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EA81 engine swap... First Timer ANY tips Appreciated.
Posted 01 March 2004 - 07:43 PM
Posted 01 March 2004 - 08:02 PM
1. Drain and remove the radiator.
2. Disconnect all electrical connections - alternator, distributor, and anything else you have (A/C, etc)
3. Disconnect the throttle cable.
4. Remove the starter from the bell houseing, and set it in the spare tire area.
5. Disconnect the Y pipe from the heads.
6. Undo the two engine mounts from the cross-member. Leave the mounts on the engine tho.
7. Disconnect the pitching stopper from the firewall side.
8. Remove the rest of the engine to tranny bolts and nuts.
9. Put a jack under the tranny, and lift it about 2" off the cross-member, and support it with a jack-stand.
10. Get a friend and each of you grab a valve cover and hoist the engine out of there. You could use a picker, or a chain and a 2x4 also....
Installation is the reverse pretty much.
Posted 01 March 2004 - 08:36 PM
you could drop in an ea82 motor just as easily, if you didnt have a new motor already
Posted 01 March 2004 - 11:26 PM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 01:40 AM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 02:16 AM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 03:44 AM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 03:54 AM
take them the measurments and it should be like $100 for the drive line to be cut and ballanced.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 04:12 AM
1. people use the EA82 flywheel so you can get the better clutch setup - or even the XT6 setup. Something you wouldn't understand since you have small tires. The timing marks can be transfered over to the new flywheel - you just have to plan ahead.
2. You don't NEED Jerry's kit for the install. His kit ALLOWS you to use the stock levers. It can be done just fine using the EA82 linkage. Your 4WD lever will just move is all.
3. His kit is designed for 4WD manual cars - not just Brat's. Your's was an auto - thus the needed changes. Austins was a single range EA71 - thus his needed changes as well. Floorpan sheet metal is different for almost every year/transmission, so minor asjustements are pretty much the norm for any sort of tranny swapping action.
Also - the 5 speed will not change your gearing appreciably. It gives you more gears, but in the same range. 5th gear on a 5 speed will be almost the same as 4th gear on a 4 speed. Your "redlining" in 4th will just be "redlining" in 5th. And if you lift it with big tires, you'll not be using 5th much at all - likewise, you'll not be using 4th on the 4 speed. (unless you have an 81/82 D/R with the lower gearing....). However - if a lift is in your future, then you WANT a 5 speed or an 81/82 D/R because you'll at least have 4 useable gears that way. The 81/82 is nice since it's a direct bolt in. The 5 speed requires considerably more work, but yeilds a slightly lower 4WD low range for the effort, and about the same gearing results - just with an unused 5th gear.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 07:59 AM
Also, use a engine balancer if you hoist it, or at the very least, use two chains (think upside down 'V') and hook on the hook at the front, and the hook-ish piece of metal on the bellhousing. I didn't realize this my first engine swap, and it was a bitch getting it out with it hanging ~60 degrees off center.
Putting the new one in, you may have problems getting the transmission and engine to align. An engine leveler really helps here. Otherwise, just keep trying different angles, lifting the tranny up higher, that kind of stuff. Eventually they just sort of fit together leaving you wondering what you did different.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 10:43 AM
I suggest getting pb blaster and spraying exhaust manifold bolts. Mine were so rusty that I broke them off.
I removed the engine alone, using the tree and the chain method. Took me 3 days to be honest with you, but I've never done anything of that magnitude.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 12:10 PM
As for the EA-82 flywheel there are two schools of thought, one that its ok and the other ie CCR that suggest that its a very bad idea because of the different size bolt holes that allow the flywheel to wobble. just a word of caution.
Good luck with your swap, i took an engine out sunday in 35 minutes. however i'm missing some parts and it won't go back in till thursday.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 01:55 PM
As far as the 5sp. conversion. There are alot of theories and misconceptions. I have done alot of these. You can use the EA81 flywhel. However, you may run the risk of having the disc stick to the flywheel. They are a slight bit smaller than the EA82's. I have ran EA81, EA82 and XT6 flywheels on EA81 engines and have not had any ill effects from any of them. I put 4+yrs on my old Hatchback and approx 10,000 miles offroad. I ran an EA81 with an EA82 flywheel and 5sp. My current brat is using the XT6 setup with the 5sp. The reason I am telling you what I used is to give you some reason to believe I may know what I am talking about.
When ever you remove the flywheel you MUST use thread lock on the bolts. This serves two purposes. One, to make sure the bolts don't work themselves out. Two, to seal the holes in the crank. They open up to the crankcase and oilpan. If they aren't sealed they will leak and you'll think the rear main seal is leaking.
If you choose to use the 5sp. All you need is the trans, mounts from the 4sp, crossmember from the 4sp 2 piece driveline from the donor car. You will need to weld in a couple of center bearing mounting tabs to hold the centerbearing. You will need to figure the wires out for your trans electrical as well. You must use the pressure plate that matches the flywheel and the throwout bearing that matches the trans and the 5sp disc. The splines are different between transmissions.
As far as the engine. Since this is your first, make sure to use some 1/2" masking tape and write numbers on the tape to help identify where the hoses go. Make sure you put the same number on the hose as you do on the port. Same for the electrical.
Posted 02 March 2004 - 02:55 PM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 07:59 PM
Posted 02 March 2004 - 08:32 PM
The weber's are all the same - you want a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke model of the DGV line). Same thing commonly used on a VW. You just need the proper adaptor to fit the Hitachi EA81 manifold. I wouldn't reccomend the Kit - get a used rebuilt carb, or rebuild one yourself, and buy the adaptor and the air filter seperate. You will save a bunch of money over the Kit - which comes with crappy instructions, the wrong air filter for a non-lifted car, and no linkage kit. There was a post last week by a place in Canada that said he could do a "custom" kit for like $325 shipped, with the carb you want (basically your choice of choke types), the adaptor, linkage kit, and the air filter size of your choice. Way better deal in my opinion if you really must have a new carb.
Posted 03 March 2004 - 12:21 AM
there are many ways to do what you want, and how much you can spend or save doing it.. it all depends on how you want your car to end up in the end.
so far each way that has been listed will work, but it will be different results for each setup (performance, installation, and price)
so now its my turn to tell you what I did-
I have a 1980 GL-1600 wagon, with a ea81. I used an ea81 4wd (large) flywheel, with a aftermarket clutch kit (listed in the schucks computer as a kit for an 88 turbo ea82 4wd wagon, basically an ea82 turbo clutch kit) disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing out of the same kit. (kit price for me was ~$250 with a lifetime warrenty)
I have a ea82 5spd D/R from an unknown year, with the "kit" that Jerry made, which makes the upper linkage inside the car fit like it was stock. (kit= $100)
the driveshaft is the driveshaft that was in my wagon to begin with, which I took to Jerry and he takes it to a shop in Yakima, where they lengthen it, and make it servicable (new grease type yolks) and painted black for $165 total!
as for engine removal, it is not that hard once your in there..
there are 4 bolts total, (2 studs, and 2 bolts) that hold the motor to the tranny.
2 nuts hold the engine mounts to the crossmember.
4 exhaust studs w/nuts
misc wires and hoses between the motor and car.
once those are disconnected, the motor should be removable by whatever meathod you can do.
my personal preference is to use a cherry picker, with a chain- and a jack under the tranny to make it easier...
but at the junkyard, my friends can remove a complete ea81 by hand (2 of us lifting by the asv pipes or heads) in 30 mins....
so read over the posts, look at your engine before ripping it out... and decide what what will work for you the best...
like- do you want nice parts, for a bit more money, or do you want to use used parts, and mokey with it till it works (the 2 piece driveshaft i wouldnt reccomend personally but it can work if done right) and save some money.
Qman is the guy to listen to in my opinion, he has been doing things like this for longer than most of us have been members (heck, probably before the board even came to be!)
good luck with your decisions and actions
Posted 03 March 2004 - 04:46 AM
As Austin has said - Qman is the one who has done the most of these in this thread. His method is the one I am sugesting also (correct me if I'm wrong here Ken). It's also the cheapest - using mostly used parts or parts already present on your car.
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