for wheel bearing replacement:
- New wheel bearings
- Breaker bar
- 36mm axle socket that fits on your breaker bar
- I believe I used every size between 10 and 17
- You'll also want at least a 17mm box end wrench
- Obviously a socket wrench
- A socket extension
- Wheel bearing grease
- Inner AND outer seals
- Jack stands
- Lug wrench (I really hope one of these lives in your car anyway...)
- 10mm flare wrench for brake lines
Additional bits if you're doing the brake upgrade:
- The brake parts (TheSubaruJunkie has a really nice swap thread here <http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=49975> So I won't go into to much detail)
- Flare tool
- Flare nuts for the new brake line flares
Start by loosening the axle nut and the lug nuts before you jack up the car.
Take the cotter pin out of the axle nut.
The nut is 36mm and on there wicked tight. I had to literally jump on the breaker bar to break it loose.
block up the car. I don't have jack stands but an old generator stator and some 2x4s work just fine...
Take off the wheel, loosen, and take off the axle nut, the big washer, and the cone washer.
Take off the hub, it should just pull off, but on the left side it needed a good amount of pounding to come loose. No idea why and I probably destroyed it. I converted to disc brakes anyway though
Here's what it looks like with the hub off
At this point you can pound the axle through a little bit, you can't pound it all the way out, but loosening it will make it easier to get the suspension arm off.
Don't pound directly on the end of the stub shaft or you'll bugger it up. Put a block of wood between the shaft and your hammer
Now you'll want to remove the strut. The nut is welded on so just unbolt it from the inside where the arrow is.
Now remove the 3 bolts on the side of the suspension arm. You can see I'm using a box end wrench here. These bolts did NOT want to come out on either side. So I had to pound them around. Air tools would be awesome here...
The nuts on these are also welded on the back side
Now you'll have to remove the last bolt on the suspension arm. The bold head is on the inside (red arrow) and the nut is not welded. So you'll have to put a wrench on it.
Now you're here' all the bolts out. Just a little pounding left and the arm is off!
Before you take it off, you should disconnect the brake line at the red arrow, but most likely it won't come loose. So just be careful with it. If it doesn't come loose, however, you need to cut the mount with a hacksaw.
Hacksawing the mount ...
You'll have to disconnect the brake line from the old drum brake. I didn't want it leaking all day long so I plugged it up. A little ghetto, but it did the job
With the brake line taken care of, safely out of the way, and everything unbolted the suspension arm falls to the ground. Plop!
Next thing I did was take the drum brake off because it makes it easier. You don't have to, but I swapped to disc brakes. So it had to come off anyway.
After taking out the 3 bolts, and some pounding the brake is off!
Now you're ready to start with the wheel bearing!! The part that I thought was the most fun. Putting new shiny bits in!
First we need to get the old one out.
Pull out the outer seal. Can be a real hassle to get out, but you're not going to hurt anything, so have at it!
Then pull out the old bearing. YUCK! I can see why that was making awful noise.
Now for the inner side. Here's what it looks like before taring it apart.
Pull out the seal.
Next you have to take out the ring. Unless you're really special and have the tool to do this, you need to pound it around.
I used a 1/4" punch and a hammer.
The left side came out without TO much pounding, but the right side just wouldn't budge. After some closer inspection it seems the last person to change the bearings punched the side in to keep it from backing out.
It's a little hard to see because it's all gritty and rusty, so I circled it in red
Edited by 987687, 23 April 2010 - 02:25 PM.