I am new to the subaru family and I am the new owner of a rather well known RX coupe. I am looking to improve performance.

 

I was thinking about adding an intercooler and recirculation valve. Will this be a worth while modification?

Yes it is worth your time but everyone is going to say go ej.

 

Header, turbo back, STI TMIC, intake,

An intercooler is always advised on these engines. There are some things you can do, but a lot of them have more to do with making the engine more reliable rather than netting more power. They are 115 HP stock, and without a lot of modifications and loss of what little reliability they already have, you aren't going to push much more than about 140 HP. The absolute outside limit of the engine seems to be around 175 HP but that's with a ton of mods and isn't particularly reliable.

 

Compare those numbers to that of the EJ family - the non-turbo EJ22 puts out 135 or 145 depending on the year, and the EJ22 Turbo is 165 bone stock - closer to 200 with a top mount IC and turbo-back exhaust.

 

The money to make an EA82T more powerful is better spent installing an EJ engine - you will get the power you want without any mods, and you will get a high degree of reliability - even higher than the EA82T was without any mods at all.

 

GD

I wouldn't mind doing an ej18 and use the stock EA82 turbo but the class this car runs in requires the original engine code IE.. if it was an EA82 it has to stay an EA82. I think 130 hp will be enough to run top 20 if I can tune the driver up.

Top mount intercooler and convert to a larger turbo - VF11 or TD04. Don't increase the boost much - uncork the exhaust. Should make 130 without much trouble. Watch the cooling system - probably should freshen the whole system anyway - it's a major weak point on these engines.

 

GD

I will add a top mount. I have an old celica top mount and a Mazda recirc valve. I don't plan to get nuts with this but bumping boost up to 10psi is not out of the question.

I will add a top mount. I have an old celica top mount and a Mazda recirc valve. I don't plan to get nuts with this but bumping boost up to 10psi is not out of the question.

 

10 go 12 you will save gas

 

 

 

it gets up & goes without putting it to the floor:headbang:

 

but look at this post it will fill you in a Lil bit more

 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27730

Edited August 30, 200916 yr by AWD TURBO!

I am new to the subaru family and I am the new owner of a rather well known RX coupe. I am looking to improve performance.

 

I was thinking about adding an intercooler and recirculation valve. Will this be a worth while modification?

 

 

did you buy a running RX out of Atlanta?

yes a former GRM Challenge car built by a friend up here in CLT.

Edited August 30, 200916 yr by vagen

I think I'll add an oil cooler as well as the intercooler if I can find one that is.

I think I'll add an oil cooler as well as the intercooler if I can find one that is.

 

EA81's had oil coolers for the turbo (same turbo). This was done because the original turbo's were not water cooled. You could, however, adapt the EA81 turbo oil cooler to the EA82 - it screws on between the pump and the filter.

 

Note that it ONLY cools the oil supply to the turbo. It does not cool the full flow of the pump.

 

GD

so this is the same as a sandwich plate adapter type cooler that takes the oil and runs it through a the filter then the cooler and back or is it unique to the ea81

so this is the same as a sandwich plate adapter type cooler that takes the oil and runs it through a the filter then the cooler and back or is it unique to the ea81

 

Its unique to the EA81T.

For more info on upgrades, I suggest you read this thread.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88249

so this is the same as a sandwich plate adapter type cooler that takes the oil and runs it through a the filter then the cooler and back or is it unique to the ea81

 

It is that style, yes, but it ONLY cools the oil supply going to the turbo to prevent cokeing in the original non-water-cooled turbo's. Pretty neat item really. It will bolt right on to the EA82's oil pump - you will have to change some supply lines to the turbo I'm sure though.

 

GD

can I use a sandwich adapter type cooler and cool all the oil?

can I use a sandwich adapter type cooler and cool all the oil?

 

Yes you can.

Someone here was selling the adapters a few years ago.

Found it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=353870&postcount=8

Edited September 1, 200916 yr by Turbone

that's what I was looking for. I think any oil cooling is better than stock especially in a turbo application. I guess I'll have to figure out exactly what is legal in the class I'm planning to race this in.

I was thinking about adding an intercooler and recirculation valve. Will this be a worth while modification?

 

In a word, YES!!! Those two mods make a whole lot of difference(for the better) on the EA82T. The other is the exhaust. Go 2-1/2" from the turbo back and you should be good to go. Nissan/Datsun fuel injectors(from the 280ZX, IIRC) should be a direct bolt on. Also the Oil Cooler idea is a very good one. And like GD said, freshen up the cooling system. Another thing you might think about is addiing a 2 core radiator to keep the engine temps in check.

 

Patrick

Edited September 3, 200916 yr by 4WDFrenzy

No expert but my advice!

 

1) Complete tune-up if you don't know if one was already done.

 

2) Be sure the cooling system is functioning adequately.

 

3) Put an intercooler on it. It REALLY should have one from reading old posts on inlet temperatures,

 

4) Get your fuel injectors cleaned. Send them out to RC engineering or someone else. My theory is that many, many people have had blown headgaskets due to fuel injectors #1 and/or #3 going bad over time, causing those cylinders to overheat. Send your injectors out to be cleaned so you'll be 'cool' in this respect,

 

5) Change out all the rubber hoses you can get your hands on. Vacuum hoses that are hard and brittle or restricted/plugged is a pain to be working with. Change as many of them out as you can so you KNOW that they aren't the problem if one arises,

 

6) Ground wires......add new ones. Do earth grounding and add your own grown wires if you can. Sand down rusted spots where ground wires are already attached and make sure you have good contact.

 

 

Now that you've taken care of the electrical, fueling and water cooling..........

 

1) Add a free flowing exhaust to the car,

2) Get a custom made undersized pulley,

3) Change out the stock intake filter for a freer flowing one (K&N I have always likes). The stock box could be changed out for a cone filter but around town driving may suck a bit with it being exposed to heat in the engine bay.

 

Important!! You haven't turned up the boost yet. You are still on the stock turbo but should be pushing out more power now........

 

4) Get an exhaust gas temperature [EGT] gauge, air/fuel ratio gauge and boost gauge. Monitor these religiously. Shoot for an EGT temperature to what you have with stock boost.

 

That's all I can think of for now. I honestly don't think you can get away with turning up the boost since you may already be running lean with the exhaust/intake modifications. If not, crank up boost in 1psi increments and look at your gauges like your life depended on it. Higher flowing injectors are needed if you plan on turning up from stock and a way to control them.

 

This was the route I was going and everything was great. I already knew I needed new injectors as they were aleady starting to go lean. The turbo was upgraded with a GT17 from a Saab. All was good but the car rusted to death. Even with no cranking up the boost, it was a 35whp gain. Wish I could start on this again.

 

And again, the most important things I can think of that you should look for in all of this is keeping the engine COOL from all your fluids perspective. Keep the EGT close to stock temps and monitor like your life depended on it. Make sure your electrical systems are grounded well. Good luck!

Edited September 3, 200916 yr by Myxalplyx

Thanks for the advice. I should add some background on this car...

 

This car had a complete rebuild in 2004 in preparation for the GRM $2004 challenge. The heads were ported and decked and a 5 angle valve grind was included. A bov was added to the stock boost pipe and many gauges to monitor things. A TWE down pipe was added and a straight pipe exhaust with just a glasspack. The air box was gutted. there is a manual boost adjuster on the car set to 10psi (as it was for the challenge). Custom wound springs and a custom camber plate were used to improve turn-in.

 

I think this car is well built. I however want to make it nearly bullet proof (well more so than it is now) and have a bit more power.

 

My plans (after reading things here) are:

oil cooler

intercooler

280zxt injectors

XT-6 sway bars

WRX turbo

 

 

for reference this is the car

Edited September 4, 200916 yr by vagen

Depending upon what internals were used when the engine was built, will dictate how much boost you can push.

And how long it will last.

The only thing I havent done on your list is install my 250cc injectors and a oil cooler.

And I think I have already blown some rings after around 30,000 mi.

Keep the boost down, no more than 12lbs, and you might be ok.

 

For a while.

I don't plan to turn up the boost from it's current setting, just improve the efficiency and gain power from that.

Have you considered changing the intake to a spyder?

 

I have 137awhp and 171tq on my setup.

That was at 12lbs, but now I'm running between 9-10lbs.

And it still has lots of grunt.

Where does the spider Intake come from?

Where does the spider Intake come from?

 

87.5 XT Turbo models and 87 up XT NA models.

The turbo model is preferred due to cooling lines for the turbo.