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I have a 1982 VW Vanagon with a 2.5 Subaru conversion. Need some help getting my OBD 2 scan tool/Veepeak dongle to connect with the ECU. The van came with a Veepeak OBDCheck BLE and on my phone I am using Car Scanner. Given the van came with the Veepeak dongle, I am presuming that at one time it all worked. The Veepeak dongle does work fine on my 2011 Dodge Ram. I have checked for 12V at pin 16 and ground at pins 4 and 5, all good. I do have an aftermarket radio but I can’t see it connected to any K Line; my voltage at pin 7 is less than 9 V so even if that was the case it would apparently be fine. I have replaced the OBD 2 port with a new one to ensure the pins are connecting well. Would really like to get this working for both diagnostics and dashboard instrumentation. Any thoughts?

Hello all! I have a new to me 1986 GL10 Turbo that I attempt to daily for work. It was working and then it wasn’t (the story of all things great). I work in EMS so my mechanical knowledge is pretty 101 level. it does while driving and then was dead at the key. I check all of the obvious stuff and tried jumping it. No dice. Had it flat bed towed to the shop we take our cars to and they said that the distributor and corresponding parts needs replaced. The mechanic was a former Porsche/Subaru guy so generally what I’d call reliable. the problem is that it’s old and parts are super hard to find. The ones found online didn’t match the ones in the car (rock auto for example). I’ve tried reaching out to a local shop in Salisbury (Higgins) that deal in old Subarus since they often keep old cars on site. They have insisted that they will get to the old cars that might have the part but those cars are buried on their lot and I’ve waited five weeks. I just want my car back and working. It was also suggested to me to start looking for another turbo for replacement. Not critical to the function of the car but would be strongly advised. where can I find these parts? Does this forum have folks who are selling this stuff? I’m sort of at the end of my rope and don’t want to sell a non functioning car that I know would work with the correct part. thanks in advance. point of clarity. My Subaru is at my shop- not Higgins.

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L trim automatic, last owner put ej253 from 2005 outback. Both are SOHC but new engine is cam actuators (left unplugged as ej251 wiring doesn't have plug) Engine block is ej253 (with cam actuator) and everything else including timing gear is from 2001 forester (ej251) Now i am facing CEL light with P0341. I have checked and done diagnostic as per subaru repair manual. Link to photo and video gallery for reference

I would check fuel pressure regulator if it has fuel in top vacume hose or that hose is loose or cracks. I prefer to use subaru named brands only because subaru cars don't like aftermarket or other brand parts in my experience. After fuel pressure regulator would be fuel rail and injectors. Then maybe bypass fuel filter if its fuel issue. But there must be other signs like at idle, normal speed, top speed response.

2001 subaru forester with engine swap from 2005 outback and now having P0341. Its well taken care of by its age

I own multiple classics and rarely install extra gauges in any of them. I'll confirm the OEM gauges are operating normally and leave it at that. The KISS principle makes life much easier for me. I don't need to know the exact numbers, only that I'm in a normal range. Engine temperature is all I really monitor closely since I drive my wagon through the Phoenix summers with A/C always cranked to the max. I know from using an infrared gun that 3/4 needle sweep is normal in the summer and about 206F measured at the thermostat housing. In winter, the needle reads about half way and equates to around 190F. For oil pressure, I installed a temporary T with a mechanical gauge at the filter and after a good hot freeway trip with the engine at idle, I still have good pressure. When you have good oil pressure at hot idle, you will always have good oil pressure at any other engine temperature or RPM. Since I have an idiot light for oil pressure, I make sure the bulb is working as I start it each day. If I let the clutch out a little fast and almost kill the engine, I'll see the oil light flicker when the RPM's drop below spec. That's another confirmation that the oil pressure switch is working fine. For fuel pressure, I only check that if I install a new pump. Again, I have installed a temporary port under the hood and confirmed pressure is in spec. After that, I remove the gauge and forget about it.

I wouldn't mind the stock gauges, but they are so vague. My GL has the fancy gauge cluster with voltage, oil pressure, and temp. But I'd like actual values rather than relying on a 35 y/o gauge without values. I actually don't know if my oil pressure gauge works. The P/O had a mechanical gauge installed where the dash clock was and this leaked oil all over the dash wiring harness and he cut into the defrost vent to get the gauge to fit. That really didn't help on a Wisconsin winter morning. I just like numbers for monitoring and diagnostic. :] If I had to choose one gauge to not get, it'd be the fuel pressure.

I'll agree that extra data is fun to work with but constantly monitoring your fuel and coolant pressure in an EA82? I have the ultra basic (no tach) factory instrument package in my 87 DL 5-speed. The coolant temp gauge and the oil pressure idiot light are enough for me and got this wagon to 255K miles so far. Sometimes less is best for simplicity sake.

ISSPRO has them. I'd go all ISSPRO since they're good quality and come with sensors and harnesses. But they cost a pretty penny, thus this discussion before I spend that chunk of change. Plus you can program in custom warning lights and change the backlight colors. :]

I Tee’d my mechanical coolant temp gauge into the heater hose on the outlet from engine hose. Works a treat. Personally I wouldn’t like to Tee into the factory location, moving both sensors away from the direct flow of the coolant wouldn’t be an accurate reading. I’ve not seen a coolant pressure sensor as a standalone aftermarket gauge, but I’m not looking for one either. Many ppl feel comfortable with electric sensors and gauges over the older mechanical equivalents. I’d buy from a reputable brand that you can get some after sale service with if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

So if i disconnect my pc from the internet and change the date will it work?

you need a computer that has never been on the internet since greenspeed

I'd like to install some electronic aftermarket gauges on my dash to display more data and keep tabs on the health on my EA82. Electric gauges since I wouldn't have to run fluid lines into the cabin. Though I prefer the simplicity and cost of mechanical gauges. The gauges I'd like to install are oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, and coolant pressure. The reason for the coolant pressure is that I'd, in theory, be able to see if my coolant pressure is spiking/ rising and thus detect head gasket leaks into the cooling system. Also monitor the water pump performance. For my coolant temp, I'd thought of installing a T-fitting to where the stock coolant temp sensor sits, allowing me to keep the stock one and add on the additional sensor. Will this affect my temp readings? Would this cause turbulence in the cooling system? Would air cooling the fitting throw off my readings? Would my readings be affected by the sensor being repositioned in relation to coolant flow? I've never messed with aftermarket electric gauges before and I'm open to thoughts and opinions before I go and spend the money on the gauges and sensors. Thanks :]

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation of cylinder washing. I wouldn’t think you’d lose that much compression though unless rings are super shot already. But I could be wrong on that too. I too said it was unlikely all four cylinders would have a stuck valve. This one seems almost the same as removing the spark plugs and cranking. Cheers Bennie

thanks folks. I forgot to mention there are no leaks/drips under the car.

since it pumps back up, I figured it isn't a cracked lever. The problem seems more hydraulic in nature?

I'm the one who suggested that the cylinders were washed. lol. The piston rings seal with a very thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall. If you ever get fuel without starting, like trying to get a bunch of old gas and a dirty carb to run, the fuel washes this thin oil coat off the cylinder walls, and you lose compression. Fixing the problem that caused it not to start (i.e. flushing bad fuel, and dismantling and cleaning a gummed up carb), and starting it, will get oil slung back onto the cylinder walls, restoring the ring seal, and restoring compression. Sticky valves or such aren't going to happen simultaneously to all four cylinders from a running engine... Mechanical things that could affect all cylinders at once are a broken crank, broken cam (I saw this once! ... but there was a lot more broken too), broken timing gears, slipping ring gear (so you're not actually cranking the engine), etc... But if the accessories and dist are turning, those are all going to be fine. Broken cam or timing gears also cause a distinctly different sound, since some cylinders will be stuck with both valves closed, and compress each revolution - the sound of an EJ ready for a timing belt and half the valves replaced.... Am I positive I'm right? Of course not. They could have blown both headgaskets at once, or some other simultaneous multiple failure. Or the engine is total crap and never actually had any approximation of full compression but was limping along. But, based on my experience, I think it's the most likely diagnosis, which is why I said "probably".

whats the chances that you might feel generous enough to send me a link to the 11-14 wrx version? and maybe im really lucky and timmy1236 feels like explaining his work around for the serial lock issue?? any help is greatly appreciated guys!!

1+ Flush and bleed they system. New hose master to slave if it's original.

Other things to check in addition to whats mentioned above... Check the pedal assembly under the dash. Those years can get cracks in the pedal bracket. Remove and check the pivot pin itself for wear. I've long since replaced mine with a hardened bolt, washers and locknut. Is 2006 the a push clutch? The stamped fork tends to crack overtime. Hard to check though. Pull clutch uses forged fork and has no issues.

Alternator changed Friday evening and had a muffler put on by a local mom-n-pop shop this morning. Next on the list is a water pump. I noticed my belt was fraying after that quick drive up the road last week. I am confident I've got the water pump for non-AC GLs and it's slightly out of alignment.

Master cylinder is becoming gummy. It could be worth flushing the clutch hydraulic system. At worst you might need to replace the master cylinder. Or have the whole system overhauled. Also, the clutch pedal when it goes to the floor will not naturally return, at least in my Gen 1 RS Liberty it doesn’t.

A complete loss of compression suggests it’s mechanical. It would be odd for all cylinders to lose compression, yes, but stranger things happen though. Someone even suggested that the cylinder walls were washed and will come good. I don’t know what that means exactly though - but it is something mechanical that’s the issue. I’d be flushing out the old fuel rather than having the engine eat it. I’d put the highest octane fuel you can get and run that for several tanks, then return to your regular fuel octane rating you use. Cheers

The weather was finally somwhat bearable (if humid as hell for my tastes), my leg is 99% healed, and I had a day off to play with, so I started poking at the rear suspension again. Pulled the subframe apart and separated the sheet metal piece from the diff, and removed the knuckle assemblies including the CV's and lateral arms. Also I think i made my first obnoxious mistake. Nothing too unrecoverable but still... annoying. Made a couple of test fits and chalk marks with the whole assembly to get an idea of what I thought I'd be wanting to chop. Actually chopping was the mistake (sort of) - but I'll detail that shortly. The diagonal marks indicate roughly where the frame ends on the brat where I need the subframe to sit. Did another test fit with just the diff and subframe, determined it would be easier to fit where I needed it to if I just cut it straight where the stock bushings ended. The intent here was (and I guess still is) to re-fabricate mounting points to the frame with new bushing locations to fit in the smaller chassis. Got everything tucked up in and sort of leaned in place where I think It will go. The diff is bolted to the subframe, and then also mounted to the original Brat front diff crossmember. Fits pretty close to where it needs to be - only thing now is that it looks as if there's about 1.5 - 2 inches of height I'll need to make up to keep everything sitting level. It was at this point where looking back I think I maybe made a bit of a mistake cutting off the bushings. Funny thing is - mere minutes after completing all the test fitting and cutting today, a friend sent me a youtube video from a guy doing a similar subframe swap in on a later gen brat where he just...*widened the frame and used the stock bushings.* Shocker, this would have been a much simpler approach and I think there would still be enough clearance for me to narrow the links and CVs to tuck everything back in under the stock wheel wells. Granted, the gentleman in question had to refabricate his whole rear frame, and appeared to be planning on adding a widebody kit setup though so maybe he didn't need to be so concerned about the wheelbase width in the back. Lack of access to the "frame" from a different perspective was also a reason for me not thinking of this - I'm still using the bed as a demi-storage locker and haven't cut the bed floor or wheel wells out yet. Might change that and get the ol' death wheel out for the bed soon to, but that metal is in pretty good shape and I'd rather not cut into it if I don't have to. I'm deciding to look at the silver linings here - It's probably for the best I'm still going my own way of it - I'm definitely maximizing the room i have available to move the wheels inboard for a more stock look. I'm thinking I might be able to get clever and integrate the original moustache bar mounts or something... We'll see - I have to sleep on it. Absolute worst case I go to the junkyard and try to source another rear subframe and then widen the frame rails similarly to the other builder. A quick Google looks like one can be had for about $150 used. Maybe less if I find a pick and pull with one nearby or get lucky on marketplace. Mounting problems aside - having put everything roughly where I want it and looking at the bare underside of the subframe itself I think I'm going to have to take a slightly different track and shorten both the CV as well as the lateral links - chopping up the subframe more than I already have is going to prove much more complex than I initially assumed. I'd wanted to try to save on parts money and maintain stock impreza parts wherever possible, but in this case I think it will end up becoming much more expensive in terms of my time to relocate the pivot points instead of just changing to an adjustable link setup (It looks like I can get some of those for my GC model year for about $200.) Hopefully adjustable links will be adjustable enough to where I don't need to modify those to shorten them sufficiently. Anyways, looks a lot like it did when I started today but now I have more information to play with. Ever onward!

Long time no write... After retirement, I rarely drive my wagon, after it sits for a while, I find the clutch pedal does not return after pressing. I CAN lift it and pump it enough to shift, then, after driving for a while, it starts behaving mostly normally. Anyone experience this? clutch master or slave cylinder????