outbackusjunkus

Oops...Auto Value now that I think of it. Napa is usually where I go...yes...got it here in St. Cloud "ya sure ya betcha":banana:

+1 for that french/napa deal, the one I used was yellow and made things way easy...and fast . I didn't buy the spendy connector thing for the drill tho, just drilled out the center and ran a bolt with washers thru for an attachment.

Don't forget the flexplate is different, you'll want to use the 2.5's. I would check the seperator plate as well, the plastic ones always leak.

I remember reading years ago that you can dump 2500 in repairs per year on your used, paid for car, and still be money ahead over a newer vehicle. It makes sense when you consider depreciation, interest on the loan, and higher insurance. IMHO, if you still like the car and don't mind turning the wrench, I'd hang on to it.

Nathan, I've got a '95 postal engine in my Outback, if you need me to compare anything. You must do a lot of these swaps...thanks again for the help when I did mine...

When I did my 95 last month the cam seals came with the o-rings...used one for the back (right?) side and tossed the other (doh)...maybe they come with the cam seals now (they were from the subie dealer)

Yea...its the exact same for a 95 engine...wish I'd know about those cam O-rings tho...grrrrr. I would consider valve cover gaskets too...at that age and miles...

Whatever brand sealant you choose for the oil pump make sure it is a anaerobic sealer. Triple bond and permatex ultra grey are, but non silicone sealers, even the high temp stuff, can get into your oil passages and damage or even ruin your engine .

+1

Yup...95 was OBDII

You don't have to disconect the ps lines, just move the pump out of the way, the 2.5 line supports won't bolt up to the intake but it won't hurt anything that way. 2.2 and 2.5 ps brackets are the same. You don't even need to take off the hood...plenty of room. And, like Skip said, don't disconnect the ac, just move it out of the way. The 95 is probably best because only year for obd II, dual exhaust ports and non-interference design.

Clean swap...if ac car you will need to use the compressor bracket off the 2.5...the donor should have auto tranny so there is an egr valve. Thats it...too simple. Done a couple with no issues...

I don't mean to hijack this thread but one of my friends just offered me a free case of cold beer and a winning lottery ticket...should I take it?

Is the park brake stuck?

If it's a 2.2 you don't have to pull the rockers. They are pretty easy, clean the surfaces well (I use a 3m disk designed to clean gasket surfaces, it goes in a drill and really speeds things up) and follow the torque sequence carefully.

You should consider doing the head gaskets while the engine is out for the updated seperator plate...I don't know if it's the extreme weather we get here but everyone I know in MN that has a 2.5 has done head gaskets at least once. Just a thought...

The driver's side caliper did have some nasty cracks in the boots, hard to see until the pistons were compressed. Replaced with a junk yard part for now and everything seems to work right. Sure is nice to have decent brakes, thanks for all the help! BTW, PAezb, I see you're also in MN, if you are close to Big Lake...Rite Away Salvage has a pile of Soob's...

The pads were toast. I don't know the car's history...just got it running Saturday (another 2.5 to 2.2 conversion). None of the boots are torn and there are no leaks anywhere, so I'll just clean up/grease the slides and hope for the best. Good Idea for the rebuild, if they give me any trouble I'll go that route. Where did you get your parts for that? Also...I didn't know they made brake caliper grease...I've always used wheel bearing type. Will check on that too...thanks for the quick response...

Doing front brakes on 97 Outback...209,000 miles. Funny thing is...the inner pads are worn more toward the back then the front...about 3/16" to 1/4". About the same on the left and right sides of the car. Since this is a dual piston caliper...shouldn't they wear more evenly...or is this normal?

I had a airbag problem with my 97 outback...someone here sent part of a subaru manual which showed how to pull codes from that system. I don't know if its the same on your car...but all that was involved was jumping two connectors and watching the air bag light flash the codes. Hopefully someone here has the "real" manual and can chime in...I know its not in the Haynes book. I would also check all of the airbag connectors, if any of the "lock" thingys are not right it will also set off the light. 2.2's rock!

I know the 96 is a single exhaust port so the exhaust will be different, but can I use the intake off a 96 on a 95?

Well the trans fluid looked great, so rolled the dice/bought for 700. Another 2.2 transplant planned for next week, another 2.5 for the motor pile...

Thanks for the help! Commuter...did you do the clutch pack yourself?

I noticed it hadn't moved in almost a year so left my number, guy wants to sell but I want to look closer before making an offer. Am going back this weekend...no rust and decent tires...