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Great info, thanks !

Yep, several of both. I'm not a fan of the Baja, it's an Outback with less usable space, less weight capacity, and a novelty price premium. But my wife has always loved them, so we have 2. Non turbo Bajas use the single bulb headlight like the Legacy L. Turbos have the Outback/GT 2 bulb set. The exhaust is probably the same to the flange at the rear axle, but muffler is different (rear overhang is longer. Might be able to lengthen Outback muffler assembly to use on a Baja. I haven't looked that closely). Fuel tank is not specific to the Baja, but there are a few different part numbers depending on year and emissions. But a Federal 04 Outback and Federal 04 Baja will have the same tank. There are many things that are interchangeable but different. Dash trim is silver instead of wood grain, but interchangeable. Fenders, doors and front bumper will fit, but is different (I've heard that you can drill mounting holes in the Outback sheet metal and put the Baja cladding on it, but I haven't verified). Rear door glass is specific to body style (Sedan, Wagon, Baja). Outback seats will physically bolt in, but as with swapping between Outbacks, some have side airbags, power adjustment, etc. I think the rear seat will swap, as I remember someone wanting to have 3 seats there instead of 2, and I think they were successful. Most specific things to the Baja are unobtanium. Although I have been seeing more and more 3d printed parts for them. Some of the clips and trim for the bed area.

I'm ASSuming the GL-10 is a manual. If it's an auto, no. Just no, but I don't think there was one marketed as a locking center so I'm assuming manual. The input shaft is different depending on single or dual range. The latter being 2 piece for the extra gearset, and the former being one continuous shaft from the clutch disc through all 6 gears (don't forget reverse). The DR transmission case has a bunch of extra machining for the low range. It looks to me like the casting is the same and theoretically this could be duplicated, but would require some serious machine work. The Output shaft is different depending on FT4WD/AWD or PT4WD/FWD. The former being hollow so the pinion shaft can spin independent of the output shaft, the latter being one piece, pinion and output shaft. So in theory, you have an example of each. BUT (and it's a big one), these 2 transmissions have different ratios, so both would have to be disassembled and parts swapped for it to work. The 1st, Reverse and 2nd drive gear are part of the input shaft. So you would need to be able to put the associated driven gears from the PT4WD output shaft onto the FT4WD, the other 3 gearsets could be used from either, as long as it's a matched set, but 5th is very short in the turbo cars, so I would assume you'd want the non turbo set. I have not seen anyone try to swap them. I do know that all the bearings that those gears ride on are different part numbers between them. I got 98% done assembling an RX box with non turbo low range and 5th gears, EJ 4.444 ring and pinion and AWD center diff. I also wanted to use a Carbonetic clutch type front LSD, but it crashed hard into the low range gears, then the rest of the car didn't pan out.... But the EJ pinion gear does fit the EA82 FT4WD output shaft perfectly and then the EJ center housing bolts to the back of the EA82 front case.

Drop the subframes an inch or two as bushytails said. This is definitely your issue with the CVs!

The thing is just lifted with taller struts rather than blocks or anything conventional... plus they put bigger wheels on it. I would need to replace all the struts and wheels and at that point I might as well put it back to stock.

I'll give the Turbo Beanie a shot for now! Love the name lol. I would like to remake the chimney, or something similar. I just gotta get my hands on a metal folder or bending break, whatever those things are called. I kinda liked the way the original chimney looked, but I'm sure some black spray paint will do the job.

I'm on the west coast, so sending my tank to those guys in PA might be a bit difficult for me, but I will definitely keep it in mind. The fuel filter right before the pump is a good idea, I don't know why I didn't think of that sooner! It would at least help keep it from eating my pumps lol. I'm kinda having to drive the thing regularly to get to work right now since my wagon is undergoing some of her own repairs. So as soon as she's done, I think I'll take out the tank and just, scrub away what I can and then give it a good so soak in some vinegar, and follow up with baking soda since that seems to work with other people. Hopefully just running it and changing out filters will clear up some gunk, and the bath will get the rest. I'll follow up with results!

Just thought I'd note something I learned. When you're installing the cam towers with the cams installed, you must first put on the rockers. The issue with the rockers is that you must use a lubricant to stick the rockers to the HLA's. If the lubricant you use is too thin, it will run down and could get on the sealing surface between the head and the cam tower. This will cause oil leaks since the RTV won't bind to the head. Rather than using an assembly lube, try using an assembly grease. Something very tacky with the viscosity of Vaseline or thicker. This will allow you to stick the rockers on without the worry of lube running onto a sealing surface. Once the cam tower is on, then you can use a normal assembly lube on the cam lobes and rockers. I still have to start up my engine and then do the retorque. I'll post back here if I learn anything when doing the retorque. :]

Uncovered some New Old Stock and re-chromed bumpers for gen one Brat and 4wd wagon. Listed on ebay. Check all out items on ebay under “cashingmystuffin”

You can't remove the core of the clutch cable. It has crimped attachments on both ends.

I personally prefer to use graphite for any of my cables. My speedo cable is starting to get pretty lazy and I have to pull out the inner cable from the sheath, run it through my hand with graphite cupped in my palm. Throw it back in and repeat the process when the needle starts its squeal and bounce routine. Not sure if it'll work with the clutch cable but you can pour it like a light oil and it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't harden like grease. You just have to be careful near electrical connections. Just food for thought.

Forgot to add my NOS cables are from the 70s and sat in a barn for a couple decades and on top of that now I’m a good 18 years after the lot purchase we made. Good luck.

Check for a crack in thr pedalbox. Left side near the pivot pin. Get down there and either press the clutch pedal with a hand ot have someone else do it while you observe the left side of the box. If it flexes at all you’ll likely have that crack. Do it regardless of all you’ve done and learned. This is a common problem. I have new old stock cables i sometimes need and they’re fine. If anything just a squirt of lube. But they're coated and should not bind much until many many many years of weather and grime.

You may be able to buy the 88 wiring with the used 88 distributor from the source that I mentioned. One additional electrical issue that I have on my 86, is the hot wire from the alternator, gets hot, gets brittle and breaks within about 6 inches of the alternator or at the alternator. Then the engine runs on the battery until the battery is dead. Then is won't crank the engine over and everything is as dead as a door nail. Also, both distributor cap bolts need to be down tight. There are issues with the diaphragm not allowed the forward screw, not able to be fully tightened.

It would be the 85 to 94 EA 82 engine series. I am assuming that nothing improved with the loyales as I was working on an 86 turbo. An additional note, I squirted as much lithium grease in each end of the cable as I could get, before installation. After installation, I noticed considerably less resistance in the operation of the clutch.

The crusty bolts are the ones that go into coolant passages. I wouldn't remove just two bolts. If you absolutely have to remove two bolts, untorque the whole head star-pattern in increments, remove and do whatever on the two bolts, and then re-torque all per specs. I use grease on the washers and heads (doesn't matter what kind of grease; axle is fine), then dip the threads in engine oil and wipe them off on a shop towel to remove excess. Someone told me a story of cracking a block with hydraulic pressure from installing dripping bolts and then torquing them, so I make sure it's not enough to be drippy.

Last time I had a dirty tank that kept clogging stuff... I put in the largest filter I could find before the pump, and changed it as needed until the problem went away.

Did someone plumb the solenoid into a fuel line? heh

Might want to clarify what year range/models you're working on. I'm guessing a few years of EA82? EA81 came in a few different varieties, none of which are anything like that.

Well the ignition coil won't go past 6v when cranking, even if we jump it to 12v it won't spark out. The distributor we bought was from a running 87 so we don't want to waste more money until we are absolutely sure the distributor is bad. But also we want to know what the wiring on the 87 distributor are so we can hook up the correct wires, but we think we did but we do want to make sure.

CLUTCH CABLES last about the life of 1 1/2 clutches, or about 150,000 miles. I am leaving a few tips here for your future search when you can't find a mechanic who can figure this one out. I came up with two tricks to help considerably in this nightmare of a project. The first trick is to fashion your own spring compressor out of rebar tie wire, going from one side at one end, to the opposite side at the opposite end, with a circular loop, and then do the mirror image for the other side of the spring. Set the spring in a vice with a 10mm socket over the rod end, in order to compress the spring to be as short as possible. You will have to remove the spring from the clutch lever arm in order to do this, and then reinstall the spring with the compressor still attached, before attempting final reassembly. The second trick is to fashion two 6 mm x 35 mm bolts with a filed down point on the end, to replace the two 6 mm x 30 mm bolts in place. The lower one of those bolts should be inserted in it's proper hole in the loose base retainer for the spring, before the spring is reinstalled between your loose clutch lever are and your loose base retainer for the spring. The reason for the spring compressor is make it possible to slip both the brake lever arm and the holed end of the base retainer, over the main lateral pivot bolt for both the clutch and the brake. The reason for the pointed end bolts is that you won't likely be able to use the existing bolts and get them to find the hole to which they are anchored in the anchor plate. So to help with terminology. From left to right, at the front of the clutch assembly, you have the spring assembly, the base retainer for the spring, the actual clutch cable Tee end with two holes, and then the anchor plate. The clutch lever arm has three attachments. One to the main lateral pivot bolt, one to the back end of the compressor spring, and one to the back end of the clutch cable. Subaru no longer makes these cables and there is only one supplier. Those clutch cables are quite stiff due to sitting around for 10 years. Which makes them difficult to work with. Although the Subaru manual says to remove the entire brake and clutch assembly from the firewall, I removed all 4 of those bolts and it would not budge. Furthermore, you are not going to get it very far from the fire wall with that assembly because the right end of it extends over the top of the steering column to the accelerator.

Hi again! Tried searching the forum for similar issues and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for - this might be two issues, or fifty-three issues, or they might be related to one unifying issue, so I'm just gonna put it out there. Recently (last 6 months or so), when I turn my ignition to "ON" without starting, the check engine light flashes (instead of just being steady-on) and there's a relay clicking constantly. I think it's probably the fan relay, because the fans also come on, but only for a second, then it clicks off again, sort of like when the green diagnostic connectors are connected under the kick panel, except they're not. Don't know if those two things are related (the CEL rapid flashing in "ON" position and the relay clicking), but the second part of the issue, or maybe a brand-new issue, started today. While driving around today, after having installing a new battery a couple days ago, the check engine light came on steady. So I stopped, attached the test connectors (the black ones) and got a fistful of codes. But the weird thing is, while waiting for them to cycle through again so I could double-check them, they changed. As in, started throwing codes that don't exist. Like..."8." and "5." It looks like the CEL got interrupted in the middle of flashing, so like, going from a long flash to a quick flash - maybe the code was supposed to be 18, but the long flash got cut off and made a short one, making it look like 8. This happened a few times, to a few different codes, leaving me not knowing exactly what the hell numbers I'm looking at 😂 What I *think* the codes were trying to say: 45,23,24,13,14,15,16,18? (Atmospheric sensor; airflow sensor; air control valve; cam angle sensor; fuel injector #1-3; and oh wait there is no code 18 so I really have no idea). The car appears to be driving fine. No stumbling, no cutting out, no weird smells (mostly). The only eyebrow-raising thing as far as function goes is that when I first installed the new battery (fully charged, of course), it didn't want to start right away, and then stumbled, almost died, and blew a lot of smoke (light-colored) out the tailpipe (sort of like my previous MAF problems, which I thought were solved). But once I got it to stabilize and the smoke cleared, it's been running fine since then, and only hesitated slightly to catch today after I pulled the codes. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Bad ECU, maybe? It's been replaced once, but not terribly recently, so I don't know how long the things should last. Or am I overlooking something really basic? Many thanks!

Or add to the lift! Drop the subframe.

The trip computer beep also comes on when your power steering fluid is very low.

Stuff all the synthetic grease into the old bearings that you can. You might use some 2000 grit sandpaper and see what you can take off on the CV axle.