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Oh yea, according to Uhaul, I only use their equipment to move 90s Corollas and Civics

The Diagnostic Flow chart for that (Subaru lists under P0638 to refer to P2101, so you might find more information that way) has 29 steps to it, and only the last 2 suggest replacing the throttle body. In short, it means that the ECU is asking for a target throttle angle, and the TPS reading it's getting back does not match. There are FSMs online in various places, I suggest looking it up and running through that chart for your car (FYI, the "U5" section is California Emissions) You are correct that the "sensor" is not a separate replaceable part, as it is integrated into the actuator and motor. It's actually 2 redundant sensors.

Long time reader, first time poster. I have a 2000 Legacy GT Sedan, EJ25 and it appears to have 2 PCV Valves that are fighting against each other to relieve the crankcase pressure. I have a PCV valve facing up from the block, and a PCV valve in the intake facing out with one hose going between them. Every other EJ25 I've seen has one of the other, but not 2. Does this sound right? I bought the car overheating, did the head re-surface head gaskets, lapped the valves, new timing belt, water pump etc. The 2 PCV valves back to back is throwing me off. I have a 2001 outback with the EJ25, 2000 outback with the EJ25, and a 2001 forester with the EJ25, and they all have one PCV valve in the intake. Any help would be appreciated.

Have you flushed out the old gas or is this several year old gas? Also, have the fuel filters (all of them) been replaced? Is there sediment in the fuel tank? If you're not throwing codes and you were experiencing fuel issues, that's where I'd look first. The only bit that confuses me is the test connector/coolant sensor scenario. Have you tested the coolant sensor for the proper values? Hang in there :]

Thanks, Bennie, I had no check engine light. The main 6 pin relay was clicking but not tripping. After tapping it the fuel pump relay and pump came on and the engine started, Yeh. I will replace the relay to help with future reliability.

I got the part in today and just installed it, should fix the code but still hasn’t fixed the no running issue

Have you interrogated the fuel pump relay to ensure it’s working properly? How are all the electronics stored in the beach buggy? If the relay is left to atmosphere conditions it could be dirty contacts - in the fuel pump relay and/or the main six pin relay. If the ECU is getting power but the fuel pump is not activating, how are your earth points looking? You’ll find your wiring harness diagrams somewhere. Alternatively this is where you now spend the time probing every single wire and recording what it does and where it’s located in the ecu pinout. Not fun but could help with future trouble shooting. Have you checked for codes with the check engine light? Cheers Bennie

Good point. But which other inputs are required? Harness was modified so that clutch switch , trans switch are bypassed. My main issue is none of the wiring diagrams are correct for my engine. I have just found a manual for an AUS spec 2.2 1994, and the plugs are the same , but the wires are completely different.

By "earthed solenoid" I assume you mean "grounded the coil of the fuel pump relay". So far, so good. From where you are, I wouldn't jump directly to "bad ECU". Let's go back to first principles, and stop me if I get anything wrong. The initial failure symptom was no fuel, but you know the relay and pump are good, so you changed the ECU, but that didn't solve the problem. You're reading that as "two bad ECUs", where I read it as "ECU not the problem, because you just swapped in a known-good (according to the supplier) one". The whole point of the ECU is that it listens to a whole bunch of inputs and drives a whole bunch of outputs. So I'd be looking at all of the inputs to see which ones need to be satisfied in order for the ECU to want to pump fuel.

Your brats came with hill holders?? We missed out on this. My 1990 brumby does not have one but my 1988 L series does (as did my sister’s old 1984 L series sedan). They do need adjustment. Small amounts, test - adjust - repeat until you get the release point you’re happy with. Cheers Bennie

Yeah, right up to that point. At least it’s not life threatening and you know know to expect it now. Cheers Bennie

Yup, right up until you go to change a ball joint, and the bottom of the steering knuckle swings out a bit, and instead of the rollers in the inner CV hitting that internal stop, the boot pulls off and the rollers fall on the floor.

I have an EJ22 94 in a beach buggy. Engine coughed a few times. Once stopped it would not start. Fuel pump does not activate. OB1 electronics. Earthed solenoid and the fuel pump worked, still no start. ECUs are getting very rare so bought a re-conditioned one at great cost. Installed and no change. Checked power and earths to the ECU , all OK. Connected green plugs , and pump does not turn on. The supplier claims the ECU was tested and OK, but this sounds to me like an ECU failure. Can anyone help with any more ideas?

Shoot, sorry the link didn't work. Just look up the forum post, it's been recently discussed so you shouldn't have an issue finding it.

As subaru1988 says, they need adjusting... but they're often corroded to where the ball that senses you're on a hill can't roll freely, and thus don't work. I haven't tried rebuilding one.

Here is an update to my situation. I get a 0638 code and the car coasts to a stop and the engine is still running in limp mode. The car can go about 2 mph. I shut off the engine for a minute and when I restart it runs normally again. This only happens on longer trips after maybe 30 miles and the car has been working hard. Apparently a dirty throttle body can be a culprit. I looked in mine and it's rather clean. Also the electric accelerator can be a cause. I replaced it and the problem did not go away. The next suspect is apparently the throttle position sensor. Is it true that I need to replace the entire Throttle body as the throttle position sensor is built into the throttle body?

I recently put mine back in service, and I found that the clutch cable needed to be adjusted first.

The EGR code is for the EGR solenoid, not the EGR valve. The ECU can only read electrical faults, it will not know if anything mechanical is going wrong (the EGR valve is purely mechanical, as such the ECU won't tell you if it's dirty, sticking, etc) The solenoid controls when the valve gets vacuum. I've had this issue, it's an easy fix. Check out ('92 Loyale - Difficult to start, rough idle, and stalling/no power while in gear.), scroll to the bottom and it'll tell you how to install a new EGR solenoid. The solenoid will cost ya 50 ish bucks but you shouldn't have to replace it again. :]

the only thing it threw out was the EGR valve and that's why i replaced it, can't get it started long enough without fear of harming it to check if that fixed that code.

Does your ECU throw any codes?

to start this car has 287k miles and about three years ago (a year after i bought it) it left me stranded in a parking lot. For about three months I had been dealing with fuel pump issues where i would have to "wake" it up by hitting it with a wrench to get it to run (also this is the only issue this car has given me up to this point), and in that parking lot it completely went out on me and wouldn't start no matter what i did. surprisingly after a few days of it sitting there i went back the day i was gonna get it towed to my house and it started! that was the last day that it fully ran and drove. i replaced the fuel pump, nothing. fuel pump relay, nothing. I only recently found out and confirmed that it was the wiring harness that goes from the relay back to the fuel pump. I was able to bypass the 12v power by wiring in my own spade connectors and wires and connecting the power to the fuel pump and that got it running with the turn of the key like it's supposed to. A new issue rose up with this though, now it doesn't want to idle at all, starts up tries to idle and stalls within seconds. I have cleaned the IAC with the proper cleaning products, i cleaned the air intake, bought a refurbished EGR valve, bought a junkyard coolant temperature sensor, cleaned the coolant temp sensor connectors to both male and female, still nothing. the only way i can get it to idle is if i connect the green test connectors under the hood and disconnect the coolant temp sensor completely, any other way it will not idle at all. I tried every combination of connecting and disconnecting those two and the only way is test connectors plugged in and coolant temp sensor not. i haven't left it running for long because i know you're not supposed to but this taught me that there is something here that i can fix i just have no idea what it is. i have scoured these forums for the answer and i have found nothing for this specific issue. I am now posting this as my last attempt at figuring this out and trying to revive my beloved car. Any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated, also sorry for the word vomit i just had to explain the amount of work I've put into this

Tried using the hill holder on my 1985 Brat for the first time this year. It doesn't work, I was on a pretty steep uphill stop. Any suggestions?

Instead of dual SPFI, let's go for *quad* SPFI! ... oh, wait, that's just a MPFI manifold swap.

I have to look at it closer but yes my current plan is to cut out and refab the lower radiator support from scratch, probably 2x4x1/8" wall rectangular tubing or similar. Might increase approach angle a bit and probably be stronger. Then finagle the hood latch/upper rad support back into place. Right after it happened I thought about just buying another rust free car and swapping things over but I think it will be easier and cheaper to repair this one. There don't seem to be many laws regarding flat towing, certainly not much enforcement if there are. I can't say I recommend towing something as heavy as your tow vehicle without brakes but we've done it a number of times now. It has become increasingly common over the last 5-10 years to see two or three cars hooked together driving down the interstate, likely all purchased at an auto auction. There are stories that people operate trains of up to six of these cars with more than one powering the assembly. Trying to rent a tow dolly from Uhaul on the other hand took some finagling. The van I used is a 3/4 ton, we've towed a 20' enclosed trailer with it. Eventually talked to one guy who helped me figure out which options to tell them I had so their system would let me rent a tow dolly to tow a FWD wagon, I definitely wasn't going to tell them I was going to be towing a Subaru. And the tow dolly has surge brakes, so definitely safer than flat towing from a braking perspective. That day trip was great, every time I take it off pavement I'm reminded that the first gen Impreza with EZ36 is like a cheat code as our friend A said. Didn't bother airing down, never had to use the low range or even lock the center diff, never got stuck. Also reminded me how many trails there are in the UP. My GPS log is up to 5400 miles of unpaved trails up there. There are definitely some repeats/overlapping trails so let's say we've been on 3-4000 miles of unpaved UP roads but I would guess that is about 1/4 of the unpaved roads/trails there. The one loop I did I probably would have turned around where (or before) that picture was taken it was getting so overgrown but I was still following a trail on the GPS. The other area I wound up in there were no roads anywhere on my map for miles yet quite a few roads/trails I was exploring, some of them quite wide and smooth. "Connected the dots" too as we like to say - go off the end of one road on the map and wind up on a different road on the map miles later.

I know this is old but I would just like to say that it sounds like a seal or line has ruptured, probably from the force of attempting to un-seize the brakes.