franbev Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Here's a link to their website. https://www.facebook.com/BackToThe80sMN/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azdave Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 10 hours ago, Loyale 2.7 Turbo said: Let me say that your Subie has one of the Cleanest Engine bays that I've seen. Kind Regards. Thanks! I've got about 30 miles on it since getting the engine back in and so far, so good. Before the long test drive to work and back yesterday, I installed all the missing/worn out shifter bushings and got the shifter throws back to spec. I swear I could move the shifter over a foot left or right when I first got the car. It was light the shift rod was barely attached to anything. The past owner really let this thing go to the dogs. I also had a bad fuel leak at the fuel line damper at the output of the pump. The pump was not that old but the rubber disc in the damper was leaking. To stop the leak, I installed a very short 8-32 screw and gasket to seal the hole. I'll have maybe a little more pump noise in the lines now but that's better than leaking fuel. I discovered that the 4WD option is working, I just don't see the lamp on the dash so probably an easy fix The exhaust really needs attention next. Someone tried to weld up rust holes while the pipes were in the car so it leaks still as you can imagine. I also discovered a bad front strut on the driver's side so a fresh front pair are on order. Sometimes, the strut will not compress at all and yet it is not collapsed. I can sometimes get it to compress and bounce but I hear an odd gurgling noise instead of the normal shhh,shhh sound. Odd. I'm happy with the purchase so far. The A/C is working after adding about 12 ounces of R152a but I think think it has way too much lube and leak detector in the system so a good flush and fill will be in the future. For now, I have cool air so I'll work on more important stuff. Fuel pump assembly https://photos.app.goo.gl/ofobbzqY65rFdtVK6 Fuel pump pic showing where I installed a small screw in place of where the rubber damper tab was located. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8HoGV6XNUNRGP2Ae9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azdave Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) Working to replace the front struts in my 87 DL wagon mentioned above. I see posts from ten years ago about how parts are hard to find. It's not any easier today. I got one set from Rockauto and they are not correct but close enough that I could make them work. They each have a manufacturing defect so they will be returned. One has the brackets welded on the wrong side and the other has apparently leaked out nearly all the nitrogen. These struts are Sachs made in Mexico but I can't find a date code. One strut has almost no compression resistance compared to the other. The bad strut I removed from the left has an odd failure mode. When all disconnected from the car and spring assembly, I can push the rod down easily but it will not come back up, even when I pull on it. Something locks it in the down position but it eventually rises back up, either slowly or sometimes with a bang when the spring was still in place. I have a new pair of struts arriving from another vendor to try my luck with their stock. I'll bet it is all old and dusty too but that should not in itself mean it is bad. The struts I'm trying are Sachs 031172 (R) and 031173 (L). The car is going to sit a little higher since I can't locate the exact struts I need. See the photo of where the spring perch will be compared to the old. I've seen posts about this on other threads here where manufacturers try to make a one-size-fits-all solution. Sourcing parts for 35 years old cars sure can be an adventure but I enjoy the challenge. Edited June 22, 2022 by azdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 The next thing to look into would be replaceable cartridges that get spotted into the tube with a screw cap holding them in place. When one dies just replace the cartridge with a new one, retain your strut for reuse. Amit could cost a little bit to get this setup sorted but if you pick a common model of cartridge to use you shouldn’t have any issues for parts in this department Other option is to convert to 5 stud and EJ brakes - the front end uses an EJ strut, and there are still many of them around! That’s a lot of work to get around a strut issue though. Other benefits are the brake upgrade (plus parts available!) and almost endless choice of rims… Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azdave Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 On 6/23/2022 at 5:29 AM, el_freddo said: The next thing to look into would be replaceable cartridges... Thanks for the alternative suggestions. The seconds set of Sachs struts arrived with exactly the same deficiencies as the first set from Rock Auto so for now, I went with using them after a few tweaks to make them fit properly. The front end now sits a little higher due to the spring perch height difference but that actually seems to level out the stance. One thing the strut work revealed is a bad outer CV joint on the passenger side axle so another thing to purchase. Right now, I just want to get some miles on this car and see if I want to keep it long-term or sell it later this fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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