outbackusjunkus

Acronym, stands for Power train Control Module. ECU, "brain box", same same.

I couldn't find the mark so took everything off...due for a new belt anyway. Now I can see the crank gear and everything is lined up correctly. No spark tho. I'll check for power at the coil tomorrow...also...do these have any kind of auto shut down relay? Could it be the PCM? I've got the identical car for my daily driver...if its easy to do maybe I should try that computer?

Good question...I didn't think to look at the crank position. It's hard to say, the balancer has a nice coating of surface rust and there is no definite mark. I checked my spare 2.2, it is clearly marked with notches at the front, middle, and back. I did find a small notch on the front only, which was about an inch left of the closest timing mark. I'm going to guess that it's a timing mark? If thats the case...why no misfire code...and all those unrelated ones?

Both timing covers are off now, and all marks line up properly on both sides. Belt looks good too, nice and clean in there. Diagnostic connector is not hooked to anything either. I was surprised not to find belt salad back there, after thinking about. I'll check the harness plugs on the back of the engine for damage tomorrow, but am out of ideas for now. Also checked the fuse boxes, only one blown was for clock/interior lights. The buzzer for the key stays on all the time too, even when everything is off and the doors are closed. Maybe I should start with the ignition switch? This is a crazy deal. Hey...what if its the alternator going bad?...throwing out voltage spikes and screwing everthing up...

I'll pull the covers tonite, but have the feeling its something else. This is just too weird of a CEL combination...conflicting...like you said.

yea, I edited my first post with codes from the scan gauge website. Do they look right now? my Haynes doesn't list a lot of them so have been searching around. I'll have to check on that connector later, as am at work right now. I searched the web a bit, theres another guy w/an '97 impreza with all the same codes too. But no answer was posted there either.

Mine did that, I used the door switch off one of the back doors to replace, since all four are the same...

This is '97 OBW...just bought last nite...200,000 miles. The fella said it was running fine, then just quit. I pulled 9 codes P0130 front o2 sensor P0136 rear o2 sensor P0500 vss sensor P1100 starter switch circuit malfunction P1101 neutral position switch circuit high input P1120 starter switch high input P1121 neutral position switch low input P1540 vehicle speed sensor malfun 2 Actually 11 codes, as the first three came up pending as well. My haynes manual does not list the last five codes, found most of those on the scan gauge website. It turns over fine...but won't fire...fans keep kicking on and off. I don't know where to start, I did a search here and found another guy with the same exact codes, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78170&highlight=p1101 but he never posted a resolution (maybe its the same car, ha ha.) My guess is one thing is causing most of these codes...any ideas? engine is 2.5, AT.

Thats where mine was, really tucked in there. It was also a standard metric size (I can't remember which size...was '95 2.2). I had the new one ready to go (with a little thread sealant) to do the quick "switch-aroo" but was still surprised at how much coolent got out.

Anyone know for sure what size the cam nuts are?

What if you took two sockets (same size as the plastic cam nuts), cut the backs off...and welded a bar between? I've got to do one of these soon, think I'm gonna make my own and save $140...

The HHO theory (Brown's gas) and water injection are two different things. HHO is created by burning the gas created when heating the water in this magical transducer thingy, also available on e-bay. This is a big trend now, with tons of small company's on-line selling a variety of kits from a few bucks to several thousand. Its not the HHO, but something about the way it combines with your fuel air mixture to raise the MPG. I don't think its real, but a ton of folks are buying into this.

Have done this...had to use the 2.5's AC bracket, and used the 2.5's flywheel/flex plate (heard they might be different). As said before, if the 2.2 is 96 or newer you will need the y-pipe too. Also, if the 2.2 does not have an EGR (most auto tranny doners don't, most manuals do) you will have to find a way to swap that over, somehow bypass it, or put up with the CEL. Mounts, wiring, throttle, airbox, etc. etc. all match right up. It really is that simple, don't even need to take the hood off...+1 for the 2.2...

I ordered in a used '95 2.2 (with 150,000 miles), for my Outback ('97) swap. It showed up covered in crud, and no thermostat. I pulled the covers off and the water pump was so shot the pully had like an of play up and down. The engine had gotten so hot the rear timing covers were melted to the engine. I didn't have time to return it, so throw some new gaskets, pump, etc. on it and went. That was almost thirty thousand miles ago...still going.

I took a chance, figured if the guy was trying to rip me off he wouldn't have mentioned the lifter noise in the first place. The motor was just too clean to say no to, even the hoses still look like new.

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Know a guy who will sell me an 96 2.2 Outback motor for $150. He says it had a ticking noise, so they replaced with another 2.2 he had with fewer miles. That motor had the same tick, so they removed the lifters and "pumped them up in oil", which resolved the issue. He thinks thats all this motor needs as well...Does this sound right? Oh, 114,000 miles on it...

I had to replace mine ('97 Outback), just followed the instructions in the Haynes manual. $50 part at the junk yard, took about an hour to put in. I'd say 96-99 would work...have you checked http://www.car-part.com? p.s. You can't fix the broken one...

My guess is that it would work...but you want one off a car with the steering still connected. Often they pull the rack out, and the steering wheel gets spun more than the the spring can wind. Just a tip if you're pulling it yourself...they are a delicate part that way....

Horn worked fine with the spring broke. Also, not all Legacys have the crash sensors up front. Mine only has the impact sensor in the brain box (which is located under front of the console).

I had this code on my '97 outback...ended up being the clock spring be behind the steering column.

My '97 has 231,000 miles on it and works great...just keep the fluid clean and keep truckin'...

When I was looking for a '95 engine this last summer...they were going for around $400-$600 with similar miles. I would say its worth 500-1000 depending on overall condition and how bad you want it...

Has the timing belt been serviced yet? Water pump? Is there a seperator plate leak (it may not be the valve covers...I'd have it checked)...it would suck to have to dump another grand into a new (to you) car....

Stay away from the new ones from keylessridesoutlet on e-bay...mine didn't work unless you were almost touching the car...then the lock button quit working after only a few months.