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So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.

https://swayaway.com/

partial update. put thrans x in transmission fluid. The delayed engagement went away really quickly. As you can see in the picture of the brake rotor above. The caliper isn't engaging with the rotor. I pulled the caliper, the slide pins are moving easily. the caliper piston shoved back into the caliper. The rotors are wore out I believe. They are high along the edge of the rotor. you can really feel the wear with your hands, where the pad meets. Anyway.. The pads also seemed jammed in the hardware/bracket and don't move due to the high edge of the rotor. At least it seems that way. So im getting new rotors and pads and hardware.

Looks like it would take a standard cap for either a 90's era Subaru or Honda or Possibly Toyota. Really hard to tell and basically pointless because..... It's plastic and obviously quite old so it's garbage. Useful lifespan on plastic radiator tanks is 8-10 years. Hit up a radiator shop and have one built to those dimensions from aluminium. Problem solved. Have the inlet and outlet moved so you can use some off-the-shelf Subaru hoses instead of that corrugated disaster it's got going on. Sadly that is the absolute worst engine Subaru ever made, and a flapper-MAF version at that. Extremely distasteful. That thing looks like a great way to look awesome while being broken down with a cracked head in a cloud of steam. Break out the bathing suits and you can film hot bodies covered in glycol steam on the side of the road with the "trunk" up pouring Fiji water down it's fill hole. Point is - you DO NOT want to overheat that abortion. In any case plan for an engine swap to something newer. GD

I have the relay and it's loom, it's just not hooked up to the pump. I'll hook up the relay and see what happens.

Wow that's a list of replaced parts. Seems the expensive way to do it I'd be looking at the temp sensor. Fans running all the time is an indicator that this is dead. It could be on the way out... IACV is another on to checkout and at least clean up. Cheers Bennie

Also check the waterpump for a leaking shaft seal. its odd for a HG in the ea82 to externally leak coolant. Cheers Bennie

did you remove the upper hose and pour coolant into the hose to fill the block? seems to help when I had this issue