All Activity

I’m not sure that captive nuts are hex shaped, usually round tube that has a thread tapped in it. You can drill a hole in the side of the chassis rail above the bolt, only a small hole to put a penetrant can’s spray tube through to bomb the area. This will allow gravity to help it work its way down the thread. If you have time to leave this for several days then hit again another two to three times it’ll put you in the best position to get these bolts out fuss free, or with as little fuss as possible. Once they’re out and the job is done, seal the hole with some silicone. Could be worth painting the general area to avoid creating a new rust spot before the silicone closes the hole. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Depending on what model you have will depend on the difficulty of removing the sender unit to inspect and clean. It could be a broken wire if you have rodents too. Carry a small jerry can with you and learn how far you can drive before you run out of fuel could be a good back up in the interim. Cheers Bennie

With the windscreen trim, clean behind that trim piece and check for rust. Deal with anything you find to properly treat and seal it. Then fill all voids with silicone, push the trim into the silicone and clean any silicone that oozes out. Leaving a void will allow moisture to accumulate and sit on the metal, leading to rust and by the time you can see it beyond the trim piece you’ll have to cut out the rust to replace it = windscreen out and a LOT of work! The rust in the rear fender will be from a leak under the rear window trim piece where the other bit of rust is too. Look closely on the tailgate as you most likely have a small rust patch in one lower corner of the rear window. This is another common place where they rust. Auto doesn’t sound like much fun to me but I realise that manuals aren’t everyone’s cup of tea either. I hope you get the old girl sorted for the ski season, mine did the two seasons my wife and I did together many years ago now - lifted and EJ’d, the best, it actually climbed hills! I ran stock wheels with winter tread for the snow months, and took my 27s for off-season 4wd’n in the high country. Cheers Bennie

Over pressurisation of the fuel tank could be a blocked carbon canister up front if not using one from the wagon. Surging could be a little diaphragm device missing from the fuel system between the fuel pump and the engine. But if fuel pressures are solid and they don’t move this one doesn’t make much sense to me. To check the tank you can drain it via the bolt in the bottom of it, then remove the fuel sender unit at the rear of the tank to inspect the internals - use your phone camera to look through the hole and snap some pics with the flash. You’ll get a good idea of what’s going on in there with those pics, and you’ll have a reference point to start with if you need to do anything about it. I didn’t know about the fuel tank port differences. That T piece could be the issue that’s upsetting something. I wonder if you’re getting air in the fuel system that’s then making its way to the injectors at load, but at idle and low load revs the air manages to pass by without issue. I am clasping at straws here and thinking outside the box and hopefully helping out in the process. Cheers Bennie

Drill up through the floor to locate the center. Hole saw down from inside to hold the nut with a socket. Long breaker bar, turn it by hand. PB Blaster or something like it to lube the threads.

Try running on premium. My gauge didn't work but running a few tanks of premium through it made the gauge work again. My guess is the sending unit was sticking and the premium dissolved the residue in the float mechanism. Regular might work too but someone smarter than me would know for sure. Or you could pull the sending unit and clean it/ replace it.

gas gauge need fix

Not sure, haven't had one break on me. Quick search on the internet seems like idosubaru has been through it before. He's on this forum too... https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/repairing-captive-nut-failure-lots-of-complications.151202/

gas gauge no work

So, I ended up picking up the turbo GL-10. Hoping to get it running for the ski season. Needs a new windshield rubber gasket, or a stretch and refit if possible. Slight rust on the driver side rear window and rear fender but other than that super clean. Automatic push button 4wd. Came with another ea82 engine that's supposedly a turbo but looking at it, doesn't seem the same on the left side where the turbo piping connects (EGR?). Made an offer on the XT6, waiting to hear back from the seller. I'd love to drop an EG33 in it assuming it's a lot more simple than the newer H6 options. Hard to find EG33's

They are the original bushings. The car has been in Colorado it's entire life so it's not super rusty, but that's a good thing to note. How do you fix it if the nut does break?

Swap in the used pair, it's less hassle. But also measure the length of the front bushing on your car and confirm first. The swaybar mounting tab may be different too, make a note of it. Figure out if you want to get those Delphi bushings and build a spare set later. Also pray to the rust gods that the big bolts don't break the captive nuts in the frame when you try and remove them. If it's the original bushing on the car, chances are the nut inside is corroded, I'd recommend completely relieving pressure on the arm by removing the knuckle before breaking loose bushing bolts.

Hello Everyone, I have a 2002 Impreza TS with some leaky front lower rear control arm bushings (the oil/grease filled ones). They've been leaking for a while and are starting to get some play in them so it's time to replace them. The stealership said they are $190 each. The auto parts stores don't carry them, unless it is Napa. Napa wants $120 each. I also have a used pair of complete control arms with bushings for $60 per side. Mileage is unknown. Reportedly in good condition. They are at a dedicated Subaru recycler. Rock auto sells the delphi ones for about $35. Are the Delphi ones worth buying? Would it be between to just get new control arms with new bushings? Thanks for any input!

This website says what I assume is 82,408 wagons sold in the US in '87. It says a total of 177,138 total Subarus sold in the US in '87. https://www.cars101.com/subaru_archives.html You seriously have to write what amounts to a report on your car to get it licensed as a historic vehicle?! And I assume this is basically for an emissions free existence from this point forward? How ridiculous, but it's CA, I guess. I'm sure if someone can justify this for a Ford Pinto, one of the earlier compact 4X4 utility wagons can be justified as a classic. Wasn't Subaru one of the earliest and best at 4X4 CARS back then? That would be a start, IMHO.

Very solid points, Bennie. Did not bring over the fuel tank from the wagon. I do suspect fuel to be at least part of the problem. My first effort was to install a pressure gauge. Also, the surging seems quite rhythmic when it occurs. I brought over the steering column from the wagon, including the ignition switch. I’m using the GL starting circuit on the Brat, as I had on the wagon. The trouble code of ‘starter circuit high’ is the same as it was in wagon. Also brought small fuse block that I’d used on the wagon, protection for the power to ECU. Using the same external fuel pump, and the relays from the donor 2.2. One surprise was that the fuel pump relay worked for a short time in the Brat and then quit. I replaced the relay and it’s been okay. The body harnesses are original to each body, only the engine/ecu harness came with the engine from the wagon to the Brat. The pump is mounted close to the tank, to which I’d added a filter when in the wagon, which didn’t get changed when brought over, had about 5,000 miles on it then. Maybe I should take a harder look at the idea of crud in tank. I’ve also brought the original fuel filter along with the engine, so the set-up has two. The pressure gauge is downstream of both, and does seem solid. The tank pressure and fumes are greater in the Brat than wagon, and I can’t figure why.I’ve tried running without gas cap, and with lines to the fuel separator box disconnected but that doesn’t affect the engine cut-out. Full disclosure, I let the wagon body go before finishing the install to the Brat, a mistake because when plumbing the fuel lines I think there is an additional port on the Brat fuel tank. I just added another tee in the original way I had plumbed the wagon, on the return side. Anybody familiar with the differences in tank ports between ‘83 gl wagon and ‘85 Brat? Best way to check the fuel tank? At the filters? More effort into the pressure gauge? Thanks

Wow. Used to be Mr. Statistics - my buddy Andrew, would soon reply with all the production numbers. And more. I just can’t think right now of where those figures are online. But they’re out there. Hang in there and I’d bet you have some good info that’s printable and presentable. Here in CT it’s classic at 20, emissions exempt at 25. No inspection for body, safety, etc. unless it’s from a salvage title. Doesn’t help you much but CA DMV should take a look around and see other States criteria/policies. Going through a parallel situation in AZ right now. Have a 2003 wagon from the east coast with over 250k on it to my son and they’re calling it a $5800 car etc, needs some letter from our state, etc,, just a load of crap all around. Sorry to rant. Might not hold much weight but I’d be happy to write a letter for you using my real name and related to the board and my existence here since it’s inception and the fact that I’ve owned and dealt with vintage Subarus for decades etc etc. Send me a message if you think that would help. I’ve got to rest now but good luck.

I'm am trying to get CA historic Vehicle license plates for my 1987 Subaru wagon 4x4 turbo GL. I've owned it since it was new. The CA Dept of motor vehicles told me a need a statement (even from a car club) stating the historic of my car. Can anyone help with this. How many built, etc. any way to prove historic nature. I'm look for facts, figure,etc, and even a club that could make a statement of fact. Brian

Thanks for the link. I'm not sure if those will work on mine, those look to use a screw to attach. Mine use those c-clips to hold it to the regulator itself.

I did find this eBay link to some window cranks. I've bought from this seller in Thailand before, great packaging. Prices are on the higher side but they've got some parts and pieces that are difficult to find. :]

Ahh, I got ya now. I didn't see your location.

We got the L series in Oz from late ‘84 through to ‘94. Other names used state side I believe are Leone, DL, GL etc. the wagon isn’t known as a Leone, only the sedan. The GL is the up-spec model so no window winders there due to power windows. The Legacy’s and Imprezas that don’t have power windows will also work I believe. Cheers Bennie

Which L-series are you referring to? Legacy L/Brighton?

I think it's where it's got the dealer add-on AC system. I have another wiring harness that came with this from a non-AC model and it doesn't have that fuse.

Window cranks/winders: can use L series units when you find good ones. There were some models that came with some sweet metal winders that never perish in the heat. There will be some (I think) ABS printed window winders on the market sometime soon. They’re in the testing phase now and really look the part! Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models... and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.