outbackusjunkus

I'm looking at getting another 97 Outback with a bad 2.5, this one has an automatic trans though...and 200,000 miles on the car. Because of the miles and questionable maintenance record (motor blew when timing belt broke), I wonder if I should even buy. Short story long, what kind of lifespan do these transmissions have? Also, I did a search and found one where Nipper said 97.5 on were better, so wondering if there is any way to tell if this has the better trans other than the build date? Thanks for any help with this potential "resurrection"...

A heat gun can help, around outer edge of windhield to soften the old adhesive before cuting. "Duckbill" style knifes are available for this purpose, 15 year old windshelds are tough to get w/o cracking (no jinx), good luck...

Yes...under dash...on passenger side...far left side...almost to the firewall...there is a white tab hangs down that should be easy to find...moves front to back...not up and down...good luck with the hip...

No, you can use newer but 95 with auto tranny is only year with dual exhaust port and EGR, others will work but may require using the donor Y pipe as well.

You may want to check the oil seperator plate...I did this swap w/95 2.2 in my 97 outback...had to pull the motor out a couple weeks later to fix. If the plate is plastic it should be replaced with alloy type. In case you didn't know...

I would try to pry off first, before drilling or doing anything that would weaken the bolt. If that sucker breaks off clean you're really in trouble...happened to me once, tried to drill out but eventually had to scrap the crank. If it's a 2.5 I've got a set of timing covers around here somewhere...good luck...

Real time data is nice sometimes (like temp, rpm, etc), some have this, some don't (wish mine did, like the old obd I scanner had). A thought....

I used a racheting strap, hooked under one frame rail, around the pully, then hooked to other frame rail. I cut a piece of serpentine belt to put around the pully first, for grip/to keep the strap from slipping. May sounds crazy but worked like a charm...

I had the same problem once...button on my 97 outback is near the security control box...part of the wires that plug in the top...just start where the wires plug in and go back...black button...hard to find but is there...maybe your's is the same...

I ran in to the same thing w/my 97 Outback. 2.5's cost more because of supply/demand...hard to find because of all the head gasket failures...I looked forever before going with the 95 2.2. Paying more does not mean better, I've been screwed before going that route. Try to buy from a salvage yard with a good reputation...ask questions...like did they compression test...where was the car hit...in the front...how hard...I even ask to check the doner car...if its available. Folks who take good care of their cars usually change the oil. Check the engine closely before paying. Its always a gamble...hope this helps your odds...good luck...

I've had vacuum leaks cause this...

Here are the pics...sorry for the delay. Pics include installed 2.2 motor, the fuel line mounts that don't line up, and the ac bracket (from 2.5) mounted on the 2.2. These are as big as the site will allow...let me know if you need any other angles. Thanks again to all that helped with this, would not have attempted this swap otherwise (and the "Deer Hunter" would parts by now). Best forum of all time...

Still running strong...never threw a code. After the swap, erased the pics because I didn't think anyone would want to see them. Expected problems...but only things thing that didn't line up was the fuel line brackets (where they attach to the intake). Good enough, I left 'em. Keep the 2.5 flywheel and ac bracket, and like that annoying commercial, you're "good to go". I'll re-take some pics this weekend AND POST, have loaned out the car. Remember, I used a 95 at motor so exhaust and egr were a breeze. No offense to the 2.5 lovers out there (I know you're sensitive, like your head gaskets), but best thing that ever happened to this car. Power is fine (never was a sports car), and milage is finally in the upper 20's. What can I say.

Keep an eye on e-bay, they show up there once in a while...good luck

After installing my 2.2 this weekend, my brother showed me a trick when adding coolant. After we filled the rad, he pulled the upper rad hose, and the top heater hose on the back of the motor. Then poured the antifreeze into the top rad hose until it came out the heater hose. After the car warmed up I topped off, many miles since and haven't had any issues or had to add coolant since. Quick and almost too simple, any thoughts?

What years are you thinking of when you say "older"? The guy at the parts counter pulled up a schematic on his computer screen for a 97 legacy which showed front impact sensors and part numbers...

Check your PM

Stopped by local Subaru dealer for more dash bulbs, asked if my Outback for sure had impact sensors. They checked the year on the computer and said...yes. Maybe run the VIN to be sure...no. He could not explain why, exactly, but obviously not all Outbacks in 97 have impact sensors. Short story longer, three plugs did not have the lock thing engaged, including the one at the control unit. That cleared one code, and a slight gamble on a junkyard roll connector ($45, not $280 at the dealership) took care of the other. Happy days! Air back light off, dash lights back on. And I found a better junkyard with alot of Subies to cannibalize. Thanks again to all who helped out, D1Driver, couldn't have done it without that airbag manual...

One more thing, this clutch deal bothers me a bit...the pressure plate gives your pedel the resistance/rebound..., if the clutch pedel drops to the floor with little resistance (by itself) AND the clutch disengages...than you need a new pressure plate (or clutch assem I suppose).

Traced the front impact wires back from the airbag control unit, they come up by the driver's side door post and get lost in the maze under the dash. I dug around under there for a while, then switched outside. Pulled the wiring cover off the main line going to the front, but could not find any cut or spliced wires. I am hoping someone out there has one like this they can look at, to see where the wires from the crash sensors go. Or I could part out, it's pretty much disassembled....

The hydraulic reservoir is on the firewall, between the master cylinder and airbox. If not hydraulic there will be a cable that runs from the clutch pedel to the bell housing. If you have the proper thermostat, it has a rubber seal built into it, so no sealant is recomended. Make sure your lower hose clamp is tight...and make sure you didn't over tighten and crack the plastic thermostat housing. If you did, I might have a spare one. Good luck....

Thanks to all for the help...I'd be willing to bet that resistor is in there somewhere, but looked everywhere and cannot find...my bet is it is where the wires from the AWOL crash sensors plug in or were cut,...any bets where that is? I pulled airbag control unit, looks good inside...no burnt circuts or signs of tampering. Have to find those wires...

Thats what I'm starting to think...whatever was done to hide the problem could be causing the light. Anyone out there a criminal genious? Where would one look to find the "bandage"? There has to be one somewhere, or the light would have always been on. Maybe too, thats why there is more that one problem code thrown...

Am trying to attach a picture of what I've got going...if anyone can tell me where the wires are supposed to go...then I can trace back and know what I have to go find...I know where a rear-ended outback is...this sucks...

Holy crap. Took the plastic inner fender off and NO AIRBAG SENSOR! Both sides. Even double checked in the Haynes manual for proper location. You can see were something used to be bolted to the stud there, but no sensor, no yellow wires...starting to freak out. Only thing I can think of is when vehic was repaired, they did not re-install...Anyone know where the wires that go to these sensors end up??? I can't find any cut wires, or empty plug-ins...any other ideas before I put the hit out on the body shop????