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You can use a cereal box to make those gaskets. Done it many times with no problems.

HNL - COS or Fort Collins, CO. Depends on the day. Happy to help.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!

Good luck with it. I hope you keep that momentum rolling forward. Most inspirational.

Other side repeated today. Also took the opportunity to fit up the impreza wheel wells and strut towers I've saved. I cut the middle sections of the angle iron frame I tacked on when removing them, then using some more angle as a bridge I clamped them back together. I ended up somehow sacrificing a tape measure doing this, but I'm getting some momentum back in this project so if a cheap tape measure is the cost to get this back on the ground sooner over later I'm glad to pay it. I'll need to do a little more surgery to get them to fit truly properly, especially since the filler neck is on the opposite side of the vehicle, but I suppose if I'm doing this much fabrication that will be somewhat trivial. I'll also likely be cutting a lot of them out to fix some rust in them anyway, but it's a good start. Going to set this aside for a little while and return to the subframe setup. Any permanent install of these towers here is severely premature. Once I have a base I can measure from to get the strut towers to a proper height and location, I can start poking at this in more detail.

Sent out today!

No go on the gaskets. They weren't in my gasket collection. Is there no results when you search the P/N?

Thank you all for checking your stashes and everything, I’ve got one coming to me.

I appreciate it. the 2" lift is more than I'm willing to go. So stock rear coils I'll stay. I for fronts at all of those subaru vehicles rockauto doesn't even list the fronts anymore. I may have to fab up actually separate shock mounts, which will be interesting.

You could get some gasket material and trace the spacer to cut out your own gaskets. You could also use the tube. I'm not familiar with the 2nd gens as much so I'm not sure if they're a paper gasket or a metal graphite composite. I might actually have some gaskets at home, I'll have to check. I have an EA81 sitting around for something someday and it came with a full gasket set. I'd be converting it to TBI anyways so I don't need the carb gaskets. I'll message back here later today or tomorrow and let you know. :]

1+ on KYB. If you have time and search the yards, I've found almost new KYB struts for <$50 each. Complete, just unbolt and bolt the replacements on. Has to be your lucky day in the yards.

I have a few. Address to Lmdew2@gmail.com Larry

Ignition timing advance from the weights expanding etc inside the distributor. But yes there’s also the difference of the vacuum ports. What I’m getting at is folks had appreciated that ignition curve advance from the different distributor. Wish I had that crisp memory of which and why but maybe the archives might hold some info. But just reverting to stock it won’t mean much. There might be wiring diagrams online. Or they’re definitely in the back of all factory service manuals. I sold off my 80s but they’re cheap enough usually.

You might find front Shock Absorbers on www.Rockauto.com and also, besides the ones for the Loyale, you can use the ones for the 4 Cyl. Subaru XT as I did. Better load capabilities are gained by using stronger coil springs, and thus means lifting, even a little, due to the increased resistance of the coil springs to get compressed by the vehicle's load. Tempo coil springs in front + honda coil springs in rear is my best bet and has been working awesome on my "BumbleBeast" since decades ago. Kind Regards.

Gasket-in-a-tube might be fine...

Might. Won't be able to check until I get to my storage unit next week. Will advise. O.

According to the shop manual all the 4wd soobs had the Hitachi in 83. I did notice the curve in the Nippondenso vacuum advance arm. It is straight on the Hitachi. I don't know what difference that would make but when mine starts dogging out and loses all spark at 2500 or so RPM, it does sound like the vacuum advance is not working properly. That was the first thing I checked but it seemed to be ok. I am hoping once I figure out this wiring the Hitachi will solve the problem.

I apologize is I missed it. What is the solution for 1/2 inch or less lift for the rear. I want better load capacity but I don't want lift. I'm doing tempo coils in front, unfortunately I can't find new front struts,

I need help finding the two gaskets that fit on the throttle body insulator/spacer. Its for an 1983 EA81 HITACHI dcp306-21. The rebut kits come with the spacers but not the gaskets. Any help would be appreciated.

Maybe swapped for the advance curve. That was a bit of a thing to do for some. I’m not positive that applies to yours but i seem to recall the automatics had a better advance curve and maybe FWD different from 4wd ? I would have to check a parts manual. But that was my only thought on why they swapped it out. My 79 4wd wagon was swapped out with a FWD complete engine and exhaust. So i had to decipher that at one point due to ignition parts. Same deal it’s Hitachi or ND. Good luck with it.

Thank you sir, no hurry. The wiring was cut and spliced when the original Hitachi was replaced with the Nippendenso. Thanks again, Bill

I usually go by the shape of the wiring as this is something that’s never changed in my brumby. Someone on here will know for sure. I can check it out thoroughly in a few days and report back if it’s not urgent.

Hello everyone, I'm looking for some help. I own a 1983 Subaru Brat non turbo automatic. Apparently the po installed a Nippondenso distributor at some point. According to a mechanic friend and also the shop manual it Brat's should have a Hitachi. I am having issues with it losing all spark above 2200-2500 RPM's so my mechanic friend recommended changing the coil and distributor back to factory specs. I found and purchased a rebuilt Hitachi. The question I have is that the pickup coil does not have any markings which connector is positive and which is negative. I am attaching a picture of what I am looking at. Does anyone know which is positive and which is negative? I couldn't find any info on this in the shop manual and the mechanic doesn't know either. Thanks for any help. Much appreciated. Bill

That would be correct! Idler and tensioner are two separate pieces.

https://www.jalopnik.com/2017303/subaru-brataroo-travis-pastrana-gymkhana-car-sema-reveal/