outbackusjunkus

This thread is two years old, I'm sure he figured it out by now.

Perfect, thanks Gloyale!

Both Legacy Outback with auto trans...will a '99 rear diff work in a '00?

The trans output shaft that the throwout bearing slides on is alumminum, and wears down over time. The gap there creates chatter, they sell a tube that goes over the shaft along with an oversize throwout bearing that fixes this, but they are kind of spendy. Could be that...

Sometimes they just stick together. I usually hit against the flat spot on the block above the starter first, have an old trowl w/o a handle, sharpened blade that I use there between the block and bell housing. Once you get it to crack a bit, putty knives or small screwdrivers work fine to work it apart evenly. Don't feel bad, the '05 I did on Sunday took an hour to work apart.

So I got a good deal on a 2.5 out of a Saab, same ding dang engine but half the price that they want for one out of a Subie. I'll do better on this one money wise selling the VVT engine, since the '05 has high miles anyway. Thanks again for all the help, should be on the road by Sunday nite...

Do they lack power? I only found one other guy who's done it and he thought it was sluggish...

Yup, its VVT (variable valve timing). I found another '05 engine, am going to sell this '07. It'll just be too much work swapping the harness...thanks for the help!

I'm trying to put a 2007 2.5 engine out of an smashed Outback into a good 2005 Outback, but the 2007 engine has some sensor looking deals on the front left head the '05 does not. I planned on using the '05 intake, but what are these sensors (or whatnot) and can I leave them unplugged? The '07 is the left pic, the '05 on the right, should be able to click to enlarge...

Wonder why the ECU swap didn't work. Did you still have the EGR solinoid wired up when you did? I did some more searching on this and I guess the computer switches the solenoid, then looks for changes in the O2 sensor reading to make sure the system is working. I think the non EGR ECU swap will be the only way to get rid of these codes, and w/all EGR wires cut so it doesn't start "looking" for something it thinks should be there. Thread Hijack...accomplished.

You're talking about swapping in a non EGR engine, right? Once you put in the new engine, thats it. No extra hoses or parts, just a CEL that you'll never get rid of. Unless you are re-using the throttle body, than there's gonna be a few extra hoses to plug up...

I've got a spare '05 engine if you need parts...

Problem solved...picked up a rolled '07 with only 34,000 miles for $1950 at a local salvage auction. Should be able to part out whats left and get my money back for the engine, plus won't have to dink around or even worry about gaskets, timing belts, etc.. Life is good. Also got the new '05 home...black on black...5 speed...movin' up. Anybody want to buy a rust free '97 OBW?

If the intakes will swap, would the DBW matter? wouldn't that stay with the intake/throttle body?

I'm not worried if it has a little less oomph, as long as it runs right and doesn't throw codes. The engine is shot, it was run pretty low on oil. I don't want to re-use the heads, over 150,000 miles anyway...

I forgot to say, it is a 2.5L. So the blocks from 2000 on are pretty much the same? Edit: So I quit being lazy and looked around the net, seems like the 00-04 used the ej251, while 05+ uses the ej253. the ej251 uses a map sensor, the 253 is maf. So If I swap the cam gears and intake it should work...but would be nice to confirm that first...

Wondering if anyone knows what years or models will fit into an '05 outback with manual trans? This one has a rod knock, so I'll have the intake, cam gears, etc, so can swap that stuff over if need be.

I've had this with a '96 2.2, all it takes is a tiny piece of debris anywhere in the rocker arm assembly oil passeges to slow or stop oil flow and starve a lifter. Mine was around the size of a pin head, give or take, so check em well.

I'm no expert either, but I know the schreider valves (don't quote my spelling) are a common leak spot. These are the valves in where where you charge/discharge, you can take the caps off and put some soapy water on 'em to check...

Another (+1) for the cold weather. Was getting 26+ this fall with my '97 outback (2.2, new everything), but since the weather has been super cold here lately I only got 16 on the last tank. Some of that is letting it warm up before driving, but when it gets cold the MPG always tanks for me. Was the same way on the last Outback...and the one before that...

Could be transmission shaft...the part the throw out bearing slides back and forth on. Its aluminum, and wears down, the slop between it and the bearing causes chatter. They make a kit...an oversize throwout bearing that comes with a metal sleeve that you put over the aluminum shaft/tube.

This happened to me this fall, missfire on 2 cylinders at once (can't remember which ones). Ended up being crapped out injectors on both. By the way, 2.2 and 2.5 injectors are interchangable.

Thats the problem I'm having now. I wired in the flow sensor to the main harness, which got rid of one EGR code but bought me another (the valve thing). There are two vacuum connections to the flow sensor but who knows where they should go to fool the computer? Its the change in vacuum that its looking for that would be hard to duplicate. Am living with the light for now.

I towed an Outback w/AT that way...removed those four bolts and towed on a dolly for over 100 miles. Fast and easy.

The nose was starting to get better...but still there...then the temp gauge pegged and coolant was being pushed out the overflow. No leaks anywhere, so am pretty sure I missed a crack on that driver's side head (the only one that was leaking...or really needed to be machined) If anyone has '95, '96 heads...please let me know...posted WTB ad as well...