Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

1991 Subaru Liberty Loses Power Under Load


  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 28 December 2013 - 10:18 AM

G'Day All.

 

I have a 1991 Subaru liberty with an EJ22 engine. It has a manual transmission.

 

When under sustained load (accelerating up a hill) it loses power and RPM starts to decrease. If I try and accelerate through the power loss, the engine only loses more power. Changing down gears also does not help the problem.

 

When it starts to lose power, if I pull over, the engine vibrates and feels like it is running on 3 cylinders. No codes are displayed at any time.

 

If I let the engine idle for a few minutes, the engine recovers and performs as per normal. 

 

I have replaced the following items:

 

MAF (cleaned)

Fuel Pressure Regulator

CAT

Fuel Pump

Fuel Filter

Spark Plugs

Spark Leads

Oxygen Sensor

Knock Sensor

Coil Pack

 

I have also run it on 98 Octane Fuel. I have run an upper engine cleaner through it and a fuel cleaner through it.

 

It has had multiple oil changes.

 

Does any one have any suggestions to the problem. I have done a significant amount of study and no one seems to have a comprehensive answer.

 

Cheers.

 



#2 lneulicht

lneulicht

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 41 posts
  • Charlotte, NC

Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:18 PM

Sounds like the symptoms our 91 Postal Legacy had. Decided based on a radio show that the valves were sticking open when the engine heated from load, so it would gradually lose compression.  Fixed it by using an oil additive that cleaned the valves and a decarbonizing gas additive, but it sounds like you've already tried that? Did you try adding something like Seafoam gradually into the  intake manifold?



#3 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:38 PM

I have only tried an off the shelf product without much input from anyone else and I wasn't really sure which one to choose.

 

Can I please ask what the products were? The Oil Additive and the Gas Additive? 

 

I am down in Australia and will see if I can get my hands on some SeaFoam. 



#4 lneulicht

lneulicht

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 41 posts
  • Charlotte, NC

Posted 28 December 2013 - 10:09 PM

It's been years but I imagine the oil additive was something like Motor Medic Valve Medic. The gas treatment could have been anything that mentioned valves. I didn't use the Seafoam that time, but have used it since too decarbonize cylinders, after having seen it used on Youtube. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Maybe someone else will have better or more specific suggestions.



#5 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 28 December 2013 - 10:42 PM

Thanks for your help. If anyone else has any other suggesstions it would be much appreciated.

#6 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,246 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 29 December 2013 - 06:44 AM

The number 4 cylinder is often the culprit.

#7 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 29 December 2013 - 07:32 AM

Ok. Thanks.

How would you recommend correcting the problem?

Thanks for your help.

#8 travmo86

travmo86

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 22 posts
  • St. Charles MO

Posted 30 December 2013 - 05:03 PM

Check out this thread, 

 

http://www.ultimates...egacy-gremlins/

 

Experiencing similar problems with my 1993. Unfortunately I have not been able to do work on it much lately as it is located out of town. As far as things to check, yours does sound electronic but just to eliminate, I would do a compression test as well as pull the timing cover and check the belt. Make sure it hasnt jumped a tooth or two.



#9 travmo86

travmo86

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 22 posts
  • St. Charles MO

Posted 30 December 2013 - 05:09 PM

Also btw, BG 44k is an excellent fuel additive that I have seen personally do "miracles."  Look for it on Ebay. Usually about $20 a can



#10 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 30 December 2013 - 07:16 PM

Great. Thanks for that. Looks like, after reading the other threads, Marvel Mystery Oil, Chevron injector cleaner and the additive you suggested might be the go. I'll also put some Sea Foam through the intake and see how it goes. Timing belt looks fine and hasn't jumped.

#11 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 30 December 2013 - 08:36 PM

The number 4 cylinder is often the culprit.

Moosens, Have you had luck with correcting this issue at all?



#12 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,246 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 31 December 2013 - 08:13 AM

No , we ended up getting in an accident with that car and dumping it off. I recall a top notch master Subaru tech telling me about this issue. I know its awkward for many people but see if you can go by a dealer and get an older tech off to the side. They'll be able to explain it better. Something to do with the manuacturing where that last valve sits out and gets more cold and condensation .... causes it to stick.

 

Correction would require some labor for sure. Valve job or head replacement most likely.

 

We would get on the highway entrance ramp and have the SAME problem act up in almost the exact same place every time. I had thoughts that there was something external causing it like some sci-fi magnetic force ...LOL I swear it was happening every time and in the same spot.Once we'd get past the next mile or so it'd improve , but not without sometimes having to just pull over and let it correct itself at idle. VERY annoying.



#13 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 31 December 2013 - 10:15 AM

Thanks Moosens. I'm in Aus and have ordered Sea Foam and the additives described above from EBay.

Any further advice would be greatly appreciated including which additives to use.

Anyone else with ideas or solutions please let me know.

Cheers.

Ryan.

#14 moosens

moosens

    Psychotic Subathusiast

  • Members
  • 1,246 posts
  • Bridgeport CT

Posted 31 December 2013 - 10:25 AM

I don't think any additive will help , but maybe it'll loosen up that valve enough and leave a coating on it your oil doesn't , so it won't stick.

 

I'm not opposed to trying especially since trying the least expensive method works best on the budget.

 

We've heard various causes , some of which you've covered already. "Crack in the coil pack ' , "arching spark wires" , etc...all possible. But you've done your best to eliminate those I see.

 

You guys get New Years before us so have a GREAT one!

 

Cheers!



#15 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 31 December 2013 - 04:58 PM

Completely agree. I'll give the additives a go as I really don't want to remove the head.

Thanks for your help mate. Happy New Year!

#16 CNY_Dave

CNY_Dave

    03 LL Bean H6

  • Members
  • 1,420 posts
  • Near Cortland NY

Posted 31 December 2013 - 05:07 PM

Would a sticky valve show up on a vacuum gauge?



#17 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 31 December 2013 - 05:11 PM

Hmm not sure? Maybe only when the issue is replicated... Under load up a hill?

#18 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 31 December 2013 - 08:54 PM

One thing I have noticed is that the majority of the additives attempt to remove build ups from the intake valve but then get combusted in the chamber so they don't do much to the exhaust valve. Does anyone know how to gradually remove carbon build up from the exhaust valve without removing the head?

#19 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 19 January 2014 - 09:43 AM

Hi All. Just a quick update.

SeaFoam added through the intake and through the fuel system. Still experiencing the same problems. No change.

Anyone else got any ideas short of removing the head?

Cheers.

#20 lneulicht

lneulicht

    New User

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 41 posts
  • Charlotte, NC

Posted 19 January 2014 - 12:49 PM

Did you try an oil additive?



#21 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 19 January 2014 - 04:07 PM

I have tried one where you add it immediately prior to an oil change and just let it idle for ten minutes but I would like to try one that you leave in permanently. What would you recommend for this? MMO? SeaFoam? Or any other suggestions that will help?

#22 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 01 February 2014 - 01:03 AM

Has anyone had success with Marvel Mystery Oil?

#23 Olnick

Olnick

    Ol' Subaru Guy

  • Members
  • 2,568 posts
  • Honolulu HI

Posted 01 February 2014 - 02:27 AM

Marvel's MMO is great for loosening up sticky valves, stopping the "tick-of-death!"  But I wouldn't leave it in permanently.  Dump a bottle in your crankcase 50 or 100 miles before you plan to change the oil, then drive like normal.  I've seen it work.

 

Good luck.



#24 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 01 February 2014 - 02:49 AM

Great Thanks!

#25 libertyherb123

libertyherb123

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 16 posts
  • Adelaide, South Australia

Posted 01 February 2014 - 02:50 AM

Great Thanks!




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users