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I got a 89' 2 door GL hatchback EA82 and I am wanting to swap it for something with more power. My car is a 4 speed so I want to swap the trans while I am at it. I just got a 2004 manual forester transmission and I am deliberating about what motor to go for. There is a auto subie with a 2.2 for 300 dollars and lowish miles near by which is appealing, but I have heard that it is harder to find wiring diagrams for the OBD1 cars. As I understand it the hardest part of the swap is the wiring, so should I try to look for a newer 2.2 with OBD2? There is also a newer donor with a 2.5 nearby, but it seems like most people avoid swapping the 2.5 because of the head gaskets?

UPDATE #2: I *FINALLY* found one on Ebay from a very well-rated seller for $330 Here's the LINK

I currently own a 1988 GL-10 Turbo with a center diff lock and a 1990 Loyale with a 5sp dual range transmission out of a 86 GL. I've found myself wondering if it would be possible to take the locking differential out of the GL-10 and transplanting it into the transmission my Loyale to mimic the coveted RX transmission. Any thoughts?

Also check facebook marketplace and any u pull it salvage yard. 1O.

I bought an aftermarket shaft for my 05 (I think) now sold that worked out just fine. I will search my posts here to see what other info I may have posted. check out Parts Geek. They have some for Auto at $300+ https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/subaru/outback/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/drive_shaft.html?rp=driveshaft

How can I reach you to possibly get this CAD so I can have none made?

Really appreciate the recommendations here! I did a parooze through ebay and FB marketplace the other day and it's quite slim on OEM axles. I'm on the west coast of Canada on Vancouver Island so the junk yard and general parts availability is pretty minimal. I have seen a few stock Loyales around town though so I might try to approach an owner and see if they have any spare parts around or can help on the local scene. I think I'll start with the RockAuto axles just to get her rolling again and keep on the hunt for OEM as I go. Thanks again!

UPDATE: I called the driveline shop and they said that since Subaru stakes the u-joints (and don't use c-clips to retain the bearing cups) they can't be rebuilt, nor can the carrier bearing (most likely). Sigh . . .

DMV always seems to be a pain. Glad you got it worked out.

90-04 Legacy/Outback with an auto is all interchangeable. Ujoints are staked in, but can be replaced. I've done many. I did a writeup on it years ago: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/driveshaft-u-joint-replacement.465866/ And yea, almost every car or crossover on the market with AWD has staked in joints, driveline shops are everywhere and generally very familiar with them.

Imdew - DUH! Of course! I'll check that out right away! THANKS!!

Bit of a delay getting the title transferred due to a rogue DMV employee. I seriously debated scrapping the car over it. This is the second time this employee has accused me of forging signatures due to a gel ink pen. They claim it looks like it was printed/copied due to the darker more consistent gel ink. They also made me get a new title transfer form because the joint owner of the car signed it differently than the back of the title. I waited in line my third visit and just let people go in front of me until a different employee was free. The original 1986 Texas title was surrendered and I'll have the new one in a few weeks. With this step completed I'm a lot more comfortable investing time into the car.

Good Driveshaft shop can rebuild it.

Junk yards and online (eBay, FB marketplace) would be where to source the axles. Problem is finding a car with the right axles. There's 4 or 5 different types of axles. While there's general guidelines you can follow to know which axles will be in which car, it also seems that Fuji just grabbed a random set of axles off the shelf and just put them on each car as it was going down the assembly line. It's really annoying tracking down axles. I had to buy 3 axles that were listed as the axle I needed before I got the one I was looking for. Unless you go there in person and can identify the axles, assume the person who listed the axle (new, refurb, or used) doesn't know which axle it is. In the FSM, there is an axle chart (in section 4 I believe) use that to find the identification bands on the axle shaft, the shape of the inner joint cup, and the inner joint spline count. These are your general identification landmarks. For the interim, I'm sure the Rock Auto axles will work just fine. But once you get the car rolling, I'd be saving up for used OEM axles, new front struts, a set of 4x140 wheels, some wheel bearings, and strut mounts. Just my opinion but if you're even considering dropping the car to stock height, start locating parts ASAP. KYB struts can only be found easily shipped from Australia. So shipping is very expensive, plus the "old a** part" tax. You'd be looking at $700 for a pair including shipping. Strut mounts (again, KYB brand) are also very hard to find. And typically go for $40-$90 per mount. It'd be expensive to drop the car and give the suspension the attention it probably needs or will need soon. But it's easier on the car long-term and makes the parts struggle a little less complicated. Tldr: The Rock Auto axles are a good permanent solution for a "throw away" car but if you plan to keep it long term, I'd recommend going to stock suspension. Begin your hunt for the parts required to make that swap ASAP. Last call for parts was a decade ago, we're stumbling out on the end of a bartender's broom at this point.

WOW! I've been trying ot find a replacement driveshaft for my 2000 Legacy/Outback with automatic transmission. EVERYBODY seems to have them for a manual tranny, but not automatic or for a zillion other years - but the lists jump over year 2000! The only one I can find is Dorman at $603. YIKES! Any ideas other than a used one? I 'suppose' I could rebuild my existing one, but I don't know if the u-joints are staked and non-repairable (it's outside, I'm inside and lazy right now) Thanks!

have a look here: https://www.icarsoft.com/Article/s-269-269.html a reasoned step-wise diagnosis and treatment for your code

No clue what the lift combination is to be honest. It looks like whoever did the lift just put bigger struts in... that was one of the first things I looked for and I still haven't found blocks anywhere. The history of the vehicle is a bit of a mystery... the previous owner said they found it abandoned in a parkade. There was apparently already a lift on it at that point. I'll see if I can get you some measurements when I go to work on it next.

The old axles were aftermarket as well and even worse off than the new ones I put in. Not sure if they were longer or different than stock in some way as I didn't install them and they were already failed when I got the vehicle. 😕

I thought about dropping things back to stock but I'd love to leave the lift as is for now if I can. Can't seem to find the OEM parts anywhere since they've all been discontinued... might have to go with the RockAuto extreme articulation axles unless you might be able to share some sources for axles or good alternatives?

My 2005 Outback has about 148,000 miles and is AT. The P0638 only occurs after about an hour of highway driving. Symptoms are immediate loss of power. The car becomes can barely move itself and idle is rough. I then Turn the car Off and wait 30 seconds. When I start the car it will drive normally for 5-10 minutes before it happens again. If you drive it very moderately at 40mph it seems to not happen as frequently. Working it hard seems to bring it on more rapidly. I have read a common cause of this fault is a bad accelerator pedal. So I replaced that with no cure. Another possible cause is a bad Throttle Position Sensor, which is fully integrated into the throttle body. So I replaced the throttle body and it's GPS with a used throttle body. The replacement was faulty and the problem got much much worse. So I got a new Throttle Body and GPS for $125. Still no cure, and it went back to being a problem only occuring after about an hour of highway driving. Seems like another cause could be the ECM? Any suggestions?

Try replacing the coil pack. The one on our 2000 RX Liberty (EJ251) gave out at ~480,000km. This gave a jerky drive sensation and was most obvious under load. Initially it was random but got to the point that it would always do it under load. Higher load = worst cut out etc. And yes, MAP on these engines.

My daughter has a Legacy (automatic transmission) with about 180,000 miles on it. So the problem is very intermittent and has never occurred while I drive it. It seems this car has a MAP sensor instead of a MAF Sensor. There is no check engine light but a PO420 code occurrs from time to time. Poor mileage. Occasionally runs rough or stalls, hesitates, jerks and lunges. Does this sound like a failing MAP sensor? We already removed the throttle body and cleaned it.

I think we're just going to sell the car. Aside from not having a TPS, the engine runs well. Being in the PNW, hopefully we'll find some interest. Thanks to azdave and SuspiciousPizza for your advice.

What’s your lift combination with the heights/block size for the strut block, engine crossmember blocks and the gearbox crossmember blocks? What sort of springs are you running in the front end? I’m wanting to understand how your lift is possibly effecting your CV angles to max them out. Can you also measure the distance between the ground and the highest point on the arch of your mud guard/fender when the car is sitting naturally and then when jacking it up right at the point that the rubber starts to lift off the ground. This should measure your droop or downwards travel amount in the suspension.

Since turning doesn't make it worse, it would have to be the inner joints. What was wrong with your old axles, and do you still have them? You might try frankenaxles with your old inner joints and shafts, and your new outer joints, assuming the inners weren't bad (they rarely are) on your old ones.