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repair or replace - 96 2.2L


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10 replies to this topic

#1 johnceggleston

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:36 PM

i just picked up a 96 legacy 2.2L auto w/ 139k miles. the previous owner was in the process of replacing the head gaskets, in the car, when the center top bolt on the driver side snapped.

history: (as it was told to me)

they got the car in feb of this year, and drove it for a few months (less than 1k miles). it over heated and they replaced the radiator. it over heated again and someone diagnosed bad head gaskets. the son opened it up and as he was putting the first head on he snapped a bolt. i think he crossed threaded it.

is it practical to try and remove the 1/2" stub of a bolt and then re-assemble the engine or should i just pick up a good used 2.2L w/ 125k and go from there?

the body is in good shape, interior is dirty, driver seat is worn out, tires should pass but not by a whole lot. trans, awd, brakes and bearings are reported to be good. axles are new.

let me know what you think.

thanks,
john

#2 outbackusjunkus

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:44 PM

I would try to fix this one, thats not a lot of miles for a 2.2. Maybe, if the threads are shot, you could just use a helicoil, or some type of insert like they do for the Northstar engines.

#3 strat

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:45 PM

i'd take a shot at pulling out the busted stud. most it will cost you is a little aggravation and possibly a broken drill bit or two... if you fail, then go for the used motor.

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:52 PM

Get the bolt out and heli-coil it. Should go back together. These engines are reliable enough on the bottom end that I would just fix it.

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#5 Rooster2

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:55 PM

i'd take a shot at pulling out the busted stud. most it will cost you is a little aggravation and possibly a broken drill bit or two... if you fail, then go for the used motor.



Agree with Strat. Doesn't sound like you have much or any money invested in this car. Take a shot at drilling out the busted stud. Use the highest quality drill bits you can find. Someone suggested a helicoil, I tried that once with poor results, but maybe that was just my poor work.

Sounds like a good cleaning, and a better seat from a wrecking yard will round out your wish list.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 06:42 PM

John - if you're the type that thinks extractors are a good way to remove a sheared bolt - then do not touch this motor.

If you're smart (which I know you are!), then fix it. Do yourself a favor and buy some high quality (for hard metals) left handed drill bits to get this thing out. I've had to order them as local places don't carry them, but they are worth it. Get a right angle attachment so you can do it in the car. Use oil and drill it out. The drilling and heating/expanding/contracting due to drilling will eventually pull it out (remember to drill in reverse with LH bits!). You have a chance at pulling it out without needing to helicoil but like already mentioned sounds like the threads are borked.

Extractors absolutely suck. Anything an extractor can remove, is removable by numerous other methods that aren't nearly as dangerous. Snap off an extractor and you're definitely in for a nightmare.

Depending on centering you can start with a big bit or start with a small pilot hole then work you're way up.

I mean heck - replacing the engine requires pulling it - so at the very least pull this one to fix it. Even if you're not comfortable doing it, this is like eating cake to a machine shop, take them the block and they'll have it out in 20 minutes and you're out 1 our labor costs, no big deal.

Edited by grossgary, 30 November 2009 - 06:46 PM.


#7 johnceggleston

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 07:43 PM

I mean heck - replacing the engine requires pulling it - so at the very least pull this one to fix it. Even if you're not comfortable doing it, this is like eating cake to a machine shop, take them the block and they'll have it out in 20 minutes and you're out 1 our labor costs, no big deal.



thanks gary, this is the wisdom i was looking for. i'm not opposed to trying, unless an ignorant failure on my part prevents any other attempts.

the challenge of the broken bolt is not as threatening as the task of re-assembling an engine that has parts on the back seat, the floor of the back seat, the floor of the front seat and the trunk, since i have never done head gaskets before. and i do not see the coffee can full of "all the bolts and nuts" that i usually have when i pull parts off of a car. the way i work it will feel like a jigsaw puzzle.

i may swap for now just to get the car running and then work on the engine in my leisure. there's always a place for a non-interference engine with new gaskets and timing belt. if i get the engine i saw today, i'll have less than $600 in both the car and engine. of course, i don't think i will be able to resist a new t-belt and seals, not to mention the seperator plate, so all of that adds.

thanks for the help.

#8 davebugs

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 08:03 PM

I'd yank it. Look it over good on the engine stand. Then probably take it to a machine shop in all actuality.

I'm not big on the whole easyout stuff if it can be helped at all. Same with heli-coils but there aren't many choices when things are this screwed up.

When you yank it I'd dryfit all the parts to make sure you have them all so you'll know if that is an additional concern.

#9 grossgary

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 10:35 PM

if you end up repairing it some day, folks on here will have all the bolts and goodies you need to complete it probably. not really many "parts" to be missing, just bolts and lots of big parts - valve covers, etc. enough people have stuff lying around to help you complete this should you ever go that route.

#10 svxpert

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 11:03 PM

yeah, like posted above, roll the dice and try to get the bolt out. take out the engine, its alot easier. I'm working on a complete rebuild of a SOHC 2.5 in my shop right now. here is a pic of the shortblock.

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#11 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 05:02 PM

That is one greasy pig of a motor!

X2 on trying to save the 2.2. You may even be able to just run a tap into the block and clean up whatever threads are still there. If it's only in there 3/8" or so, the remaining good threads beyond that should be enough to hold the new head bolt securely.

The remaining parts shouldn't be that hard to figure out where they go, as long as they're all there.




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