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So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.

Tools: 8-19mm socket (1/2 inch drive) and spanner set 22mm socket (1/2 inch drive) for crank pulley bolt 36mm socket and breaker bar - 3/4 inch drive for Front CVs mallet range river bottle jack and handle Pin punch Assorted drill bits and a "converted" cordless drill to run off the battery Ammo box of tools such as pliers, CV band tool, spare CV bands, screwdrivers, shifters etc Spares: Fan belts for the engine you run. For the EJ I've got the shorter belt to run just the alternator if my PS pump shags out I've got a spare ECU that'll be padded and vacuum sealed as a spare to carry. Air filter gear oil engine oil (litre it two) spare rear shock/struts radiator hoses I need to add cam belt kit to this as well used ball joints, tie rod and rack end. Front and rear shafts Thats about it from memory. Cheers Bennie

Check engine light should illuminate when the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. If you don't see that there's an issue with the check engine light. Cheers Bennie

Pretty sure you gotta lift the motor but I don’t have every model and year memorized. Some day fly out or ship and buy a rust free Subaru. Glorious

Thanks! That’s a good idea

1. did you resurface the heads? yep, verify cap, overflow hose, and no coolant leaks, and the fans are both coming on and there's no debris in front of the radiator/a/c condenser, and burp all the air out of the system. it may be unlikely due to no overheating but it's not completely ruled out that it's not a headgasket. replaced gaskets have varying failure modes over the OEM factory installed ones which pretty much all did the exact same thing. previously overheated EJ25D's are ominous. the first symptom of factory installed EJ25D headagasket failure is almost always instantaneous, inconsolable, and intermittent overheating. this lends itself to people not seeing it, limping them around, hoping that driving slow/turning heat on helps them get home (it doesn't), filling it helps them get home (it doesn't), then it goes away and they think it was the topping off or new cap or new hose or new radiator or new tstat that caused it because it went away right after...but really it was just because they're always intermittent. then people drive them a few more weeks and it happens again. wash-rinse-repeat and you've got an engine that is more prone than any other, even other EJ25's, to multiple overheats and limping home. hopefully this one is fine, but it won't be ruled out until you confirm causation elsewhere.

Those are the correct 8 bolts for manifold hold down. After you remove the intercooler I think you will find a few more things to disconnect. take photos of each step, if you don't need them later DELETE But if you need them now you'll be glad to have them.