TheYeti Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 I will try to get some pictures up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I Suggest you to re-Check the Ignition Timin´ Degrees... Might be... Also, I suggest to remove the Vacuum that goes to the EGR, and cap it, then try to Drive the car for a while... it might fix the Problem. I Disabled the EGR in my Weberized EA82 with great results. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 Managed to get a jet kit from Redline for altitude. Might help out with the issues. I will try to get some pictures when we start working on it again this weekend! Here is to hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPGsuperchargedBrumby Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 If its backfiring out the carb i'd be looking at the igntion.....when i swaped to LPG i accidentaly reinstalled the disty one tooth advanced....and got deafening fireballs coming out the carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 I have Seen those Scarin´ Fireballs comin´ out from Carbs... Loud Explosion Sounding... :-\ ...They´re Horrible! Good Luck with the Kit! Pics Please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 I had some time to at least learn how to take the weber apart and document the size of the jets that are in there now. The carb comes from Redline with 140 fuel mains and the main air jets are 170/160. Unfortunately, Redline sent the wrong jet kit, or at least I think they did. The smallest main fuel jet in the kit was 150. At this point, I am a little discouraged. I just want my mustard wagon to live again, and really miss driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 Redline suggests taking the primary main air jet (170) and moving it to the secondary. Then I am supposed to take one of the main air jets from the kit (180) and insert that into the primary. This doesn't make sense to me IF the motor is running lean, but I really don't know at this point so I may as well give it a shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Redline suggests taking the primary main air jet (170) and moving it to the secondary. Then I am supposed to take one of the main air jets from the kit (180) and insert that into the primary. This doesn't make sense to me IF the motor is running lean, but I really don't know at this point so I may as well give it a shot sounds right to me, since your air is thinner, you'd want to have larger air correction sized to provide more volume.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 sounds right to me, since your air is thinner, you'd want to have larger air correction sized to provide more volume.... Everything I had read about up to this point suggests reducing the size of the main fuel jets rather than increasing the size of the air jet. Either way, I am learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Learning, is what this site is mainly about. It is a great reference for us Soob owners. I have been watching the action on this thread and have noticed that the suggestion about the real problem could be with the disty position and not the carb hasn't been addressed as to yea or nea. I made a comment about it myself earlier. I hope you have made sure that this isn't the real problem and are wasting your time working on the carb. Though learning about carbs is a good thing at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 The disty was addressed when Shawn did the timing adjustments, and the idle (once warmed) is quite smooth. The problems seem to come up under load. This is when bogging down occurs and the backfires occur with the most frequency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I see what you are saying but that is the electrical timing. The mechanical timing still could be off and since you say it happens at higher rpm's it makes me think that the disty is really the trouble. I may be wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 6, 2007 Author Share Posted September 6, 2007 I see what you are saying but that is the electrical timing. The mechanical timing still could be off and since you say it happens at higher rpm's it makes me think that the disty is really the trouble. I may be wrong though. Not so much at high rpms as under load (clutch engagement / getting the car moving). The larger air mains were installed last night(180/170) as suggested by Redline. Although it did help smooth out the idle a bit more, the motor still bogs down under load and backfires through the intake/carb. What you all are saying is starting to makes sense... I think I will take a stab here: If the advance is set to about 10-12 degrees now, the vac advance could then be advancing the timing too far and cause the backfire. Am I on the right track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 If I am correct, what I think is going on is the intake valve isn't quite closed, due to the advanced disty gear position, when the ignition is firing. Since the valve isn't closed the backfire goes back through the intake. Moving the disty back on tooth position and then retiming the ignition will prove if we (the others that think the same thing) are correct about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 20, 2007 Author Share Posted September 20, 2007 Round 6 will take place this Friday. We (Jerry D, Shawn W, and I) will tackle the distributor / mechanical vacuum advance. My fingers are firmly crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Round 6 will take place this Friday. We (Jerry D, Shawn W, and I) will tackle the distributor / mechanical vacuum advance. My fingers are firmly crossed. Ditto Mate! I have been pulling a few hairs out thinking of what to check next. We will get it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginger48 Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I've seen it many times....lean condition. Check your carb adapter, and gaskets and make sure all your vacuum ports that had hoses removed from are securly plugged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I've seen it many times....lean condition. Check your carb adapter, and gaskets and make sure all your vacuum ports that had hoses removed from are securly plugged. Good thinking! I am wondering if the carb adapter gasket is not making a good seal because of the carb water port for the hitachi? Of course it isn't leaking though.Makes me wonder. Shawn made the comment several times that it sounded as if it had a vac leak. I may bring another dizzy along with me tomorrow to check out the vac advace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginger48 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Good thinking! I am wondering if the carb adapter gasket is not making a good seal because of the carb water port for the hitachi? Of course it isn't leaking though.Makes me wonder.Shawn made the comment several times that it sounded as if it had a vac leak. I may bring another dizzy along with me tomorrow to check out the vac advace. I don't think you'll find anything wrong with the distributor. American high performance cars in the late 1950's through the early 1960's never had vacuum advance from the factory. They only had centrifugal advance. However if the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad, that would create a vacuum leak but I think you are looking for a larger leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 ......the suggestion about the real problem could be with the disty position and not the carb hasn't been addressed as to yea or nea. ... is What I`ve Said on Page 3: I Suggest you to re-Check the Ignition Timin´ Degrees... Might be...... Well... I Think that might be the Cause too... but more issues Might be involved, such like Vacuum Leaks, Wrong PCV + EGR functions, etc... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Well we made some head way. The cat was getting kinda plugged so we switched that out which made for much better vacuum. Also there is no vac leaks at all on the car. We checked everything. Also the distributor was a bit off which Mr. Yeti will fill us in on a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheYeti Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Still the same problem of backfire through the carb under load. Frustrated. Beaten down. Tired. We must press on... What we did tonight: -checked everything for vac leaks (yes, everything) using carb cleaner and found none. I even took the carb off and resealed all gaskets, etc. -vacuum tested out at 12 pounds with the meter. We changed out the cat and managed to get 14.5 on the second read. -Jets are set to 140 / 140 fuel mains and 170 / 160 air mains. -Checked the mechanical advance on the distrib and it is working perfectly. Currently, the engine is set to about 12 degrees when the mechanical advance is hooked up. No idea where to go from here. Everything I read suggests that a backfire through the carb is a lean condition, but is it possible that it is actually running too rich? Bogging down under load, pop, pop, and starts to stall out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginger48 Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 If it too rich, you'll be getting black smoke out of the tailpipe. Rev the engine up to 2500 to 3000 RPM and then slightly close the choke by hand. If the engine increases RPM, it's too lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Glad to hear you made some progress at least. I still feel the problem you are having is due to either the valve timing is off or the disty position is off by a tooth. Did this problem start happening after either of those areas were worked on? We may be able to prove if this really is the problem by checking each cylinder while it is in the firing position. Then force air into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole, like you would on a leak down test. If you get air back up the intake you will know what to do. Edit: Looking at your last vacuum test reading of 14.5 pounds seems to confirm that there is something wrong with the valve timing or a leaky valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry DeMoss Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 Edit:Looking at your last vacuum test reading of 14.5 pounds seems to confirm that there is something wrong with the valve timing or a leaky valve. Don't think the valve timing is off since that was never touched. It is a low mile ea81 so I think that part is perfectly fine since it ran good with the stock hitachi. It just makes me a little sad to see Jay put so much work into his car and not having going. I will have to look into the carb workings a little more cause it still seems that there is something funny about this particular weber. I have seen many people throw on a weber and with minimal effort have it screaming in no time. We did find some little metal particals in the float bowl when we removed the top portion of the carb to change out the main jets and air corrector jets back to the stock settings. I think that some of the casting/flashing may have found a way to come loose a little bit after putting some fuel through it. I will have to check all of the little ports on the carb to confirm this. Any other ideas? I want this thing to go as much as Jay and Shawn do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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