outbackusjunkus

It does have that vent cap, which was removed twice now to bleed the air out. Maybe I'll just have to deal with it, but the last couple Outbacks I've had did not do this. I'll bet that head gasket still has a super slight leak...

'97 Outback with '96 2.2 engine. Once the car heats up, it sounds like a tap is running inside the car. This has to be noise from the heater core, but there are no leaks. Did a search, sounds like this is caused by air in the lines, so either head gaskets or rad cap. But I just did head gaskets (heads were machined, used subaru gaskets), water pump, thermostat, and rad cap. Tried parking on steep incline, removed radiater vent...topped off system to purge any air left...its been over a week now and this noise is driving me nuts. Maybe the headgaskets are still leaking? If this thing was a horse I'd shoot it...

Thought about that, but went the easy way. Spliced in that two wire senser off the 2.5 EGR into the wiring just before the engine and bingo...no more light. Its been a couple days now and the light has stayed gone, so looks like problem solved. Yay...

+1 on low coolant causing this code...replaced one once after doing head gaskets and didn't re-check the coolant level...was just some air in the system.

Nope, they can leak at the seams with no other problems. Have a 2.2 doing that to me now.

I'd get a third opinion. Nobody replaces head bolts.

FWIW...this car is now up and running with the '96 2.2 (w/o egr). the car ('97 OBW) is throwing the egr code but runs fine. I've done some more research, found a guy who swapped in another non-egr computer but it still threw the code...he ended up splicing the sensor into his wiring harness (just before the engine, as the new intake does not have the wiring for egr). its the two wire sensor that's on the intake of the egr motor, next to the egr valve. that cured his problem. i'm planning on doing the same...maybe this weekend when i pull the engine back out to fix leaky head gaskets (i know...2.2's aren't supposed to do that...but my 2nd used 2.2 in a row with bad head gaskets). I'll stop back with the result.

What now? I thought we were fighting about the fastest car in Alaska.

I would try to fix this one, thats not a lot of miles for a 2.2. Maybe, if the threads are shot, you could just use a helicoil, or some type of insert like they do for the Northstar engines.

It is the back bearing, and its rusty back there. gonna be good times for sure...

Good catch, it is an front wheel drive hub. I checked locally and used hubs are only $35 bucks, this really does sound like the way to go. Replacing them sounds like a total nightmare...

I've never done rear bearings on one of these...but Rockauto shows individual bearings and seals, or a complete hub by Timken (shown here on e-bay) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Axle-Bearing-and-Hub-Assembly_W0QQitemZ160371450415QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2556e2222f Would the hub be less work? Would this include all the seals and bearings/parts i would need? Any thoughts on Timken's quality?

I had multiple missfire codes recently, turned out several of my fuel injectors took a crap at once. Bad gas maybe? Ran like crap, no power, just replaced one by one and the corresponding codes went away. Only time I've personally seen all four codes at once was a 2.5 with a bad rod knock. I think it was playing heck with the knock sensor. Could it be a bad knock sensor with yours? Just wanted to help muddy the water...

Dp

No worries, 12 bucks is still a good deal for new lifters, am just glad to have it fixed.

Yup, even asked him about the thread over in the sale section with the discount and free t-shirt with any confirmed puchase. He said that was for cam purchases only (guess they forgot to say that) and I was already getting a discounted price.

I replaced the four that were flat, who knows how long they got hammered w/o oil. Delta Cam charged me a little morre than 9, I think 12 bucks each. still, not bad.

Found the problem, it was the oil passage inside the rocker arm assembly that was plugged. Took the sucker apart and there it was, a piece of who-knows-what stuck in the hole that feeds the lower rockers/lifters. The passeges are pretty small, didn't take much to plug it up. Anyway, good call Fairtax4me, thanks for the help...

I've done a few, the last one was a 2.2 into a '97 outback with 207,000 miles. Its now over 250,000 with no issues. Do it.

That sounds right, since the top row was fine. I'll pull the rocker assembly apart and clean everything out. New adjusters ordered, we'll see in a week or two (when I've got time to reassemble) if this does the trick. If anyone knows of a common place these things jam up let me know...

I bought a '96 2.2 with 100,000 miles for another 2.5 swap, but wanted to check everything/re-seal before install. Funny thing is, all 4 lower (exhaust) HLA's on the drivers side are shot. The rest pump up fine, (other side too) but these are just mush. So there has to be a blocked oil passage in order to trash all 4, right? Any tips on what to check before continuing?

I've had 5 90's Outbacks, I think the backlight worked on one radio. Pulled one apart a few years ago and replaced the bulbs with some from radio shack, but they were a little taller and the face never clipped back on right. Plus they were a pain to get at and replace.

Awesome. An easy fix like this is what I was hoping for. Pulled the engine last nite, looks like it'll need a clutch too, so it'll be a week or two before I have the parts and time to reassemble. Thanks for all the help, I'll follow up once everything is up and running... ...edit...wait a sec...this is a manual trans car...engine is also from a manual trans car...don't see how grounding the ECU is gonna help in this case...since this manual trans car is supposed to have an EGR...

It is a manual trans car, but the donor vehicle is long gone. So what year ECU should I look for...maybe a '95 legacy with MT?

Hmmm...somebody has to have figured this out by now....I know it doesn't hurt anything but don't want that light on....