:banana:There is no tag under the hood to tell me the motor size

How can I tell if it is 2.2 or 2.5...It seems that my Haynes book shows both were used

Had an exhuast noise..I found out today one bolt was missing at the block where the Y pipe attaches (yes it was stipped)--so I tapped a 7/16-14 and put a new bolt

Had a very noisy bearing in the P/S pump..changed with a spare

Doing rear brakes

Drove it down the street earlier...sounds like a bad bearing...makes noise with steering wheel straight or turning it to left...quiets down with any turning of steering wheel to right

Was a little concerned about some shuttering when driving in a tight circle

 

 

Another question I have not seen on the board...where does everyone grab the motor when lifting it out?

I have never seen a 93 with a 2.5. However, the way Haynes does this sort of thing, they'll give you instructions for both because the 2.5 WAS available in some models later on. I'll bet dollars to donuts that you have the 2.2.

 

As far as where to grab the motor when lifting...There should be an eye up front. Grab that first. Then, in the back, if I remember right, there is a little metal bar between to bolts on the engine side of the flywheel housing. I usually grab that.

Your 93 will have the EJ22, the 2.2 motor. The 2.5 phase 1 started with the 97 model. The 2.2 is a very bullet proof motor. They run a long time before wearing out. Typical to go 250 to 300K+ before needing a rebuild.

 

Yep, sound like a bad wheel bearing with the noise from what you described.

 

If it were me, I would pull the road wheels to see how much brake pad you have left?

 

Is this car just front wheel drive or all wheel drive?

 

Prolly best to replace the timing belt and water pump and front seal. Your 2.2 is a non interference motor, so if the timing belt breaks, the valves don't hit the piston and bend.

 

Have fun with your new "free" car. I hope there are many miles left in the car for you to enjoy!

There was no 2.5 in '93. To confirm what it is, look at the top front of the engine block under the alternator--engine model should be cast in the block there.

Drove it down the street earlier...sounds like a bad bearing...makes noise with steering wheel straight or turning it to left...quiets down with any turning of steering wheel to right

Was a little concerned about some shuttering when driving in a tight circle

 

Does sound like a bad bearing - the shuddering could be an axle but it could also be torque bind - does the car have an automatic transmission?

 

GD

Does sound like a bad bearing - the shuddering could be an axle but it could also be torque bind - does the car have an automatic transmission?

 

GD

 

 

yep it's an automatic...4wd

It has all the same brand tires ...fronts were a little more worn than backs so I rotated today...nuts! I meant to measure how close/far the tread depths compared

Front brakes almost new...just did rears....was hoping to test drive again after correcting tire pressures and rotating tires...BUT,,,,the passenger side rims were so stuck to ther rotor, I had to finally take a sledge to kknock them off,,,in my zeal, I whacked the darn valve and have to get a new one put on....never had that kind of problem with any of the scores of subs I have had

yep it's an automatic...4wd

It has all the same brand tires ...fronts were a little more worn than backs so I rotated today...nuts! I meant to measure how close/far the tread depths compared

Front brakes almost new...just did rears....was hoping to test drive again after correcting tire pressures and rotating tires...BUT,,,,the passenger side rims were so stuck to ther rotor, I had to finally take a sledge to kknock them off,,,in my zeal, I whacked the darn valve and have to get a new one put on....never had that kind of problem with any of the scores of subs I have had

 

 

 

Hope you applied some anti-seize cream to the facing of the rotor before reinstalling the road wheels. The anti-seize does a good job preventing the rims from sticking to the rotors in the future.

when lifting out the motor, use the little hook L shaped bracket on the right rear side top, and the front alternator loop mount bolt.

Hope you applied some anti-seize cream to the facing of the rotor before reinstalling the road wheels. The anti-seize does a good job preventing the rims from sticking to the rotors in the future.

 

 

I am constantly using anti sieze...I wish the factory did so also...!

 

also....thanks for the tip bheinen

i like using an old seat belt to lift the engine. you can thread it through the intake manifold and if you need to you can adjust it side to side easily.

i like using an old seat belt to lift the engine. you can thread it through the intake manifold and if you need to you can adjust it side to side easily.

 

John

Nice tip. In actuality, thats what I have used in the past,,,the intake. I have a very smooth polyester 1/2" dia rope...easy to rotate engine if needed