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Fusible links are available. You can even buy them on Amazon. Just google "Subaru Loyale fusible link" and you'll get a whole bunch of listings. Have you put voltage to the fuel pump itself? Just to test the pump? You mentioned bypassing the rev sensor and the pump didn't do anything, so is it just the pump that's dead? :]

You are correct sir. It came with the Weber carb when I got it. I did check both sides of all the fuses and all had power. With the fusible links, the old school ones are hard to find. Is there a way to make your own with the correct amperage??? Thanks again

Hang on, do you have an ECU that’s running a Weber carb fed engine? Asking as all factory mechanical carb EA82s over in Oz lack an ECU. Hence why I said yours wouldn’t be able to show codes - you need to go old school on this one! Check your fusible links and the fuses under the dashboard. One of them might be dead. Cheers Bennie

Your descriptions sounds like a problem I had when the Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor in the exhaust needed replacing. $25 You also might want to change out all of the relay switches under the dash over your left knee cap. Make sure all the breather hoses are soft and get a good seal, as the rock hard breather hoses on top of the engine no longer seal. See my thread on Rock Hard Breather Hoses. Make sure that the timing advance vacuum on the distributor still holds a vacuum when you suck on the inlet. Take apart the distributor if it is not an electronic distributor, and make sure all of the swing weights are not worn on their pivot, have grease on them and they swing properly. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked. Verify that the engine problems do not occur only when you are running accessories. If accessories cause the engine problems then you need to change out your engine ground at it's left front connection to the frame, and also look for rock hard electrical wires running from your + positive battery terminal to the bottom side of the fusible link box as it loses it's ability to carry current.

Been ages for me but I’m surprised you haven’t seen any of that in the archives. I’m old but I sure do recall folks posting that info. I’be ditched the 80s and all my service manuals etc, but I’m pretty sure the code page is posted as well as how to manage the green and black connectors. 87 is a split year. You get carbs and SPFI here in the States. I’ve swapped them and plugged the EGR and lots more but again I’m a solid 20 years from having one under me. Good luck. I’ll see if I’ve still got one FSM from that era but I doubt it. They should be online. https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ There’s one for older models out there too. I just can’t find it. This one might have some info.

.Thanks for the input. As Bennie stated up above since mine is carbed I do not have the test connectors to plug together to check the flashes on my1987 (06/87) GL wagon w/1.8L carbureted motor. I'm just curious how I am supposed to get into read mode is all so I can read flashes that come from the ECU. I do get the whole Morse code sequencing.

Codes are flashes. Benny made a recent post on that. Long and short flashes indicate tens and single digits. Three longs and two shorts would be 32. And like that.

So time is fine and yes plenty of fuel. Pulled fuel line, crank no fuel. Must have been residual in line to make sit sputter and backfire.Found one of GD's post on rev sensor. Said if the tach pulse strobes with test light. There's power in and ground then rev sensor is bad. So bad sensor right. I jumpered proper wires to bypass sensor and nothing from the pump. No sound no power My question: can both of those go out at the same time or could I be missing something else?? Also no connectors, and no OBD, how can you pull codes? Thanks again for your time. This car has been racking my brain. All I look up seems to dead end me.

Welcome back to USMB! I doubt I can help much with questions about your Outback but you never know. I DD a 87 DL wagon and also enjoy my 2003 WRX wagon so that is what I know best. No shame in your new car not being "new". I'll be 66 soon and have never owned a new car in my life and have no plans to ever make that mistake decision. The most I've ever spent on a vehicle was $9500 and only once have I ever bought a car from a dealer. Every other vehicle has come from a private party. The amount of money I have saved by avoiding depreciation and not being in debt constantly, has allowed me to enjoy owning multiple classic cars while on an average salary and being comfortably set up to retire at the end of this year.

Checked the timing and it looks good to me. Both cams are in line with seams and pointing in opposite directions. Today I’m getting really tough start and about 5 seconds of idle before slowly dying. Giving it gas while trying to start kills it right away.

Awesome, thank you. I bought a drill press a year ago just for this job.

G’day Highstone Soobie, Only way to tell timing is to remove the covers and check. When the crank is lined up, one cam will be lined up and the other at 6 o’clock. It’s good that the belts are tight for a start. Since your L series is a carb model, you won’t have the green connectors for codes. That’s only for SPFI, MPFI and MPFI turbo models. I can’t remember if the carb fuel pump primes momentarily when you first turn the key to the ON position. You should be able to hear it. Alternatively, pull the fuel in hose at the carb, put a bottle on the end and turn the ignition to the ON position. Check the bottle for fuel. If none there, crank the engine over as this should tell that module thingo to operate the fuel pump. If there’s still no fuel you have an issue with the fuel pump, blocked filter or that fuel cut module. I’d first try bypassing that module temporarily. I can’t remember which wires to loop together to make the fuel pump operate with the key in the ON position. Once that’s established, next would be filter and then the pump. I’m also assuming you have enough fuel in the tank for the pump to pick it up. Cheers Bennie

As long as the springs are holding it tight, it doesn't matter what they are. My car has generic dorman ones from the auto parts store. Did you make a new bracket?

I wonder who is still around. I was on the Old Subie forum most of the time. Have to do a little sniffing around.

Thanks for walking me through the mounting bracket location, I was making it way harder than it needs to be and I think I've got that situated. I'm still having a problem with the exhaust where the pipes meet, though. I've got a brand new gasket in there but it's leaking in the same way that it did before I changed the gasket. I don't see an issue with the pipes like a crack or hole, so I'm thinking it has to be the connection. Does anyone know the correct size of the bolt/spring set that joins the flanges together or does it not matter as long as there is a secure connection?

Nice, always good when USMB members return.

Is there possibly anything in the ignition that I'm missing and I should check!?

Thank you. Pulling timing covers today. Initially checked inspection plugs and seemed intact but we shall see. Pulled covers.belt is tight and intact. How can you tell if it jumped time??? Also have been looking through posts trying to find info on the green code connectors, and seems others have posted also as only finding the one four pin green connector under the dash. Not in engine bay. No black or white connectors anywhere. Found: 1 green single wire connector(male) under dash. 3 blue single single wire connector (2 male and 1 female unhooked under dash. 1 green four pin connector female under dash. 1 white four pin connector (female) No green white or black on passenger side or under hood, or in back tail light areas, or proper connectors under dash on drivers side, which is currently torn apart trying to find this green 4 wire connectors mate.. Is this GL a ghost or a half model. Seems not to many of these out there. So anyone have any ideas on code connectors and their proper location? Anyone. Anyone?????

Thanks! Love Miles’ videos! I watched the Miles fox video first but it didn’t include the distributor section so just shared the Nice Guys one here for reference. Any chance I can get Miles to come take a look at my car? Haha

That video is OK, but kind of short on detail. Do a YouTube search for "Miles Fox EA82" and watch his timing belt video. He posted on this board for a long time, and his videos are good ones that have a lot of why you're doing what you're doing instead of just how to do it.

Thanks for the replies! I followed the procedure in this video for timing and double checked the holes are opposing on the two cams and align with the seams but can’t hurt to triple check. I also made sure to rotate the crank one full rotation after fitting the first belt. Checked the distributor alignment and that I have spark on all cylinders. Hoping it’s just my spoob mechanical skills and not something expensive 🤞 Will let y’all know what I find.

Hello Everyone! I haven't been here in forever. I was an active member from 2005 to about 2015. Life took me to different things, but funny how the waves of fate have brought me back again. Quick history: I first became a Subaru guy when, in 1992, I bought a 1980 GL wagon for $600. That little wagon got me all over the state of California. In the late 1990's. After that one died, and a 1987 normally aspired GL wagon coming in a out of my life, I got the car that would connect me to the USMB... Murphy, the 1987 $500 GL-10 Turbo Wagon! I was often found in the Old Gen section sharing all the wrenching adventures about Murph. I also had a Frankenstein 1982 BRAT, but Murphy was my love. I ended up parting ways with it in 2015, and forever wished I hadn't. Since then, I've gone through a couple more Subies; a 2009 Forester XT, and a 2003 BAJA. Both were sold last year to finance the restructuring of my business. I hated to part with the two vehicles, and hated to be without a Subaru, but the money from the sales got me through the difficult period. And now, I am in a position to get a new car... And I did! 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited OK. It's not "new", but it's new to me. It's a gem. 117k miles on it. Very clean. Gonna be posting some questions soon.

Good recs above. Presuming the clutch pedal hasn't disengaged the clutch with the pedal down, sounds like a leaking/blown slave or master cylinder. +1 on @nvu's checks for fluid, and great note by @forester2002s - don't overlook the obvious. Haven't had the slave or master go out on my stock 2010 WRX (yet), but have experienced this on other vehicles, as well as a snapped clutch cable on an older '84 GL Hatch. Definitely a bit of a confusion moment for a sec, then the ah cuhrap... Brake fluid-y jobs are one of my least favorite just 'cause I hate the stuff (anything involving grease requires executive override on procrastination to tackle that task, though nitrile glubs make it much nicer), but neither of these is too hard to replace, as I'm sure you're aware. Definite a nuisance. Worst part, imo, is the cleanup, and getting someone to pump the pedal to bleed.

Check the RHS timing belt. If that’s snapped you’ll have weird symptoms. The LHS timing belt spins the LHS cam, oil pump and the dizzy, while the right is only responsible for the RHS cam. Check that belt and get back to us. I’m out of ideas otherwise (for now). Cheers Bennie

Did you fit one cam belt, rotate the crank one rotation then fit the second belt? If not, this is your issue. I learned this the hard way. Your engine is probably running on one bank/side while the other does nothing. It will start with difficulty, and be completely gutless to drive. Cheers Bennie