The belt and Idlers have less than 10k on them. Maybe I'll change out the belt anyway.

The belt and Idlers have less than 10k on them. Maybe I'll change out the belt anyway.

 

Might want to check the tensioner while you're in there.

All of the tin=ming components were replaced at the same time last year. All new not used or rebuilt.

All of the tin=ming components were replaced at the same time last year. All new not used or rebuilt.

 

Your going to have to check things, especially the tensioner. Replace the belt as it may have gotten damaged, but belts just dont jump for no reason. Something isnt right. Also inspect the sprockets for any wear.

 

If there were any non-subaru parts, get OE parts.

 

nipper

right on - if the belt jumped, something is wrong and it's going to happen again. not a fun thought on an interference engine.

 

if you have no idea what the problem could be i would try a new Subaru belt.

 

i doubt he'll go all Subaru - $500+ in parts for all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt.

 

hope a cam isn't having problems, causing undue tension on the timing belt?

i doubt he'll go all Subaru - $500+ in parts for all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt.

 

 

and the price of a two rebuilt cylinder heads?

 

penny wise and dollar foolish.

 

 

nipper

and the price of a two rebuilt cylinder heads?

 

penny wise and dollar foolish.

 

 

nipper

that's unrealistic to think everyone is going to do the exact same thing.

 

but the funny thing is rebuilding your cylinder heads (which typically survive this gig - seen it) could be cheaper if you're doing your own labor! it would be around my neck of the woods.