libertyherb123 Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 G'Day All. I have a 1991 Subaru liberty with an EJ22 engine. It has a manual transmission. When under sustained load (accelerating up a hill) it loses power and RPM starts to decrease. If I try and accelerate through the power loss, the engine only loses more power. Changing down gears also does not help the problem. When it starts to lose power, if I pull over, the engine vibrates and feels like it is running on 3 cylinders. No codes are displayed at any time. If I let the engine idle for a few minutes, the engine recovers and performs as per normal. I have replaced the following items: MAF (cleaned) Fuel Pressure Regulator CAT Fuel Pump Fuel Filter Spark Plugs Spark Leads Oxygen Sensor Knock Sensor Coil Pack I have also run it on 98 Octane Fuel. I have run an upper engine cleaner through it and a fuel cleaner through it. It has had multiple oil changes. Does any one have any suggestions to the problem. I have done a significant amount of study and no one seems to have a comprehensive answer. Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lneulicht Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Sounds like the symptoms our 91 Postal Legacy had. Decided based on a radio show that the valves were sticking open when the engine heated from load, so it would gradually lose compression. Fixed it by using an oil additive that cleaned the valves and a decarbonizing gas additive, but it sounds like you've already tried that? Did you try adding something like Seafoam gradually into the intake manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 I have only tried an off the shelf product without much input from anyone else and I wasn't really sure which one to choose. Can I please ask what the products were? The Oil Additive and the Gas Additive? I am down in Australia and will see if I can get my hands on some SeaFoam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lneulicht Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 It's been years but I imagine the oil additive was something like Motor Medic Valve Medic. The gas treatment could have been anything that mentioned valves. I didn't use the Seafoam that time, but have used it since too decarbonize cylinders, after having seen it used on Youtube. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Maybe someone else will have better or more specific suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Thanks for your help. If anyone else has any other suggesstions it would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 The number 4 cylinder is often the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 Ok. Thanks. How would you recommend correcting the problem? Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travmo86 Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Check out this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/18095-1993-legacy-gremlins/ Experiencing similar problems with my 1993. Unfortunately I have not been able to do work on it much lately as it is located out of town. As far as things to check, yours does sound electronic but just to eliminate, I would do a compression test as well as pull the timing cover and check the belt. Make sure it hasnt jumped a tooth or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travmo86 Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Also btw, BG 44k is an excellent fuel additive that I have seen personally do "miracles." Look for it on Ebay. Usually about $20 a can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Great. Thanks for that. Looks like, after reading the other threads, Marvel Mystery Oil, Chevron injector cleaner and the additive you suggested might be the go. I'll also put some Sea Foam through the intake and see how it goes. Timing belt looks fine and hasn't jumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 The number 4 cylinder is often the culprit. Moosens, Have you had luck with correcting this issue at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 No , we ended up getting in an accident with that car and dumping it off. I recall a top notch master Subaru tech telling me about this issue. I know its awkward for many people but see if you can go by a dealer and get an older tech off to the side. They'll be able to explain it better. Something to do with the manuacturing where that last valve sits out and gets more cold and condensation .... causes it to stick. Correction would require some labor for sure. Valve job or head replacement most likely. We would get on the highway entrance ramp and have the SAME problem act up in almost the exact same place every time. I had thoughts that there was something external causing it like some sci-fi magnetic force ...LOL I swear it was happening every time and in the same spot.Once we'd get past the next mile or so it'd improve , but not without sometimes having to just pull over and let it correct itself at idle. VERY annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Thanks Moosens. I'm in Aus and have ordered Sea Foam and the additives described above from EBay. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated including which additives to use. Anyone else with ideas or solutions please let me know. Cheers. Ryan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 I don't think any additive will help , but maybe it'll loosen up that valve enough and leave a coating on it your oil doesn't , so it won't stick. I'm not opposed to trying especially since trying the least expensive method works best on the budget. We've heard various causes , some of which you've covered already. "Crack in the coil pack ' , "arching spark wires" , etc...all possible. But you've done your best to eliminate those I see. You guys get New Years before us so have a GREAT one! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Completely agree. I'll give the additives a go as I really don't want to remove the head. Thanks for your help mate. Happy New Year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Would a sticky valve show up on a vacuum gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Hmm not sure? Maybe only when the issue is replicated... Under load up a hill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 One thing I have noticed is that the majority of the additives attempt to remove build ups from the intake valve but then get combusted in the chamber so they don't do much to the exhaust valve. Does anyone know how to gradually remove carbon build up from the exhaust valve without removing the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hi All. Just a quick update. SeaFoam added through the intake and through the fuel system. Still experiencing the same problems. No change. Anyone else got any ideas short of removing the head? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lneulicht Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Did you try an oil additive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 I have tried one where you add it immediately prior to an oil change and just let it idle for ten minutes but I would like to try one that you leave in permanently. What would you recommend for this? MMO? SeaFoam? Or any other suggestions that will help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Has anyone had success with Marvel Mystery Oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Marvel's MMO is great for loosening up sticky valves, stopping the "tick-of-death!" But I wouldn't leave it in permanently. Dump a bottle in your crankcase 50 or 100 miles before you plan to change the oil, then drive like normal. I've seen it work. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Great Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libertyherb123 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Great Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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