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That's for the fairly rare Carter 1-barrel carb. You could get a matching Carter 1-barrel, or slap anything else on for a good horsepower gain. A 49-state Hitachi is the easiest manifold+carb swap, and parts are easier to get. EA81, not EA18, BTW. If you have access to TIG welding, you could probably weld on a generic Weber converter kit. Here's a Carter that might bolt directly up: https://www.ebay.com/itm/168145191200 Listing doesn't say what it's from, but it looks like the right mount, and even the correct subaru plugs, so it might be an exact match. But, as I said, you'll get better performance with a Hitachi intake swap, and much much much better parts availability.

Hi all! Just recently purchased a 1982 brat with a ea18 in it. It came with a 2bbl webber carb but it doesn't line up with the intake and I can't seem to find any other ea18 that has an intake that looks like mine. Trying to source a stock one as I think the intakes has been swapped but was hoping someone here would have some insight on what might have been on the car previously as I don't have the old carb. Bare with me this is my first sooby, I'm used to Honda and vw's haha. Thanks!

It's a really good engine. I've had 2 cars with the one in them. One word of caution: DO NOT forgo oil changes! Do them RELIGIOUSLY, FAITHFULLY and REGULARLY. That's the biggest killer of that engine because the engine oil also lubricates the timing components (ALL of them). If you let the oil get low or old, you're not taking good care of an engine that you really DON'T want to work on!

I've had two different cars with the EZ30 engine, a 1992 SVX and a 2001 LL Bean Outback. Man, I loved those cars!

That sounds like them, just a difference of terminology and jargon. They were the goto in Australia until supply dried up. I used them for racing and they never broke, just wore them all out. Shame NTN stopped making them.

Get the circuit schematic out. Load - antenna motor, Ground and Power. Was it happening before you changed the stereo? The connectors may be the same, but....

PplMy 1999 Legacy L 30th ann. has a weird problem that when the car is off, the antenna will extend and retract at seemingly random intervals. I have installed a Mcintosh stereo receiver, amp, and rear sub from a donor Subaru, and all the connectors match perfectly from the harness to stereo, stereo to amp, and amp to speakers. There was a weird problem that the speakers would play static while the car was off, draining the battery, but installing a relay on the pin 5 wire in the DIN cable fixed that. I have replaced the entire antenna assembly and it still happens. Online, there are suggestions to add a switch to the antenna rectractor to manually control it but I would prefer to have everything work as originally intended without extra hardware.

"The Red Beam" a name earned through it's demonstration of power, and striking appearance, especially when in motion. A 1999 Subaru Legacy L 30th Anniversary Edition at heart, with performance, longevity, and comfort based modifications. A 2.2L naturally aspirated engine with an automatic 4 speed transmission. I bought this car from a chop shop in Portland, Oregon, and basically the engine and the wheels worked. A short list of repairs since purchase/rescue: Driver window motor and glass replacement Head gasket done Coil pack replaced New plugs/wires Reman alternator New battery Starter Kill switch Mcintosh stereo receiver and amp/sub from a donor Subaru Leather door panels Exhaust pipe welded New muffler New radiator New starter Led light bars Radiator mounted wind turbine(in testing) Sound deadening from rear seat through trunk Hood and scoop Ac delete Windshield washer delete New tires All new fluids Custom LED tail light with Subaru light up pattern New headlights/bulbs Cooling system pressure release valve This car has the WEIRDEST problems, one after the other, and it has been a joy navigating everything and I want to start sharing some of the experiences.

We've been using the 187N front female CV axles for years now. They're a direct replacement for the front wheel drive Legacy. Same splines as the other female front axles (27 tooth outboard / 25 tooth female inboard I think) but slightly larger CV joints, shafts, and more plunge travel. It also has a spline stub adapter on it to fit the R160 in that picture. Sounds like 95AC CV axles are an EA thing, in that case no.

mmmmm......billet

Are your "big front CV axles" 25 spline? Otherwise known as 95AC joints?

B and I did a test assembly of the billet knuckle, big front axle, and fabricated links on the left rear of his Forester. I did get this pair case hardened which will hopefully keep the bore for the long bolt from wearing out as quickly. That did tighten up the holes a bit so I'm ordering a 14mm ball hone to open those up. Mostly went together fine, will have to clearance a few minor things we had on mine that we'd forgotten about. Brakes etc seemed to fit well. Axle length worked out. Inboard CV was close to fully compressed at full extension of the suspension but there was still some play. The left rear corner is normally the one that takes a shorter axle so we should be good on the other side. Biggest issue we hadn't anticipated was tire clearance to the rear bumper. This is mainly because we'd made the trailing links longer than stock. Usually easier to hammer/cut the body behind the tire rather than in front. But in this case it would also rub on the bumper. Which could be modified fairly easily. But since there's at least 1.5" clearance in front of the tire to the body throughout the travel, we're going to shorten his trailing arms an inch. One of the reasons we're doing this pictured below. Big front CV axle we use on left, stock rear axle on right. The boots were starting to leak so I repacked the CV joints and replaced the boots. Hopefully won't be on this car too much longer. We put the old suspension back on for now. Plan is to fully weld and paint all the links etc. Then sometime in April swap the rear diff and do the rear knuckle conversion.

What about taking a long drive, where everything gets hot and then trying to remove it. You mentioned trying to heat it up, but you would have to heat up all of the diff fluid as well. Just a thought.

I like that you found the issue but I don’t like the potential cost of sorting out the issue unless it’s the oil trick that Bushytails mentioned above.

All good mate! Like I said (somewhere), we didn’t get the SPFI over here in Australia. Any that are here are kits that were sent over from the states. I did think it odd that they didn’t run an O2 sensor but not knowing the system myself I could only go by what I was told by others. Thanks for the correction though. I hope having the O2 hooked up properly will sort out your fuel usage!

Hello Everyone, A while ago, I did a drain and fill on the front differential, everything went smooth. Going to do it now, the fill plug seems to be seized in place. The allen head stripped out, so I hammered in an extractor. The extractor stripped, so I drilled out a slightly larger hole and really hammered in a larger extractor. This extractor stuck, but I couldn't turn it. I put an impact on it, and it wouldn't turn. I heated the differential case and it wouldn't move. Sprayed some PB Blaster on it and let it soak, reheated, and it still won't move. I tried some of that bolt freeze stuff, and it still won't move. It's not the end of the world as you can shove a hose through the drain port and fill it until it runs out of the "full plug", but it's annoying at the least. Anyone have any suggestions?

I had an EA81 for a while where every couple months I had to add a bit of oil to the dist to keep it quiet...

It was distributor

Thanks. It's also solving the issue when I feather the gas pedal. I have a TPS, I'm going to change it. I hate throwing parts. Google AI: Subaru Loss of Power That Returns When Gas Pedal Is Feathered When a Subaru suddenly loses power and then recovers when you lightly press the gas pedal, it often points to an engine or fuel delivery issue that the ECU can detect and manage under certain conditions. Common causes and explanations: Fuel delivery or sensor issues: Even if the fuel pump and tank are new, problems with the fuel pressure regulator, injectors, or oxygen sensors can cause the ECU to limit power. If the pedal is feathered, the ECU may interpret it as a low-load condition and allow more fuel or throttle response Subaru Outback Forums+1. Oxygen sensor or exhaust system problems: A failing O2 sensor or a partially blocked catalytic converter can cause the ECU to enter a “limp” mode. Feathering the pedal can sometimes bypass or reduce the severity of the restriction, allowing partial power recovery Reddit. Vacuum or intake leaks: Unmetered air entering the intake can confuse the ECU’s load calculation, leading to sudden power loss. Feathering the pedal can temporarily mask the effect Reddit. Ignition system faults: Worn spark plugs, coil packs, or plug wires can cause misfires that the ECU compensates for by limiting power. Feathering the pedal may reduce the load enough for the ECU to allow more throttle Subaru Forester Owners Forum+1. Timing or mechanical issues: A timing belt jump, valve lift sensor fault, or internal engine problem can cause intermittent power loss. Feathering the pedal may allow the engine to run at a lower load where the fault is less critica

@el_freddo I regret to say that I gave you some misinformation. O2 sensors WERE standard equipment on SPFI models. The Cali-spec used a 3-pin connector and the federal emissions (all the other states) used a 1-pin connector. I got confused since I bought my GL with an exhaust system without an O2 sensor bung. My guess is that at some point someone put a carb exhaust on the car as these didn't always have O2 sensors. Now I need to get an O2 sensor on my car. Which means welding up a new cat and splicing the wiring in that was removed. Hopefully now the car will get out of open-loop and I'll actually see above 22mpg.

I haven't done a voltage drop yet. thanks for the tip! Probably would have saved some time if I'm understanding the idea correctly as it doesn't seem like the switch is corroded. Need to find the ground for the turn signal switch I guess. I did get down to the turn signal switch and manually bridging (on a clean surface) the little circuit gaps that the slide mechanism closes when flipping the turn signal stalk does nothing. However, grounding the horn peg to the steering bolt does sound the horn. The stop lamp bulb is still on. Here are a few wiring diagrams I found. I'm not good at reading these things :-( . I am using a test light btw. the green/red, green and green/yellow wires with the little gaps between are what I'm talking about bridging. I'm really hoping that wiring diagram might lead to a solution. Looking at it as someone who doesn't really know what they're looking at.. it seems important that the stop lamp warning light is on but the brake lights all work perfectly fine and only the hazards/turn signals are a problem. I'm just guessing though. I welcome any advice!

Have you done a voltage drop yet? If you already know this then feel free to ignore Find the ground for these switches and put one lead on the battery ground and one at whatever point these are grounded. Meter should read zero or close to it. If it is higher than .5 V (rule of thumb) than your problem is in the ground termination. If it is zero, than do the same thing but from the ground side of the switch to the ground termination. Repeat on the positive side as well. If you suspect the switch is corroded as you say, than a voltage drop across the switch with the switch closed will tell you for sure. A non corroded switch should have zero voltage (potential difference) across the switch when it is closed, and ~12 when it is open.

Awesome thanks!

A wiring diagram would be extremely helpful. You tested the fuses and fusible links, not just by looking at them correct? You used a meter or test light?