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This is tough because bleeding is relatively simple but has some very particular details sometimes and you're working on an unknown vehicle...!!??!?? More than likely there's still air in the system. Take note - everyone was saying bleed the brakes - and you were guessing master cylinder multiple times. You reassessed your bleeding and got more air out - so those suggestions were spot on. I'm not sure where the line is drawn between "you need to bleed more" and "it's probably something else" - that's a very gray area - but it's often the case more bleeding or proper bleeding or a better bleeding set up (don't run out of fluid in MC, screws not leaking, hose/pump/whatever make shift system is being used working well)....

Just a thought: I installed that part from underneath the car. May be easier from the topside.

Yes. Drop the exhaust and loosen both motor mounts. I only did the one on the driver's side and that damaged the other side when I raised the engine. New mount runs around $60.

Replaced that part a few months ago and in my opinion, impossible to do without raising the engine. Let us know how long it took to reinstall that small bolt rear of engine.

Funny. We have never seen that here. I would lay odds that no dealer has either. No rust! GD

they rust out all the time, very common part to fail on those. they're like $50.

great ideas, thanks I will try and give answers to all the reply's, I bought the car with bad HG, so I do not know how bad it was overheated. I used felpro gaskets, which have a good rep outside the subaru world. (I have since learned that many parts with good reputations in the other markets do not have a good reputation in the subaru world) I did have one small overheat issue after the head gaskets that caused me to do the compression test and the radiator pressure test. found compression good and even. Found a coolant leak at a loose clamp. And no loss of coolant after that. Then the Radiator broke, and was changed with a new one, and a new cap. (replaced the cap when I did the HG) I will try and find the old one, or get a different brand tomorrow. I do have the hose zip tied to the radiator. and I will check, I do not think it is cut at an angle in the bottom of the tank. I will fix that.

take another look at your receipt and see if there's a longer description of work done or parts used.

Which side did you put the springs bolts on?

Those are the correct 8 bolts for manifold hold down. After you remove the intercooler I think you will find a few more things to disconnect. take photos of each step, if you don't need them later DELETE But if you need them now you'll be glad to have them.

That hole does not lead to the throttle body, and the throttle body doesn't require cleaning. That's a wallet flushing technique used by the dealer. It is not a recommended maintenance procedure from Subaru nor is it at all useful unless the throttle body is exhibiting abnormal behavior such as slow response, idle hunting, etc. No such procedure is outlined by the service manual. There is a Subaru of America snake oil sold by the dealers that is an upper engine cleaner but it's designed to clean the intake valves not the throttle body. Part number SA459..... You can download the service manual and go through the procedure but it's pretty straightforward - disconnect everything and pull the manifold. You want to pull the whole thing do not attempt to pull only the top off. GD

That's a very nice looking piece of kit. I bet the price is "just as good" too. I'm guessing it's got a build in intercooler? Cheers Bennie

well, belt needs to come off, leave the crank where it is, but re-position the cams , re-install the belt. on my WRX, the DS intake cam REALLY wants to flip - it can be tricky and some folks have tried to use document clips and visegrip pliers, etc. to keep things in line. there are several videos that give some pointers, here's one;

Brand new. 2017 2.5i Limited with Eyesight.