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1998 Subaru Forester, 5-speed, 275K miles. ONLY does it it in 2nd Gear. Drives fine in 2nd Gear. If it's not internal tranny noise, Is there anything that the linkage could be rubbing against? The shifter linkage and related parts were replaced at about 250K. Transmission Noise Thanks for feedback.

I just spoke with buddy and he reminded me that he used 2 vacuums. One blowing in and one sucking out the other end. Save the pieces and find a recycler.

I had to unjam the cassette ejection mechanism last night. After I plugged the cassette player back in, the rear wiper switch illuminated for the first time in my ownership. There's some weird electrical gremlins going on here. So maybe the door lock issue is some sort of electrical issue. I'll break out the FSM and multimeter this weekend and check out what's going on. Oh I wish it's actually a mechanical issue, those make so much more sense than those invisible electrons.

Try just banging on it and dumping out the broken bits.

Runs perfect albeit on the loud side. VAROOOM!!!

Yeah, looking at the transes side by side, you can see that the sundial is considerably larger on the 4eat than the 5mt. I ended up just buying a pair of 5mt axles... Will report after install.

I want the wiper arms! Front struts any good?? Ed egowing@tds.net

I think you’d also need the sundials to run the correct oil seal on the shaft. Male CV shafts require a larger seal, the male stub axles need a smaller diametre seal. Bit of a stuff around but worth the effort to work with what you have. I’m unsure if the auto box’s sundials will fit the manual, I’ve not tried that. The early phase 2 gearbox with stub axles and all phase 1 gearboxes’ sundials will fit your later phase 2 gearbox that takes the male CV shaft setup.

Someone once was telling someone I know that you need a pair of the automatic transmission stub shafts to fit some brand of locker into the 5mt, so I'm assuming everything is typical subaru lego.

A 2-headlight GL? That's a new one for me! It's a tilt wheel difference... The correct switch is on the left side of the column, and has a maybe 9" long wire pigtail with a pink 6-pin connector on the end. The one with no pigtail, from non-tilt columns, or with a black connector, from other vehicles, won't fit. Ask me how I know. lol Thanks again!

bushytails, mine is a GL as well, so I don't think compatibility should be an issue.

Converter ended up being the problem - just took a minute to warm up and relearn I guess, Runs perfect without the exhaust connected

You were right! Thanks man! Now...this newer 05-09 stuff has the curved catalytic converters right by the engine, they're going to be much harder to gut....

Cat converter - seems fine, disconnected exhaust and still runs just as bad. Fuel filter is in the tank, can't replace - i'll have to pressure test or pull the fuel line and see how well is sprays out Ill get a new oxygen sensor later.

2005-2009 doesn't have a fuel filter, or it's "in the fuel tank".

What year/model engine and did you have check engine lights in those cases? Max 4,000 RPM with no power for hills but otherwise drives without hiccup or stalling is oddly specific, I doubt your symptoms were identical. It would be drivable on flat land, but can't get up hills.

Could be a partially-clogged fuel filter. Put in a new one, and see if it makes any difference.

Doesn't seem to be the oxygen sensor. I'll try disconnecting the exhaust in the morning.

Oh wow my good sir, wasn't considering the exhaust at all. That would be awesome. Aye aye captain - I rammed one out of an XT6 20+ years ago. It's not drivable enough to accrue miles and calculate gas mileage. Yeah this is a new sensor but it's the style that comes with bare leads you splice the old connector onto - and I do'nt trust that it's wired properly. I'll check those.

I once had the same symptoms from a bad airflow sensor, and another time it was the pedal position sensor. There are lots of possibilities for those symptoms. It will run without the O2 sensor, but it does so in limp home mode which would be as you describe - I would start with a new O2 sensor. Rock Auto sells Denso Front O2 Sensor which is GTG. How is fuel mileage? If the A/F ratio is off the mileage will suffer.

Possibly clogged cat converter(s)? Broken bit's of the honeycomb will follow gravity and clog the exhaust when car is heading up hill. The noise will startle the neighbors but if you can disconnect the cat(s) and test drive, that will help in diagnosing this issue. Buddy had this issue and just emptied the broken bits and drove on.

Engine starts and idles fine, can't tell anything is wrong until you go to drive it. It's severely underpowered. Floor it and it very slowly accelerates, sometimes can get up to 40 mph on flat or downhill. It won't even make it up a steep mountain, so it's undrivable around here. New headgaskets, timing belt, and compression tested fine so I assume the timing marks are still good, but Ill check them tomorrow. Drove fine for 3-4 months after the HG then gradually got worse over a week before it became undrivable. The oil had significant coolant/water mixed in with the oil before I did the HG's - could the valve control solenoids be damaged by that? P0038 front O2 sensor code - car does the same thing with the sensor plugged in or unplugged. Will these run without a front O2 plugged in? Maybe the 02 sensor is bad. It has a 4 wire Bosch O2 sensor with the old plug spliced on - does anyone know how to verify the wires are correct? It had a cylinder 3 and multiple cylinder misfires - I replaced the plugs and wires with subaru issued goods, and the codes for those went away - but the CEL did flash last night on a test drive then quit...so maybe it's still doing it intermittently. Any suggestions.....

The stubby shaft out of the 00-04 trans pops right out, it's only held in by a circlip and readily pops out. Put the axle on it with roll pin and yank or use suitable tool to pull it out. Put the 00-04 stubby shaft into the 00-04 axle and you then have an axle with a stubby inner shaft. I'm not positive it fits into the later 05+ trans but I think they do and it should be really easy to check.

Plumbed a tee into the top line feeding the steering brake and put a bleeder on that, after bleeding that spot and the calipers a bit more it seems fine now. B replaced a front wheel bearing on his Forester which seemed to help his on/off throttle steering issue. I edited and posted two videos from our last trip to the UP, one long, one short:

The power locks use a switch in the driver door that tells the other locks when to lock or unlock. So the drivers door lock is manual and controls all the other locks with that master switch "actuator" (there's actually no motor in it). I opened the switch and checked the internal contacts. Everything is operating as it should. No cracked solder joints or excessive corrosion. It's nice to be able to open components. When I was looking in the FSM, allegedly there is a power lock actuator on the rear cargo door (the car is a wagon/estate). If so, it's never operated as a power lock in my ownership and doesn't trigger the door lock light. I've always used it as a manual lock. Perhaps the actuators are ran in series and when one goes bad, the rest don't work (like old school Christmas lights). The locks don't make any noise. They operate as manual locks and the 3 doors other than the driver door and rear cargo door trigger the door lock light.