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Have you done a voltage drop yet? If you already know this then feel free to ignore Find the ground for these switches and put one lead on the battery ground and one at whatever point these are grounded. Meter should read zero or close to it. If it is higher than .5 V (rule of thumb) than your problem is in the ground termination. If it is zero, than do the same thing but from the ground side of the switch to the ground termination. Repeat on the positive side as well. If you suspect the switch is corroded as you say, than a voltage drop across the switch with the switch closed will tell you for sure. A non corroded switch should have zero voltage (potential difference) across the switch when it is closed, and ~12 when it is open.

Awesome thanks!

A wiring diagram would be extremely helpful. You tested the fuses and fusible links, not just by looking at them correct? You used a meter or test light?

Make an appointment with Google for repairs? Seriously, do the same search "Subaru loss of power, switch to neutral back to drive and resolves" for a deeper dive. AI Overview: A Subaru losing power while driving but recovering when shifted to neutral and back to drive (N-D reset) usually indicates a transmission control module (TCM) glitch, a faulty inhibitor/neutral safety switch, or a torque converter solenoid issue. This action effectively resets the transmission's active gear command.

I suspect there's corrosion in the turn signal switch.. from what I understand, the horn goes through that same switch and when I peek into it from the left side of the column it looks pretty nasty. Will update tomorrow after pulling the wheel and attempting to clean it up.

It's plugged on GLs, and has a switch on DLs, as the text says. Note the thread is 1/8 BSPT, not 1/8 NPT, but they're similar enough it usually fits. Also note if you swap in a DL engine into a GL, and then plug the wire into the switch, where the wire is exactly the length and position and connector to plug onto the switch, you cook the dash gauge. Seen that done twice now...

There's been a new development. My ECU threw a code 32 for the O2 sensor. Best I can tell the car never came with one. I have swapped the ECU that came in the car for a different one. Perhaps the donor car came with an O2 sensor. But I've been driving with this ECU for months and it only now popped up the code. I'll swap back to my old ECU and see if that makes a difference. If not I'll swap in my Cali-spec cat I have and throw in an O2 sensor. It'd help my gas mileage - plus save the planet and all that. :]

Hello all! I bought a Brat a couple years back and she has been really good to me, except one of the previous owners installed an aftermarket turbo with a sidedraft Carter YH carb off an old corvair (it was a pretty cool setup). I however, live in California, and am trying to get it to pass smog. I am bringing it back to stock, and have it running with the Carter-Weber. The line marked in the first picture was originally running as a feed line for the turbo. I am planning on removing it and just installing a plug, but I am not sure what the stock condition was. The factory service manual is not immediately clear, Picture 3 shows a pressure switch installed on the non-GL models. However, Picture 4 seems to imply that the pressure switch is installed where the relief valve plug would be located (the line is coming from the block though and the relief valve plug is on the oil pump housing cover). My best guess is that on the GL models with the pressure gauge instead of switch, this port is plugged. TLDR: Can someone with a EA 81,1800cc, GL model; Send me a picture to see if that is plugged or if there is an oil line there that feeds elsewhere? Thanks!

I've searched the forum extensively but haven't found anyone with this particular issue. This '91 Loyale has been sitting for about two years. It was running fine prior to its long rest but now that the battery has been replaced and its up and running again, the following issues have cropped up: Turn signals don't turn on Hazards don't turn on Dash turn arrow indicators do not illuminate when flashers ought to be on The flasher relay is not clicking The 'Stop Lamp' dash light is lit (but brake lights and headlights are fine) Horn doesn't work Here is what I've done to try to solve the problem: replaced flasher relay (no change, no power getting to the line per the test light) replaced all hazard/blinker bulbs (no change, still no blinkers, 'stop lamp' still lit on dash) tested all fuses in box and the four fusible links under hood (all were fine, the hazard/horn/clock fuse is fine, clock works) I'm at a loss as to what to do next other than dig further into the dash and to trace the flasher wire back further (not fun). Prodemand is not helpful. Please ultimatesubaru, you're my only hope!

VVT will flag codes ending up in limp mode. The mechanism is kind of cool if you end up diving into the valve cover. Yes the oil pressure sensors leak and make a mess on top of the engine, but not expensive or hard to replace. the 3.0 h6 is a great engine presume the 3.0r is the same. we're running a jdm h6 replaced at 300k now into 400k miles on the 02 h6 outback. lots of hex bolts on the timing cover. had fuel leaks on the rails/injectors just replaced orings/seals/lines/dampeners dang expensive. had a hard steering line oring fail on the rack but what do you expect after 25 years.

Glad you got it fixed! A very interesting thread and timely too. I was just about ready to post up my own appeal for help with my 87 DL SPFI 5-speed that has nearly the same symptoms. It starts as easily as it ever has, over and over but will not idle or run at a steady throttle position. It runs great if under acceleration but I have to keep blipping the throttle to keep it running. I'll review the info here first and make sure I haven't missed anything before I start my own thread.

For any of those interested Rockauto has 4 NEW SPFI injectors in stock under an '86 GL. They're $400 USD. That's a very low price compared to some eBay sellers.

Checked the filter in the injector, it is clean.

ok, Ill look at the old one.

The spring clips need to be pushed in so they go in the notch in the pad, not sticking out on top.

I think there's a hidden filter in the injector. You might try seeing if it's got a chunk of decaying fuel line or something stuck in it, that might happen to the new injector.

I found the problem! Swapped throttle body top 2 layers. This include fuel pressure reg, IAC valve, and Injector. Runs fine now. Since the regulator measured good, and the IAC was swapped earlier, I'm going with the injector is bad.

Yeah, I figured the IAC shouldn't bother open throttle. I did have a wagon years ago that had a broken wire in the IAC circuit years ago. It ran fine, but died if I let the pedal go to idle. I also put a voltmeter on the 12V powered side of the ignition coil, and it was steady except for slight variations because the alternator rpm varying.

The IAC has no effect at open throttle, so it's easy to rule out anything to do with it.

I've had a wire break inside the engine harness to the IAC before. I've also had several connectors have poor terminal connection. Then again, I would typically get a CEL but not all the time. Since you have no hard starts I don't suspect a wiring issue with the IAC. The fact that you've swapped a majority of the typical suspect components and it still acts the same leads me to think an intermittent connection somewhere.

More things checked - Spark plug wires, checked ok, but swapped anyways, no effect. TPS switch and pot both are withing normal settings / ranges. One other thing I forgot to put in the OP, it starts right up no problem - no hard start.

Have you checked the values and calibration of the TPS? I'm not as familiar with the autos as I am with the manuals. Isn't there a drop down circuit that senses when you go in gear and it'll drop the idle?

SPFI in 93, I think I read to 94. I checked the EGR valve after the OP, and yes, it is working normally. Took it off to check that it wasn't stuck open, etc.

I'm thinking of the mpfi version. they were still doing spfi in 93? Shows how many of those I've worked on. lol Sorry, my bad. egr valve stuck open?

@bushytailsadvice was exactly what I needed. I just finished up my brake job tonight. Thanks again man!