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I’d check the fuel pump relay. Maybe the contacts in that are dirty and don’t always make a good contact, making it look like the fuel pump is the issue. The fuel pump relay will be located on a bracket beside the main ignition/power relay. The ignition relay is a brown six pin relay. I don’t know exactly where it’s located in your model though. I hope it’s a simple fix like this. Cheers Bennie

An injector pump? As in an EFI high pressure fuel pump? I know it’s not a diesel so it can’t be the governor pump… If after an EFI fuel pump, use any generic external pump. Can’t recall hose size etc sorry. Cheers Bennie

The 87 GL has fallen on hard times again. All is well except we can't find an injector pump or a rebuilder for the existing pump. Any help out there?

^No - not something I've done. Just read about.

Yeah..try this too: http://opposedforces.com/ It's working, but shows the domain expired 5/2025?

Any chance you got the 3.6 vs. the 2.5 version? Unless you have the 3.6. I'd guess the 3.6 are a different p/n for the extra weight? Maybe not.

Any idea if it can be metered to see if it's bad in some capacity? I'll look into it further and see what I can figure out.

I've read about the ignition wearing out on other cars and causing similar symptoms, so likely Subars can too.

Sorry for a long post. My car is a 1995 Legacy with 135,000 miles-really. It was parked for several years after the owner died. I’ve had it for about three years and replaced most sensors over that period due to codes. Mostly runs like a scalded dog except...When I bought it the owner said the fuel pump was less than a year old. I’d had it for about 9 months and one day the car wouldn’t start, no fuel delivered to engine. Replaced fuel pump and put in a new filter and tank screen. In April I took it on a trip and it ran great except once after a fill up the car would start but only idled very slowly/ 200rpm or so, then die. Fuel starvation? After about a dozen tries it fired up and ran perfectly for the 500 miles back to my home over 4 days with lots of starts and stops and fill-ups. A week after getting home it would crank but not start at all. Fuel pump again, right? I replaced the pump with a mid-range pump from Rock Auto. After installation we went for a short test drive (15 minutes, less than 10 miles, ran great). After a 10 minute stop it acted like it had before: very slow idle and died within seconds. Wouldn’t run, got towed. On an older car I’d say it was vapor lock. Checked fuel filter for flow. Tried removing the gas cap. Let it sit for a few days. Didn’t help. I replaced it with a Hitachi pump a few days ago. It starts and runs great. I let it idle for an hour, shutting it off every 15 minutes and restarting. No problems, no codes. Here’s the thing, the last failed pump that only lasted 10 miles runs when bench tested. What if the slow idle problem that went away once (but not the second time) is some other problem that acts like a bad fuel pump? What else could it be? Now I’m hesitant to drive the car. Any ideas?

So about a year a go, I replaced the main ground contact on the block under the air box. It was green, no copper insight. I cut it back to fresh copper, put a new end on it, and called it good. At the same time, I replaced the battery with a new AGM. I had no further issues until today. The radio started flickering again. I also noticed that my key no longer stays in the ignition when the car is running. It's old and this isn't my only car with this "issue". My question is, could this be an issue in the ignition switch since the dash/radio/clock all flicker periodically? I guess I'll continue chasing grounds down...Any other suggestions?

Shoot man, that would be a trip.

I love the ea81 wagons. Back in 2007 or so my two friends took a low mileage 83 wagon from southern British Columbia down to Nicaragua. Someone smashed one of the side windows so my buddy sold it down there. I couldn't go at the time cuz I was in college. They beat the hell outta that car driving through Mexico. Took it down the baja on their route.

I should mention, I'm thinking about making the XT6 rwd and using the donor axles for a ej22 swap. The XT6 interior is actually in really good shape and no sign of mouse occupancy.

Minimal rust on the lower right hatch corner. I've got a brand new set of 13" winters that I've been storing, and a brand new set of front rotors that I bought for my bush beater 89' GL wagon, which I'm assuming will fit the turbo wagon no problem. That GL wagon has a D/R 5spd and I have another D/R 5spd that I pulled out of my GL sedan 15 years ago. So I have the pedal assembly to make the swap happen, but it isn't priority. Just want to get this turbo wagon running and "reliable" The XT6 seller is firm at 1k (cdn). Car comes with extra set of rims, headlight covers, doors, perfect condition front fenders (grey), extra front and rear bumpers, front and rear seats in good condition stuffed into the car right now, intact dash bezel, cybrid steering fluid. All the glass is good except a fairly minor crack in the front windshield which I assume I won't be able to source another unless I find a parts car down across the border in Washington. Rust holes by both rear wheelwells, I noticed a rust hole in the bottom of the trunk. Will need a radiator and likely headgasket job. He's done a spring replacement for the air suspension but says I should source a proper set of spring suspension so I'm not sure if that's available, or if I can slot a set that's for a different ea82 model. The owner has owned several XT cars and would be keeping this one if he could source a windshield. My end goal for this XT6 would be an EZ30 lowered cannonball style build/drift potential. I have the Knox Mountain Hill Climb near me which is the oldest running paved hill climb in North America. If I were to fully cage an ea82 for the purpose I'd probably use a GL coupe or Chaser(hatch). RX cars are almost impossible to find up here. XT6 too front weight biased to bother with a proper hill climber build. I do have 3 1960's BMW 700 cars. Two sedans one coupe. Blue sedan is my avatar photo. They're rear engine twin boxer. My plan is to do retromods on the two sedans and use all the good panels and OEM bike engine on the coupe cuz that's where the retained value is. Thinking about using one of those as a hill climb full tubular chassis with an ej22t with the proper NA 2.5 heads which I think come's to 2230 CC which with forced induction x 1.7 keeps me just under the GTO 4.0 litre class. Mate an ej22t with a subaru manual with flipped ring and built axles to handle the reverse rotation is probably my best option. Not interested in running a chopped VW pan/transmission which is what that Ludwig guy on youtube did for his 700 coupe. Anyway, someone talk me either out of this or into it haha. I'll probably just get it even though I shouldn't. Hard to pass up an XT6 in Canada.

I’m not sure that captive nuts are hex shaped, usually round tube that has a thread tapped in it. You can drill a hole in the side of the chassis rail above the bolt, only a small hole to put a penetrant can’s spray tube through to bomb the area. This will allow gravity to help it work its way down the thread. If you have time to leave this for several days then hit again another two to three times it’ll put you in the best position to get these bolts out fuss free, or with as little fuss as possible. Once they’re out and the job is done, seal the hole with some silicone. Could be worth painting the general area to avoid creating a new rust spot before the silicone closes the hole. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Depending on what model you have will depend on the difficulty of removing the sender unit to inspect and clean. It could be a broken wire if you have rodents too. Carry a small jerry can with you and learn how far you can drive before you run out of fuel could be a good back up in the interim. Cheers Bennie

With the windscreen trim, clean behind that trim piece and check for rust. Deal with anything you find to properly treat and seal it. Then fill all voids with silicone, push the trim into the silicone and clean any silicone that oozes out. Leaving a void will allow moisture to accumulate and sit on the metal, leading to rust and by the time you can see it beyond the trim piece you’ll have to cut out the rust to replace it = windscreen out and a LOT of work! The rust in the rear fender will be from a leak under the rear window trim piece where the other bit of rust is too. Look closely on the tailgate as you most likely have a small rust patch in one lower corner of the rear window. This is another common place where they rust. Auto doesn’t sound like much fun to me but I realise that manuals aren’t everyone’s cup of tea either. I hope you get the old girl sorted for the ski season, mine did the two seasons my wife and I did together many years ago now - lifted and EJ’d, the best, it actually climbed hills! I ran stock wheels with winter tread for the snow months, and took my 27s for off-season 4wd’n in the high country. Cheers Bennie

Over pressurisation of the fuel tank could be a blocked carbon canister up front if not using one from the wagon. Surging could be a little diaphragm device missing from the fuel system between the fuel pump and the engine. But if fuel pressures are solid and they don’t move this one doesn’t make much sense to me. To check the tank you can drain it via the bolt in the bottom of it, then remove the fuel sender unit at the rear of the tank to inspect the internals - use your phone camera to look through the hole and snap some pics with the flash. You’ll get a good idea of what’s going on in there with those pics, and you’ll have a reference point to start with if you need to do anything about it. I didn’t know about the fuel tank port differences. That T piece could be the issue that’s upsetting something. I wonder if you’re getting air in the fuel system that’s then making its way to the injectors at load, but at idle and low load revs the air manages to pass by without issue. I am clasping at straws here and thinking outside the box and hopefully helping out in the process. Cheers Bennie

Drill up through the floor to locate the center. Hole saw down from inside to hold the nut with a socket. Long breaker bar, turn it by hand. PB Blaster or something like it to lube the threads.

Try running on premium. My gauge didn't work but running a few tanks of premium through it made the gauge work again. My guess is the sending unit was sticking and the premium dissolved the residue in the float mechanism. Regular might work too but someone smarter than me would know for sure. Or you could pull the sending unit and clean it/ replace it.

gas gauge need fix

Not sure, haven't had one break on me. Quick search on the internet seems like idosubaru has been through it before. He's on this forum too... https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/repairing-captive-nut-failure-lots-of-complications.151202/

gas gauge no work

So, I ended up picking up the turbo GL-10. Hoping to get it running for the ski season. Needs a new windshield rubber gasket, or a stretch and refit if possible. Slight rust on the driver side rear window and rear fender but other than that super clean. Automatic push button 4wd. Came with another ea82 engine that's supposedly a turbo but looking at it, doesn't seem the same on the left side where the turbo piping connects (EGR?). Made an offer on the XT6, waiting to hear back from the seller. I'd love to drop an EG33 in it assuming it's a lot more simple than the newer H6 options. Hard to find EG33's

They are the original bushings. The car has been in Colorado it's entire life so it's not super rusty, but that's a good thing to note. How do you fix it if the nut does break?